1996 Club Car won't move

[belleaut]

The whine does not change pitch with position of the pedal.

[belleaut]

I just completed the "Voltage from Controller to Motor" test using the A side terminals. I did not see this test in the manual before. I should be getting low volts to full volts as I depress the pedal. I am getting zero volts at all times. The manual states anything less than 10 would mean that the controller needs to be replaced.

Thanks to all of you helping me with this problem. I will wait a few days before I order an new controller in case anyone has anything else to add that I may have missed.
I will post again if this is the fix.

[eagant5]

Originally Posted by belleaut

The whine does not change pitch with position of the pedal.

Sounds like the whine you are hearing is the controller not motor.

[belleaut]

Originally Posted by eagant5

Sounds like the whine you are hearing is the controller not motor.

I believe you are correct on that. It is the controller and not the motor.

[joesam]

Tahoe might be spending time with his family (which he should) - lets knock a couple things off the list. Here's one. If your standard wiring is intact - you should hear your SECOND solenoid click (dynamic brake) when you depress the accelerator - do you? If not - it could be a failed/open microswitch (fitted on the outside I think) of the CVP (continuously varaible potentiometer) under the floorboards. Check to see if it switches continuity when the accelerator is depressed/released.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

If the controller isn't changing pitch when you apply throttle, the potentiometer probably isn't changing resistance either.... There should be a small round black connector just in front of the two batteries on the driver's side under the seat. Unplug that connector and do a resistance test between the yellow wire and the white/black wire coming out of the potentiometer. You should see 5k-0 ohms from pedal up to pedal down. Put your meter on 20k OHMS setting to do this test. If the potentiometer is out of range, replace it with an AM293201 MCOR4 conversion kit.

[belleaut]

Originally Posted by joesam

Tahoe might be spending time with his family (which he should) - lets knock a couple things off the list. Here's one. If your standard wiring is intact - you should hear your SECOND solenoid click (dynamic brake) when you depress the accelerator - do you? If not - it could be a failed/open microswitch (fitted on the outside I think) of the CVP (continuously varaible potentiometer) under the floorboards. Check to see if it switches continuity when the accelerator is depressed/released.

The second solenoid does click when the pedal is pressed. Just an FYI, The main one also clicks when the key is turned on.

[belleaut]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

If the controller isn't changing pitch when you apply throttle, the potentiometer probably isn't changing resistance either.... There should be a small round black connector just in front of the two batteries on the driver's side under the seat. Unplug that connector and do a resistance test between the yellow wire and the white/black wire coming out of the potentiometer. You should see 5k-0 ohms from pedal up to pedal down. Put your meter on 20k OHMS setting to do this test. If the potentiometer is out of range, replace it with an AM293201 MCOR4 conversion kit.

I did the test as you instructed. I am not great with OMS or my tester is bad. I set it to 20k like you said. The first reading (pedal up) was in the 0.20 range. When I pressed the pedal it would change to 0.16. The longer I left it connected the higher the pedal up number rose. At the end it had risen to 0.27, pedal down would then go to 0.22 or 0.24. The numbers did not consistently lower with the pedal movement but it did change when I pressed the pedal. Like I said it may be the tester.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by belleaut

I did the test as you instructed. I am not great with OMS or my tester is bad. I set it to 20k like you said. The first reading (pedal up) was in the 0.20 range. When I pressed the pedal it would change to 0.16. The longer I left it connected the higher the pedal up number rose. At the end it had risen to 0.27, pedal down would then go to 0.22 or 0.24. The numbers did not consistently lower with the pedal movement but it did change when I pressed the pedal. Like I said it may be the tester.

If those numbers are truly accurate, the signal is wrong and the potentiometer needs to be replaced. If you can check it with a known good meter to confirm your readings you'll know. This very slight change in resistance throughout the range of the pedal mirrors the fact that the controller doesn't change pitch when you apply throttle.

[belleaut]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

If those numbers are truly accurate, the signal is wrong and the potentiometer needs to be replaced. If you can check it with a known good meter to confirm your readings you'll know. This very slight change in resistance throughout the range of the pedal mirrors the fact that the controller doesn't change pitch when you apply throttle.

I got some help and had a better meter. The reading started at a little over 6 and the jumped back and forth as I pressed the pedal. At one point it does drop to zero but then jumps back up again. There is not a consistent drop as I pushed the pedal down. I plugged everything back together and tried to move the pedal to the spot that zeroed out and nothing changed. The motor did not spin and the controller whine did not change.

From what I read, the potentiometer usually wears out. The cart will jump or speed up or slow down at unintended time. Mine just stopped in the garage after starting to back up. Can the potentiometer just quit?

I am sorry for all of the same questions over and over again. I just want to be as sure as possible before I drop a lot of money on parts. I also realize you are making the best suggestions you can based on my information. Thank you very much for taking the time to read and repost. I am learning a lot.
Thanks again.