Curtis SepEx Code 2,4 and 1,3

[foregolf]

Hi, I'm a new member & amateur cart owner. My daughter & a friend that it would be fun to drive it through large puddles of water after a rain storm! She returned home. She didn't have any issues while driving and it made it back home. About 15 minutes later, I went outside and could smell what I describe as some burnt electrical. I engaged pedal and the cart would not go. I've done some research. I have tested the solenoid and it seems fine. When the key is off, the LED on my curtis controller blinks 2,4 but when I turn the key to the run position, it blinks 1,3. I've been reading about how to remove the speed sensor but it is very hard to get to and I haven't done it yet. It is a GEM brand from pictures that I have seen on-line. It appears that it snaps on. Any suggestions on if I should purchase a new speed sensor? I don't have a trailer and haven't taken it to a repair shop to plug in a diagnostic reader. Other thoughts?

[yurtle]

I'm not familiar with sepex carts, but my series sometimes acts weird after a good bath. Nothing a leaf blower or ShopVac on "blow" won't fix. Generally, it's water in the throttle box, at least in my experience.

I also drove mine across our lake bridge during a flood, and the water came over the floor. Nothing a good drying didn't fix. I later found minnows under the floor mat.

Again, I'm a series guy, not sepex.

If you don't get any better advise, I'd blow it as dry as you can, then let it bake in the sun.

[mjroman20]

What model number controller do you have? The codes aren't always the same between models but operating on the assumption you have a 1264 or 68 since this is the EZGo thread the 1,3 code doesn't make a whole lot of sense if all you did was key on. A speed sensor fault is normally only triggered when the vehicle is moving and will result in a low speed limit (around 5mph).

Since you were getting a 2,4 (Main driver On) I'm guessing more than likely you have a 3,1 now (not 1,3) which is Main driver off. You may have a solenoid related issue.

If by chance you were reading the 2,4 backwards as well making it a 4,2, on a 1268 this is a main driver over current. (Solenoid Coil or driver issue) 1264 does not have 4,2.

[foregolf]

I'm not 100% sure it is an EZ GO. It looks like one, but I bought it from a buddy. It is a street legal cart that he bought years back when there was a tax credit.

The model is SepEx 1268-5403

I tested the solenoid and it tested okay. Someone told me that they can test okay, but still be bad? Not sure if I follow that.

I was referred to FSIP by a neighbor. Flight Systems Industrial Products to have them rebuild the controller. I haven't sent in yet. Still hoping to fix on my own through suggestions here.

Thanks,

[mjroman20]

A -5403 is a generic 400A model with a 0-5V throttle..so yes probably not EZGO, they tend to use ITS style throttles in the sepex systems. But at least this narrows down the possible faults:

Code 2,4
MAIN DRIVER ON
Main contactor coil held low.
1. Main contactor missing or wire to coil open.
2. Controller defective.

Code 4,2
DRIVER OVERCURRENT
Contactor driver or aux driver overcurrent
1. Contactor or aux coil shorted.

Code 1,3
SPEED SENSOR FAULT
No pulses from sensor.
1. Speed sensor not connected.
2. Speed sensor defective

Code 3,1
MAIN DRIVER OFF
Main contactor driver held high.
1. Main contactor coil shorted.
2. Controller defective.

Three of these 4 codes are related to the solenoid and I think it very unlikely you are experiencing a 1,3.

The line driver is J1 pin 17. Your solenoid coil should be wired between B+ after the tow/run switch and the other side to this pin.

Depending on how fancy a mete you have; you should have something like 10~20k between pin17 and B-. There should also be a diode connection from 17 (annode) to pin 1 (key)(cathode)

Curtis rated this driver for 1A so for a 48V system the coil resistance of the solenoid should be at least 50ohms; however I have experienced abnormalities in the past with these controllers when using coils with resistances under 200ohms. There may be intermittent overcurrent or coil missing faults sometimes DNCs.

[foregolf]

ok thank you! So do you feel it is more likely a solenoid issue or controller? Or controller that is bad that is causing it to "think" the solenoid is having issues? When I tested my ohms on my solenoid, it read 221. I also took it totally off and energized it and heard the "click". I also hear the "click" when it is connected when I depress my foot power pedal (but obviously the cart doesn't move).

[foregolf]

Lastly, the codes I'm getting are the flashing lights on my controller led status light. It blinks 2 times, then 4 times then pauses and repeats.

[mjroman20]

Are you getting this code right away when you key on? Not pressing any pedals or directions? If so I would measure pin 17 to B- to make sure it isn't shorted. or extremely high.

220ish ohms sounds OK for the coil itself and since it is obviously closing I would think the issue is likely the driver for the coil in the controller itself.

[yurtle]

Assume it's an EZ-GO. Go to the stickies and go to the "series or sepex" thread. Download all wiring diagrams, and follow the volts. Download the troubleshooting guide.

If you have a DMM, and the solenoid always clicks, you're halfway done. You need to figure out where you lose volts, on jack-stands. Where is your forward/neutral/reverse (FNR) switch located?

[kgsc]

Yurtle. Cart is using a 1268 Curtis. Different animal than a standard PDS or DCS wiring. Need to get the manual from FSIP