PDS speed controller diagnosing

[Gibb]

Thanks JonnieB! . I will update what I find...

[Gibb]

JonnieB All the pins had full voltage and 2 had none like you said.

With F/R in R I had voltage on pin2 and also pin3, not sure what that means now.

Pins 10 and 6 are working like you said.

I didn't think I had a pre-charged resistor on the solenoid but I just saw one which I didn't see before, it was on the very bottom of the solenoid.

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by measuring voltage drop on the eight high current cables and how much drop?

[JohnnieB]

When the F/R switch is in F, the F/R switch connects J1 Pin-1 to Pin-3. In R, Pin-1 is connected to Pin-2. When Pin-2 has voltage on it, the controller sends current through the field windings in one direction and when voltage is on Pin-2. it send s it through the field windings in the opposite direction.

Having voltage on both Pin-2 and Pin-3 when in R, is an issue, but if it only has voltage om Pin-3 when in F, the controller ought to work normally going forward. We can troubleshoot this problem later.

The eight high current cables are:
The five that connect the six batteries in series.
The cable from the battery pack's main negative terminal to the controller's B- terminal.
The cable from the battery pack's main positive terminal to the solenoid's battery side large terminal.
The short cable from the solenoid's controller side large terminal to the controller's B+ terminal.

Put the DVM negative test lead on the battery post or stud at one end of the cable and the positive test lead on the battery post or stud at the other end of the cable. Push pedal just far enough to make solenoid click and see what the voltmeter reads. There should be little, if any voltage drop across any of the cables.

Also measure from one of the solenoid's large terminal to the other large terminal when solenoid firs clicks, should be zero volts.

You are only getting 6.9V between the controller's B- and A1 terminals when solenoid first clicks and you ought to be getting full battery pack voltage. That is 38.2V when fully charged, so somewhere in those eight cables and the solenoid contacts, you are losing 31.3V.

What is the back voltage when pedal is push just far enough the make solenoid click?

[Gibb]

Well I tested them and the 5 that connect the batteries seem ok.
All the ones below gave me all 0 voltage.

The cable from the battery pack's main negative terminal to the controller's B- terminal.
The cable from the battery pack's main positive terminal to the solenoid's battery side large terminal.
The short cable from the solenoid's controller side large terminal to the controller's B+ terminal.

I had 0v on the large terminal to the other large terminal on the solenoid before and after pushing the pedal. Sorry I'm not the best with electrical issues so I'm not sure what back voltage means.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Gibb

Well I tested them and the 5 that connect the batteries seem ok.
All the ones below gave me all 0 voltage.

The cable from the battery pack's main negative terminal to the controller's B- terminal.
The cable from the battery pack's main positive terminal to the solenoid's battery side large terminal.
The short cable from the solenoid's controller side large terminal to the controller's B+ terminal.

I had 0v on the large terminal to the other large terminal on the solenoid before and after pushing the pedal. Sorry I'm not the best with electrical issues so I'm not sure what back voltage means.

You said you had a pre-charge resistor between the solenoid's large terminals, so you ought to have a few volts less than full battery pack voltage between the two large terminals before pushing the pedal and zero volts when pedal is pressed.

It is PACK voltage rather than BACK voltage and it means whatever the battery pack's voltage actually is at the time you are making the voltage measurements. A fully charged 36V battery pack is roughly 38.2V while a battery pack that is about 50% discharged is about 36V and I have no way of knowing what your battery pack's state of charge is, so I say full battery pack voltage or pack voltage to indicate the voltage measurement at the test point ought to equal the battery pack's voltage at the time you make the test measurement.

Assuming your battery pack's voltage is greater than 6.9V, you are losing upward of 25V or so someplace in the 6 batteries, eight cables, one set of solenoid contacts and possibly the controller.

What is the battery pack voltage?
What is the voltage between the B- and B+ terminals on the controller when the pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click?

[Gibb]

The pack reads 37.9v.

The controller B- to B+ reads 37.9v at solenoid click.

Im sure they would be a little higher but I've had the charger off for about a week. Ill charge it tonight so I'm back to 100% charged.