Pls help ID Western 400 2+2 for possible upgrades

[Goliath]

I purchased my neighbor's Western 400 2+2. Batteries are 1 yr old Trojan T-105s, which he has maintained. I'm trying to find the year of mfg, so I can research upgrades.

The chassis # is 40010210202. I only found 1 semi-credible source for V.I.N. deciphering, and it states the 11 digit V.I.N. was from 1992-1999, 400 is the model, the next 2 digits are month of manufacture, and the next one the year. The last 5 are the serial. If that's correct, it would be 1992.

>>> I sent several emails to Lido, but they have not responded to any of the 8 that I sent. I guess they don't need the business.

The cart is in excellent condition physically, but is VERY slow, struggles uphill with 4 ppl, and bottoms out with 4 ppl.

I don't mind throwing some money at, as the wife likes it. So I'm seeking advice on making it faster, and lifting it slightly. I'm extremely capable mechanically, and have all tools needed to do whatever is required.

I've attached some photos, and ANY help is appreciated.

Photos
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...Hc?usp=sharing

Looking for year/model EZ-GO to use when ordering chassis parts.
Are all body parts custom?
Recommendations for increased speed. Was thinking changing to 48v Lithium (like LithiumBOOST kit) and possibly upgraded motor and/or controller.
Is there a not-too-aggressive lift kit, like 2"?
Best wheel size for mostly street and some fairway.

Thanks!

[scottyb]

18-20" tall tires are best for this cart. You should not need a lift kit for that.
Identify the speed control and motor that are in so we can know which drive system you have for upgrades.

[Goliath]

The cart bottoms out with 4 ppl.

Unless just replacing the leafs changes that, this is the reason I believe I may need a lift kit...unless you have another suggestion?

BTW, any idea if this is a '92, and what chassis it's on?

[kernal]

From the pictures, this appears to be built on a later version EZGO Marathon chassis ruffly '88-'93. Probably early '90's ('91-'93) because it is solid state. The speed control is under the environmental cover between the batteries. So, Marathon chassis parts would be available from EZGO and resellers like the site sponsors here. Body parts not so much or at all.
These carts all had series wound motors and associated speed control. State of the art electronics are available and if the motor is mounted above and parallel to the axles, modern motors will bolt right on and rework of your current motor would also be an option.
The cart is 25+ years old and looks heavy. I don't know for sure but I would think some new heavy duty rear springs would fix the bottoming out problem.

The cart appears to be in excellent condition for it's age!

[Goliath]

Thanks for the info.
It would make sense that it's a '92, according to the article I read.
I'm going to put HD 2 stage leafs in the back, and replace the fronts with new standard leafs.

The motor IS parallel to, and above, the rear axle.

The cart is out at my place in Indian Wells (Palm Springs-ish), and I won't be out there for about a month. So I can't take any more pics of the motor/controller.

That being said, what would yield the best bang/buck in terms of increasing speed? Converting to 48v, and replacing motor/sol/controller with a set of lithiums? Keeping it 36v, replacing motor/sol/controller...

I've got $2,500 to 3,500 to throw at it, and the body is in excellent condition.
My neighbors all have faster carts, and I'd love to pull up next to 'em with this large slug and watch them be incredulous as I pull past...lol.

[kernal]

I would start here: http://www.cartsunlimited.net/ Lots of info to study.
48v is the way to go for series carts. Take your time if you can and read up. Lots of options and combinations. The current motor would take 48v for awhile, possibly a long time. You could save that for last. Also don't forget about the brakes and charger. Voltage change would require a different charger. If the cart is stored at a vacation residence or something then a charger that "floats" the batteries would be a consideration. Lots of things to think about.

[yurtle]

Series carts are pretty expensive to truly upgrade, but I did it and am incredibly satisfied. ScottyB is your best resource. I have dragged whole trees from my front yard to my back yard, so I wouldn't have to carry a ton of logs. It now goes pretty fast, and if I decide I want more, I can get bigger tires or change gears. (tires are prettier). Still gotta race my neighbor's new RXV. We have a lot of up and down hills, so he'll probably blow me away uphill, but if they have any speed regulation, I'll kill him downhill.

[yurtle]

BTW, my stock brakes will lock 'em up at 35+ mph going downhill with four of us (plus the two extra T-105 passengers). Stock tires. Any bigger and I'd have to seriously consider disks.

[Goliath]

That link is VERY helpful.
I already know more from 1 hour on that site than a few weeks of poking around online.

I LOVE the idea of the installing the reversing contactors, getting rid of the F/R handle with dubious contact patch points of failure.

So far I'm kinda set on 2 gauge cables, the reversing contactors, and a new controller. Was thinking about going to 48v for the speed, but would LOVE to lose the weight of lead/acid, and spring for the 48v/60ah LithiumBoost pack!

That's about $2,600 worth of stuff, but not sure if the stock motor could handle it for a year, although we only plan on driving a few miles at a time...

Still researching!

[yurtle]

Though not recommended, I ran my stock series motor at 48 volts and 500 amps for years. I installed an ammeter, and never saw it anywhere near 500 amps, except during a test run, where I was rolling downhill backwards, then punched it. It only got to 500 amps for a second or two. My steepest hill is mild compared to some. When it comes to heat, average is more important than instantaneous. Worst case, limit it to 400 amps until you upgrade your motor. I only changed my motor for more speed. The addiction never ends. I could drive all day with four of us, and rested when my temperature sensor said "warning". It was set conservatively.

Bottom line, heat is what kills motors, not voltage, and amperage is what causes heat. Higher voltage means lower amps for the same amount of work, I^2R.