RXV fault and rebuild

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by mcalan

I agree with your thoughts Bob,
If the cost of a harness is anything like the hundreds of dollars that EZGO put on there site for other types, It wont be me buying one!
Looks likely that I will be following your posts and doing the conversion.
The only bug now is trying to borrow, blag or buy a curtis hand held unit
(that's assuming I realy need one ) But I would like to be able to program the cart to get 19 mph out of her.
Decisions ,Decisions?.

Thanks again
mcalan

I've seen prices of up to $1700 for one of those E-Z-GO harness assemblies. You can buy the connector for like $10 US and most of the wires will just transfer over to the new pin numbers. There are just a few wires that require splicing or extending. You will have to install a 4 pin Curtis programming connector on the harness since the Danaher controller does not use one. The source and pinout for that is in the Programming Curtis Controller thread

There's a fellow in the UK that has programming capabilities. Here is one of his posts...

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1319329

Maybe you can contact him for assistance. Or you might want to read that thread and learn how to set up your own Curtis programming station. It's less expensive than buying a handheld.

Bob

[mcalan]

Good morning,

I am getting very close to finishing the conversion from the Danaher controller to the Curtis 1206 unit recently supplied to my 2009 RXV.

Just to be absolutely sure I am wiring this up correctly, has anyone got some images of the installation I could browse over ?

I just would be kicking myself if I "blew" this thing at the last moment.
Many thanks if you can help.

Mcalan

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by mcalan

Good morning,

I am getting very close to finishing the conversion from the Danaher controller to the Curtis 1206 unit recently supplied to my 2009 RXV.

Just to be absolutely sure I am wiring this up correctly, has anyone got some images of the installation I could browse over ?

I just would be kicking myself if I "blew" this thing at the last moment.
Many thanks if you can help.

Mcalan

If you look up my prior posts on Danaher to Curtis conversions, I'm pretty sure that I posted the wiring diagrams of both the Danaher and the Curtis harnesses. I also gave pin by pin transfer instructions and the wires to be cut and spliced. After you do this conversion, use an ohmmeter to trace each wire from the 35 pin controller connector to verify that each goes to the correct location (destination harness connector and pin) before going to the next pin. I recently posted a few photos of the splices in a Danaher to Curtis converted harness. I would post again but I'm on the road, on the way back from picking up another cart in LA. This cart will be another Danaher to Curtis conversion project, so I'll photo-document the conversion as I do it.

Bob

[mcalan]

Hi Bob,and all.

I did look at the your photos thanks. The atx loom for the programmer hook has arrived, unfortunately with no numbers on the plug to identify wire position as per your pin out description.

I wonder when you have a moment when you get back home if you could advise which is pin 1/2/3/4 etc looking from the front of the plug?
Cheers

[usgicollector]

mcalan I think this is what you want, but let BobBoyce approve it first.

Molex pin 1 RXD
Molex pin 2 Ground
Molex pin 3 TXD
Molex pin 4 +15v

If you look close at the molex plug it is numbered.
http://www.newark.com/molex/39-01-30...rfnonsku=false

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by usgicollector

mcalan I think this is what you want, but let BobBoyce approve it first.

Molex pin 1 RXD
Molex pin 2 Ground
Molex pin 3 TXD
Molex pin 4 +15v

If you look close at the molex plug it is numbered.
http://www.newark.com/molex/39-01-30...rfnonsku=false

Thank you usgicollector

Here is a bit more info and a photo with pin locations marked. The tab location on the Molex Mini-Fit Jr is pointed out. The photo is looking at the open tip of that connector.

Molex pin 1 RXD connects to 35pin connector pin 29
Molex pin 2 Ground connects to 35pin connector pin 34
Molex pin 3 TXD connects to 35pin connector pin 28
Molex pin 4 +15v connects to 35pin connector pin 25

I hope this helps

[mcalan]

Thanks (Both) for the picture and numbering, I can figure this out now.
I have everything else completed on the wiring front thanks to all the very helpful advice.
Now the back axle is in the air on jacks I have just powered it up.

So far it is still not running? I have selected switch to "tow" and key on and the back motor turns real slow (wheels going backwards) when I depress the brake pedal on and of ???
I am going to go through all the testing tomorrow and hopefully get the hand held hooked up to see what is going on here???

As you might gather, I may very well be back online for more help again soon!

Thanks again , Mcalan

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by mcalan

Thanks (Both) for the picture and numbering, I can figure this out now.
I have everything else completed on the wiring front thanks to all the very helpful advice.
Now the back axle is in the air on jacks I have just powered it up.

So far it is still not running? I have selected switch to "tow" and key on and the back motor turns real slow (wheels going backwards) when I depress the brake pedal on and of ???
I am going to go through all the testing tomorrow and hopefully get the hand held hooked up to see what is going on here???

As you might gather, I may very well be back online for more help again soon!

Thanks again , Mcalan

Check that you have the correct plugs on the throttle and brake encoders and switches. On the early RXVs, they used identical connectors and it was possible to get them reversed. The throttle encoder connector has orange, black, and yellow. The brake encoder connector has orange, black and light green. The throttle switch connector has red and light blue. The brake switch connector has red and white.

Also, you may have 2 of the 3 motor wires swapped. Yellow is V, Green is U, and Blue is W. if any 2 are swapped, that will reverse the direction of the motor. If the motor still turns backwards after you check the pedal wiring and get that working, then pick any 2 motor wires and swap them at the controller to reverse the direction.

Bob

[mcalan]

Hi Bob/Usgicollector and all,

I started this morning checking the wiring hook ups as you mentioned on the last post Bob,( and all was correct).

I powered up the buggy and after a few seconds I managed to get reverse and forward working ,although it was very sluggish to start after prodding the brake pedal and then throttle pedal.
The power up sequence made the right noises as far as I can tell when keyed to N .
I have found switching the key off and then back on the cart will only run with selecting reverse first and then a push on the brake.
Reverse/forward did slowly start to work.
Although as I finished just now, I have checked some more connections and plugs the cart has deicided it will not run now, just some clicks from the EM Brake (which I replaced with a new one along with a new soleniod)so should be good ?

Having plugged in the hand held programmer I have readings as follows;
Current fault:HPD Sequencing Fault.
On History setting; Brake wiper, throttle wiper, controller over current and comms supervision.
I am assuming that as I had the cart running at last (although intermitant) the above faults are not terminal and can be resolved?

As I don't have the Curtis Tech Manual I am going to the Curtis web site to see if I can find. All that came with the programmer was a quick start guide.

Should you have any idea's on any of this lot I would be very grateful for your help, again!

Many thanks

Mcalan

[usgicollector]

Do you have this troubleshooting guide?