Will this Oil work in the Differential?

[pjmia96]

Royal Purple 01300 Gear Oil Max-Gear Synthetic 75W90.

Royal Purple 01300 Max Gear 75W-90 High Performance Synthetic Automotive Gear Oil - 1 Quart : Amazon.com : Automotive

Royal Purple 01300 Max Gear 75W-90 High Performance Synthetic Automotive Gear Oil - 1 Quart : Amazon.com : Automotive

I have a 1991 EZGO Marathon Electric and I wanted to know if it was a good idea to use this Oil in the differential. I have really hot summers in really cold winters. The regular 30 weight Oil that I have in the differential does not work too well in the winter, In the winter it makes the gears grind but works fine in the summer. I have been hearing many good things about Royal Purple lately and I figured I would give their oil a try.

Will This Work?

Thanks,

Matt

[Swan]

I would say yes , but you can get 75w-90 gear oil at any auto parts or even a walmart

[Sir Nuke]

YES It will work great.....and they even carry that gear oil at my local O'Reilly's....

[JohnnieB]

Hi PJ - Where you been hiding?.

I prefer Lucas oil products, but other than that, it should work okay.

[pjmia96]

Wow, Good news for once.

Currently I am changing 2 of the motor cables because the ends are ready to come off, causing resistance and because there is resistance the motor is getting hot quick. I also discovered that the drivers side rear wheel was hard to move by hand because the brake was stuck. I took the drivers side wheel off and I managed to get the wheel hub half way off, I don't have a hub puller. With the hub half way off I drenched the inside off the hub with brake cleaner, and then WD-40. All I can say is WOW! Now the wheel is incredibly easy to turn, now both of the rear wheels spin with ease. I noticed when I put the wheel back together and went for a quick spin the cart seemed to move faster and the brakes work great, But I noticed that the wheel that I fixed seemed a tiny bit wobbly.

Could that be caused by not making the castle nut over the wheel hub tight enough? I made it tight with the impact wrench but maybe not tight enough?

I know the rule for those golf carts is the wheel with the least resistance is the one that spins, the brake being stuck explains why for the last few months I have not been able to get the stuck wheel to spin. I just found out it was stuck today. Now the wheel that I freed up is the one that spins instead of the other one. Now when I hold one wheel the other one spins, that was not happening before.

Anyway back to my question, What do you guys think is causing the wheel to zigzag slightly? When the cart is off the ground and I try to shake it it doesn't move, but when driving it shakes. The wheel is tight to the hub but I think the question is "is the hub tight enough to the axle"?

Yes Johnnie B, I have come back out of the cave and i'm on this website daily now because it is Summer Vacation...(Praise The Lord). So you can expect more of me.

Thanks Guys, by the time i'm done asking questions on this forum I could have written the Bible over a few times.

Matt

[JohnnieB]

I've haven't messed with the rear hubs, axles and bearings on my cart (yet), so I'm just speculating, but if you cannot wiggle the wheel assembly at all from top to bottom or side to side, I would think the splines between the hub and axle are tight enough and the bearings are good. That would mean the axle is bent or the hub is deformed.

Locate and mark the exact center of the axle shaft and spin the wheel. The dot shouldn't move.
Or, hold something close to the threads on the axle shaft and spin wheel. The gap should stay the same as shaft rotates.

If the axle is spinning true, either the wheel (rim) or brake drum could be deformed. You can hold something close to them and watch the gap also.

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Whatever the source of the wiggle is, there is also the possibility it was there before you worked on the brake drum and you never noticed it before.

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Hope this helps.

[pjmia96]

I never happened to look until the other day, But the thing that I completely failed to realize is this wheel only has 2 lug nuts holding it on because the other 2 are stripped. I'm going to pick up a new drum and brakes and the new drum will take care of that problem. Other than that small issue this cart has been running fantastic. Does a great job getting though the long and muddy fields! Now that I freed the brake up it runs faster.....I like faster. The next time we get battery's in a few years I'm thinking of converting the cart to 48Volt. I will need a 48v Solenoid, A HD F&R Cam, I have a Yamaha G22 48V charger that I will change the cable end on to fit the marathon, and I should be able to use the stock 36V Motor. I have an Altrax NPX 4834 Controller that can support 36 or 48 Volts. That is a project for the future, for now we will stick with 36V.

Thanks,


Matt

[JohnnieB]

Sounds like a plan.

In the interim, let it be known that a Super-Duty (400A/1000A) solenoid (which will work at 36V, 42V or 48V) would be a nice birthday or Christmas gift.

[pjmia96]

Well then it looks like I will be having Christmas in July. By the way the Oil came in today and I will be putting it in tomorrow. Should I fill it to the top of the drain plug?

Thanks,

Matt

[JohnnieB]

Fill it until it starts to leak out of drain hole.