12V reducer, Fuse Box and Bus Bar?

[cv2065]

Ok...cart is stripped so now is the best time to install these items. I'll have individual headlights and stereo head unit (no amp just yet) that will be running through the 12v reducer. I have the instructions from cartsunlimited, but wanted to see if anyone has installed these and maybe have already posted a step by step tutorial so to speak?

Couple of questions off the top of my head:

1. Where is the best place to mount each item? Diffuser says that it needs to be against metal for cooling purposes, so have some ideas.

2. Little confused on the routing of the radio and lights. I'm assuming that the 12V from both runs through the fuse box (each on their own fuse), then the lights to the light switch and radio running through the accessory on the ignition, with the grounds running through the bus bar then to the battery negative?

Chances are I'm off base on routing this. The instructions don't have the bus bar factored in. Help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[hawmarine]

That set up sounds right. Just remember most radios have a primary wire and a memory wire. I set up my fuse block on a switch. Switch is off no power to anything, except the radio memory wire is run to a constant 12v source so it maintains pre sets and volume setting, the same for my LED controller, it needed constant power to maintain memory. The draw from both of those is minuscule. . On myEZ GO TXT I have a space in the battery box behind the drivers seat. I mounted everything in there, including a deep cycle 12v battery. There is plenty of room, even put a Poly Planar AMP for the speakers in there, as well as a LED power module and controller.

[orangeman6]

CV,

A lot of guys mounted the reducer on the flat, empty spot under the seat on the driver's side. I put mine on the same side but up on the splash guard of the rear wheel. That piece is plastic and, admittedly, I didn't read all of the directions. I believe the concern was heat, so I just elevated it off of the plastic with some bushings. I have mine on quite a bit and it dissipates heat easily this way. I was afraid it would get too wet and dirty on that lower part. My fuse block and bus bar are in the same area.

How you wire each accessory depends on how you want to operate it. From a 3 position key switch, regular switch? Maybe a combo of both?

You'll have a 12v out from the reducer to your fuse block and get the 12v to each accessory from a fused output there. My bus bar is tied to pack -, with each accessory having its own -.

I wanted to be able to run my accessories without the key on, so everything has its own switch on the dash. My switches are pretty, but weak, so I put relays in for each so I didn't chance burning them up. Minus the relay, just run power from the fuse , through the switch, and to the accessory. If you want power through the key switch, check the diagram or test the tabs for continuity in each position. I believe it must be a 3 position switch for that.

The Scottyb reducer has the remote trigger so it's not always on, which is a good thing. Mine is switched at the dash but lots of guys have the reducer come on with the key.

Again, if you want to use the key switch, figure out how it works. Also, put some good thought into how many accessories you may end up with and how exactly you want to use them, as far as turning them on/off. One more FYI-the memory power for the stereo has to be considered if you plan on having the reducer turn off. My stereo is brand new and stores stations without power to it, so I didn't have to worry about it.

Search this forum for "reducer " and you'll find a bunch of good information. Pay particular attention to posts by Sergio, Scottyb, cgtech, and sir nuke. There really smart guys I'm leaving out but I know these guys have responded to the reducer specifically.

Good luck, and be sure to post what you do. It helps the rest of us that are still trying to figure all of this out.

**Didn't mean to repeat anything from the above response. Looks like Marine types a bit faster than I do.

[hawmarine]

Originally Posted by orangeman6

CV,

A lot of guys mounted the reducer on the flat, empty spot under the seat on the driver's side. I put mine on the same side but up on the splash guard of the rear wheel. That piece is plastic and, admittedly, I didn't read all of the directions. I believe the concern was heat, so I just elevated it off of the plastic with some bushings. I have mine on quite a bit and it dissipates heat easily this way. I was afraid it would get too wet and dirty on that lower part. My fuse block and bus bar are in the same area.

How you wire each accessory depends on how you want to operate it. From a 3 position key switch, regular switch? Maybe a combo of both?

You'll have a 12v out from the reducer to your fuse block and get the 12v to each accessory from a fused output there. My bus bar is tied to pack -, with each accessory having its own -.

I wanted to be able to run my accessories without the key on, so everything has its own switch on the dash. My switches are pretty, but weak, so I put relays in for each so I didn't chance burning them up. Minus the relay, just run power from the fuse , through the switch, and to the accessory. If you want power through the key switch, check the diagram or test the tabs for continuity in each position. I believe it must be a 3 position switch for that.

The Scottyb reducer has the remote trigger so it's not always on, which is a good thing. Mine is switched at the dash but lots of guys have the reducer come on with the key.

Again, if you want to use the key switch, figure out how it works. Also, put some good thought into how many accessories you may end up with and how exactly you want to use them, as far as turning them on/off. One more FYI-the memory power for the stereo has to be considered if you plan on having the reducer turn off. My stereo is brand new and stores stations without power to it, so I didn't have to worry about it.

Search this forum for "reducer " and you'll find a bunch of good information. Pay particular attention to posts by Sergio, Scottyb, cgtech, and sir nuke. There really smart guys I'm leaving out but I know these guys have responded to the reducer specifically.

Good luck, and be sure to post what you do. It helps the rest of us that are still trying to figure all of this out.

**Didn't mean to repeat anything from the above response. Looks like Marine types a bit faster than I do.

Lol, I type fast on my iPad. Always great to have more info.

[cv2065]

Thanks for the replies! I went to Scottyb's website and downloaded a better diagram than what came with the converter. I plan to mount under the drivers seat in that little open metal area. All makes sense now.

Couple of other questions:

1. Did you mount the bus and fuse box with the converter or somewhere else? I know that it heats up, so not sure how close is suitable for the fuse box and bus. Pictures would be great if anyone has some after installation.

2. I have the 30 amp version from Scottyb. You say that it has a remote trigger which I assume detects key activity? Which means that I don't need a separate on/off toggle? His directions don't include a toggle switch, but wanted to make sure.

3. The DC converter comes with the red/yellow and black/green wires bundled together in pigtails. Not sure why they come that way, as it seems to me that they need to be cut apart to go to the correct connections. Just wanted to be sure I'm not missing something there.

Thanks!!

[orangeman6]

Not sure about how they're bundled.

Red-pack +
Black-pack -
Green-supplies 12v fuse block
Yellow-signal wire to turn reducer on. That could be hooked direct to pack if you want it always on (not good imho) or through a switch or the key.

I don't think it gets hot enough to damage anything around it. With any electronic that has any type of load, its best to have some air flow around it. The photo I posted is about the best I could get in that space. As you can see, mine is on the wheel well with the fuses and bus bar next to it. A lot of guys put it on the flat part down there and the other pieces up on the wheel well.

In the other pic I have 4 illuminated push button switches. Reducer, stereo, headlights, and dome light.

[Sir Nuke]

Here is a picture of my install....it too is on the floor on the drivers side. both the converter and the fuse panel with integrated bus bar.


PIC61.jpg

[cv2065]

Awesome! Thank you for the pics guys! Very cool dash Orangeman!

Final question is about the fuses. I've got 2 reds and 4 blues that came with the kit. I know that red is 10amp and blue is 15amp. How does one know which size for the headlamps and which for the radio?

[Sir Nuke]

can't say about the radio.....but I have a 10 amp for my headlights.

oh and here is my dash......at least the build I just finished. and a close up of the custom switch panel I had made.

PIC33.jpg PIC32.jpg

[orangeman6]

Thanks. Watts/volts is the math, then you're supposed to add some from there, but I'm not completely sure.