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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 03-05-2016, 03:24 PM   #1
Salt1972
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Default EZGO Doesn't Go

I'm working my way through the troubleshooting diagnostics provided in the sticky. I'm reasonably handy/mechanical, but have zero golf cart experience. Maybe you guys can help? My answers are in bold red throughout the list. Thanks in advance.


Connect (-) probe of meter on Battery Pack Negative (-) post. (This probe will on the post for the rest of the testing procedures) Connect (+) probe to the Battery Pack Positive (+) battery post.

37.8/9

NOW, Key switch ON, gear selector in FORWARD, Place the (+) probe on the battery side of the solenoid's large post (If the reading is below battery voltage, check all wiring and terminals).

37.8/9

Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage. If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty. If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

37.8/9 - BUT... I removed the solenoid and tested on the bench by measuring ohms across the large terminals. No reading vs. .04 when small terminals were energized.

ITS - INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR

With the key switch ON - Forward direction selected - Push the Accelerator pedal just enough to activate the solenoid.

I do not hear the solenoid activate...

Install a "jumper wire" between the batteries BL+ post and the solenoid post with red wires attached.
AT THE SIX PIN CONNECTOR OF THE CONTROLLER
Place the (+) probe on the red wire terminal of the connector.
If battery voltage is not present, the red wire between the solenoid and the six pin connector is faulty.

Battery Voltage - Check 37.8/9V

Place the (+) probe on the black wire terminal of the connector.
The reading should be slightly above 14 volts but than 15 volts. If the voltage is not correct, the Throttle Sensor MAY be faulty.

There is no voltage there.

Separate the 6 pin connector (only 4 are used) between the pedal box and the controller that's located on the passenger's side of the battery compartment.
If the voltage goes to 14 volts, the sensor is faulty.
If the voltage remains below 14 volts, the controller is faulty.

There wasn't voltage there in the first place. Unplugging the connector made no difference.

RECONNECT the 6 pin connector.
Place the (+) probe on the white wire terminal of the six pin connector.
Depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45 - 0.53 volts just as the micro-switch is activated.

No voltage.

Depress the pedal slowly to full throttle.
As you depress the peddle the reading should move smoothly to about 1.5 volts.
If the reading is incorrect, The Throttle Sensor is defective.

No voltage.

REMOVE THE JUMPER WIRE AND (-) PROBE
CHECKING CONTROLLER OUTPUT Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts.

What is the "M-" terminal?

Slowly depress accelerator pedal.
The reading should show the voltage increasing to battery voltage when fully depressed. If the voltage is at or near battery voltage and the motor is not turning, then the problem lies in either the forward/reverse switch, the wiring, or the motor.
If the voltage increases by a few volts and then stops changing while the pedal is being depressed, remove the orange wire at the "Reverse Micro switch".
If the voltage is not at or near battery voltage, replace the controller.
If battery voltage is present, the problem lies in the reverse circuit.
Re-connect the orange wire.


What's next? For what it's worth the reverse tone no longer works. This failed while I was going very slowly (~3MPH) up a small hill.
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Old 03-05-2016, 03:41 PM   #2
cgtech
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Default Re: EZGO Doesn't Go

Well, according to when your results diverted from the expected values, you need a new controller. I think this may be a situation where you knew this, but kept following the chart because you didnt care much for the answer?
That step is trying to tell you that a shorted sensor may draw the circuit down to zero, and unplugging the possible shorted sensor would allow the circuit to rise back to the expected value (if the controller was trying to supply the expected value).
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:12 PM   #3
Salt1972
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Default Re: EZGO Doesn't Go

CGtech-

Thanks for the response. I'm not sure I knew the controller was bad from those results. While that's less than ideal, I'd rather know that's the issue before ordering expensive parts and discovering they did not solve the issue.

Is controller failure common? Under what conditions? Are there any further tests that confirm its demise?

What controller do I need and where would be the best place to source it?

Thanks for your help.

M
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Old 04-03-2016, 02:25 PM   #4
scottyb
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Default Re: EZGO Doesn't Go

I think the control is bad also but, you can go to the trouble shooting on my website here > http://www.cartsunlimited.net/troubleshooting-.html

And there is a test for controller output. If you want to bypass the solenoid (put both big solenoid cables on the same big solenoid post) you can test output.
That would be pretty definitive.
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:01 PM   #5
Salt1972
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Default Re: EZGO Doesn't Go

OK. So my controller is bad. What would make a controller fail? I was riding alongside my neighbor at walking speed and it stopped. I can't imagine that was taxing or abusive treatment?

My concern is that if I order a new controller, what's to say that whatever caused this one to fail immediately trashes the new one?

Where is the best source to order a controller? I don't need speed or performance upgrades. I just want it to work.

Thank you very much for your help and guidance.
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:40 AM   #6
270Handiman
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Default Re: EZGO Doesn't Go

What make, model, and year is your cart?
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:22 PM   #7
mgray70
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
I think the control is bad also but, you can go to the trouble shooting on my website here > http://www.cartsunlimited.net/troubleshooting-.html

And there is a test for controller output. If you want to bypass the solenoid (put both big solenoid cables on the same big solenoid post) you can test output.
That would be pretty definitive.

The link above is the best place to get a new controller. He'll help you get the one that best fits your application. As far as what caused it to blow? Could have been a number of things over time. You mentioned that you were creeping slow, that is when the controller is pulling the most amps. More so than full throttle. Mine did the same thing, got weaker over time and finally fried one day as I was loading it on a trailer.
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