RXV Reducer Question

[cgtech]

If you want "key on only" operation, you would wire DC converter B+ to the solenoid terminal with the solid copper buss-bar that powers the controller.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by cgtech

If you want "key on only" operation, you would wire DC converter B+ to the solenoid terminal with the solid copper buss-bar that powers the controller.

[TheJoshHarding]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

The factory cables on the solenoid can be red or blue. I upgraded mine to 2 guage.

Bob

Bob, Any advantage to doing this that I should be considering?

[TheJoshHarding]

So based on these instructions, yellow would go to the solenoid. Black to the main negative on the battery pack and red would go to my fuse block for distribution to the sound bar and sub. Then I would run a negative from the fuse block to the main negative on the battery pack (my fuse block has negatives)

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by TheJoshHarding

So based on these instructions, yellow would go to the solenoid. Black to the main negative on the battery pack and red would go to my fuse block for distribution to the sound bar and sub. Then I would run a negative from the fuse block to the main negative on the battery pack (my fuse block has negatives)

Yellow would go to the battery pack +48V, Black would go to the battery pack -, and green would go to the solenoid + (the controller B+ side).

The reducer output has a switched output that comes on with the key, the Red wire, which supplies +12V to the fuse panel. And the Blue wire is a constant on +12V which is to power those accessories that need power full time, such as the radio memory power or anything else you want always on. Use a fuse there as well.

The 12v accessories negative would be bonded to the Black wire that connects to the battery pack - wire.

Bob

[TheJoshHarding]

Gotcha. So blue (not needing anything always on) is left alone.

Should I be concerned that the green wire gauge is pretty small. Like 18 as opposed to the yellow black and red that are 12?

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by TheJoshHarding

Gotcha. So blue (not needing anything always on) is left alone.

Should I be concerned that the green wire gauge is pretty small. Like 18 as opposed to the yellow black and red that are 12?

Naaa, it's just a signal wire to let the reducer sense that the key is on. It only carries microamps.

Bob

[TheJoshHarding]

Any problem in upsizing this wire? I only have 12 gauge. I'm
Assuming if I go from a smaller gauge to a slightly larger it's not a problem but the other way is a No no

[TheJoshHarding]

Is this correct? Main positive 48 would get the yellow wire. Main negative would get the black wire and the bonded wire from the 12V accessories? Sorry for the 20 questions. Just terrified to ruin the controller



Guy who sold the cart wired those headlights to that single battery. I'm
Going to pull that harness off you see and add to the fuse block.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by TheJoshHarding

Is this correct? Main positive 48 would get the yellow wire. Main negative would get the black wire and the bonded wire from the 12V accessories? Sorry for the 20 questions. Just terrified to ruin the controller



Guy who sold the cart wired those headlights to that single battery. I'm
Going to pull that harness off you see and add to the fuse block.

Your picture of the battery connections is correct. Be sure to switch the run/tow switch to tow and turn the key off before you disconnect or reconnect any wiring. Going larger on the sense wire will not hurt anything.

Bob