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Old 10-09-2016, 07:53 PM   #21
Jwc1621
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Default Re: 04 TXT PDS Build Thread

Matt,
I think I was $450 with the strut kit, sorry for the long delay in replying, work sure does cut into your golf cart project!
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Old 10-09-2016, 07:59 PM   #22
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Default Re: 04 TXT PDS Build Thread

The labor of love continues! I had some difficulty posting some pictures two weekends ago so here its goes again! These pictures are from after the POR15 application, hope you guys enjoy the floral drip cloth
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Old 10-09-2016, 08:23 PM   #23
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Default Re: 04 TXT PDS Build Thread

Now that I figured out how to get those pictures to post, here are the pics from this weekend! As I get ready to re-wire, I have a few questions. I bought a new heat sink for my Alltrax XCT 400.
- Does anyone know what size self tapping screw/bolt secures the heat sink to the splash pan?
- I had to purchase a new tie rod assembly, the existing was toast, however the kit did not come with nuts. Anyone know what size lock nut goes on the the tie rod ends?
- Has anyone purchased the voltage reducer package from ScottyB? What location did you mount the reducer? I'm converting to 42 volts so I cannot use the driver side splash pan.

FINALLY, can a few of you take a look at my controller, solenoid pic and give me some feedback if it looks right?
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Old 10-09-2016, 09:26 PM   #24
orangeman6
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Default Re: 04 TXT PDS Build Thread

Jwc, looks like you're progressing nicely. I've got a frame up going as well, and got everything running again this weekend. New 2g cables, super duty reverse contact and voltage reducer from Scotty B.

I ended up putting my reducer on the driver's side splash guard. I, too, am considering a 42v upgrade but am pretty sure I still have plenty of room for the additional battery. The reducer is about 1 3/4 thick and maybe 6 1/2 long, if I remember correctly. I'm not putting the horn back in but you could easily move that. I also thought about installing it in the space behind the dash, but want to be able to access it. I've considered cutting that space out from underneath and hinging and latching it, so you can get to it without removing the cowl, but think I'll leave it for now and keep an eye on how mucked up it gets in the current spot. I wired mine with a relay and a switch so I can shut it off if the carts going to be sitting for a while.

Let me know what you come up with. Unfortunately, I'm still waiting on my new body to arrive, so I've got time to change things.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ectronics.html

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...txt-rehab.html
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:00 PM   #25
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Default Re: 04 TXT PDS Build Thread

Today I was able to get all of the wiring ran that I will need for all of my accessories as well as wiring the controller, motor, and Scotty B Voltage reducer. After reading through the instructions on the voltage reducer, which state it has to be mounted to a metal surface due to heat, I only had one location where I could mount it. Since I am going to 42 volts it is placed on the passenger side splash pan with the controller. I know there looks like a lot of positive wires running under the drivers side, but I wired it for the future in case I have any issues. Below is the list of accessories that will be going on the cart, along with a picture of the switch panel!

Brush Guard mounted LED Light Bar
Bazooka Party Bar
LED UnderBody Lights
LED Strip Lighting in Roof
2 Port LED Charging Port
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Old 10-12-2016, 06:26 AM   #26
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Default Re: 04 TXT PDS Build Thread

sasquach lights-lol!!!
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:51 AM   #27
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Default Re: 04 TXT PDS Build Thread

You know it!!!
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Old 10-12-2016, 09:05 AM   #28
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Default Re: 04 TXT PDS Build Thread

You are doing a beautiful restoration. My observation about the solenoid position is this. When the coil is energized the contact is drawn toward the large terminal end of the solenoid. When the coil is de-energized a spring dis-engages the contacts and pulls the contact bar away from the terminal contacts.
When mounted inverted the springs have to disengage the contact against gravity. This makes the job of dis-engaging harder. See generic drawing below
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Old 10-13-2016, 09:10 PM   #29
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Default Re: 04 TXT PDS Build Thread

Well today my (7) T105 Trojans arrived so it was time to see what the last month of work would yield. To my surprise (and pleasure) everything thing started up perfect and all of my voltage is dead on. Thanks to ScottyB for the key switch help as well as the solenoid help. I ended up flipping the solenoid and wiring the green 12v from the voltage reducer through the switch. I won't lie, it is pretty slick. Being that this was my first cart, I was ready for some sort of issues but the toughest part of the whole project has been removing all of the rivets during the tear down!

About the rivets:
Does anyone have a schematic of what pieces go back on in what order? My thoughts are this-
1) Metal floor pan, but I just read to leave off the middle three rivets to attaché the body with. Is that correct?
2) Fire wall

Where Im confused is how does the dash and floor mat interact along with the rocker panels and the body. Anybody got any solid advice????
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Old 10-13-2016, 11:29 PM   #30
orangeman6
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Default Re: 04 TXT PDS Build Thread

Jwc, nice job getting the wheels spinning again.

Maybe you have this already, but below is a link to some manuals. I couldn't remember what year your cart is, but there's a few options on that website. There's an exploded view in the body section. It's not completely apparent, but maybe it helps a bit.

I'm dead in the water still waiting on my body, so haven't gone through putting it back together yet, but I've got my dash and mat laying in there as a mock up, and I've put the pan and firewall back in. Here's what I remember:

Floor pan: I reattached mine along with the firewall. You're correct in leaving the rivets out where the rear body sits on top of the pan. There are 5 of them on mine that run along there. I put all the others in to hold it in place.

Firewall: there's 5 along the bottom where it meets the pan. 2 more up each side. All of the other holes in the firewall, on mine anyway, are for attaching the dash.

The dash goes in next. There's a pic below of a piece of rubber stripping. On mine there was one of these on each leg of the dash. They were riveted in on top of the dash legs. My mat tucked into these.

Not sure if you had the same issue, but I mistakenly assumed the rivet package included what you needed for the pan and firewall. You'll have to get those on your own, if you haven't already. Also, I didn't want to spend $45 on the hf pneumatic riveter, figuring I'd probably never use one again. I bought the two handled one, and it worked great, but I couldn't get it into a couple of places. I ended up buying a small one as well. I'm not positive but I think the pneumatic one would have worked for all.

Good luck, post some pics and anything you learn when putting it back together. I'll be the guy sitting in the window waiting for my body to arrive.

http://mikes-golf-carts.com/golf-car...s-pdf-offline/
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