cart won't run

[JohnnieB]

With the Key ON, Run/Tow in RUN and F/R in either F or R, the solenoid clicks when you push the pedal, correct?

If so, the problem in is the high current circuit, which consists of the controller, the motor, the solenoid''s high current contacts, the high current cables and the battery pack.

Jack rear tires off ground am place on jackstands so the half ton cart doesn't take off expectantly and run over someone or something.

Place your voltmeter's negative test lead on the controller's B- terminal and the positive test lead on the M- terminal. (IIRC: M- is label A1 on PDS controllers) Then press the pedal just far enough to make the solenoid click.

You should read FULL battery pack voltage.

If you don't the problem is either the Solenoid's high current contacts, the A1 or A2 cables going to the motor, or the motor.

If you do get full pack voltage, press the pedal slowly to the floor and the voltage should decrease smoothly to zero volts, or very near zero.

If it doesn't decrease, the problem is either the controller or the throttle input to the controller.

ITS (Throttle) test attached. If the throttle checks out okay, the controller is bad.

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If the controller is bad, replace it with an Alltrax XCT48400PDS (or larger) and you'll get about 24 MPH with a 36V battery pack and stock PDS motor.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/alltra...-controls.html

[g.mussell]

Thanks Johnny, the voltage did not decrease as the pedal was pressed the I TS flowchart takes me to bad controller so I'm assuming my controller is bad. The controller in there is only about six weeks old so I assumed it was good but maybe I bought a bad one
Thanks
George

[g.mussell]

I'm not sure if this tells us anything, but before I ran your test I was trying to just re-run the diagnostic test and all I got was the four beeps for freedom mode. When I began your test soon as I pressed Excelerator it gave me 3–4 error code

George

[JohnnieB]

3-4 error code is open field winding.

Pull the F1 & F2 wires off the controller and measure between the disconnected wires with an Ohmmeter.

You should get about 5Ω or so. If not check the continuity of the F1 & F2 wires to the F1 & F2 studs on the motor and then between the F1 & F2 studs.

Bad field windings could cause the symptoms you have.

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I'll be gone for a a few hours, but probably will check later tonight.

[g.mussell]

1 ohm between wires ,o on each wire , 1 ohm between the studs on the motor

Thanks george

[sonnysmith]

Johnnie
Might need to look at the wires. F1 F2 for wear around battery box.

[g.mussell]

I got chased inside by a rain storm, but they looked ok.

George

[JohnnieB]

Attached is picture of what Sonny is referring to.

You have low Ohms between the F1 and F2 wires, so the 3-4 beep code is a false error. Something a bad controller might do.

You get pack voltage between B- and M- when you should, but it doesn't decrease when the pedal is pushed to the floor and the ITS voltages are good, so the controller is bad.

[g.mussell]

Thanks, I was afraid of that. I called the place I bought it from, and they think I should be under ware tee.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Thanks
George

[cgtech]

Under wear tea, i dont suggest it! Stupid auto correct.