92 Marathon takes a while to begin moving

[Brownv1]

I was just given a 92 marathon that I had to repair the frame on but the cart ran when I got it. After putting it back together it will not run right away. If I leave the key on for some time then it runs. If I turn the key off for more than 5 minutes it doesn't spin the tires right away. My first thought was bad controller but can they work sometimes and not others? Batteries are new and holding at about 38v. Most cables are new but if they are old I have replaced the terminals. POT is working(0-4.4k, only4.4k because I haven't adj the linkage). Solenoid work properly every time. Controller read correctly on b- and m-. Don't have a maintenance manual so these are all the tests I know. Thanks for the help.

[yamahaguy97]

hmm hard to tell but something seems intermittent. Also being at only 38v with new batteries seems weird they should be closer to 40v. No, controllers are typically all or nothing

[yurtle]

Batteries should read 38.22 volts when fully charged, so that's not the problem.

You can find the Owners, Parts, and Repair manuals in the Stickies. You can also find wiring diagrams there. There's also a trouble shooting guide. Finally, there's a throttle trouble shooting guide.

Even if you can't find the exact year, generally close enough is good enough.

Since the solenoid always clicks, you can eliminate all small wires, with the exception of the Pot (potentiometer) wires.

What remains are batteries, FNR, controller, motor, and all cables.

I'm assuming this is a series cart?

If so, the controller isn't powered up by simply turning on the key. Does it always have to have the key on "a while" before it goes?

If it's a series, I'm lost, and would look for something loose. I'd start with the key switch, as that's the only thing you are moving, besides the throttle microswitch.

https://shop.ezgo.com/common/templat...ialnumber.aspx

and

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...en-system.html

will tell you what you have.

[Brownv1]

Thx for the responses. The key/switch isn't the problem I don't have the key so it's just "hot wired". It doesn't seem to ever start right away but gets better the longer I run it. Yes it is a series cart. Don't think it's the FNR I pulled it apart and cleaned everything. I'll recheck continuity in the FNR and recheck all my connections.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Brownv1

The key/switch isn't the problem I don't have the key so it's just "hot wired".

Originally Posted by Brownv1

If I leave the key on for some time then it runs. If I turn the key off for more than 5 minutes it doesn't spin the tires right away.

???

[Brownv1]

I've got an alligator clip one the "key" wire so when I say I turn the key on/off I'm clipping/un clipping the alligator clip to the battery post

[yurtle]

Again, nothing happens when you turn on your alligator clip key. Until ALL switches are closed on a series cart - reed switch, MS2, KS1 (your alligator clip), and MS3, nothing happens.

Unless MS3 is always closed -bad or needs adjustment - the controller never gets power until you hit the "gas".

[Brownv1]

Thought I would give an update. The controller B-/M- test seems to work intermittently. Solenoid ALWAYS engages properly. I have taken the FNR out of the equation by bolting the wires in the forward position. The POT reads 0-5.6k when unplugged. When I plug the POT I don't get good readings. Should it read the same as unplugged? Finally; even though I replaced all the cable ends when I pulled one apart it had corrosion the whole way through. Not sure if this could be the culprit but either way I will be replacing every wire.