EZGO RVX 2011 - 12V Lights etc, work, all 48V curcuit and solenoid dead after my F-up

[beepbeepbloop]

I've no one to blame but myself - when trying to install a 48V battery level gauge, I short circuited my previously working 2011 EZGO RXV 48V cart.

Now, when I turn the ignition, I no longer hear the click I used to from the solenoid.

I've searched the board and have done the following to isolate the problem.

Cart is in RUN mode, not TOW mode

The headlights, directionals, brake lights, and horn all work however. I probed around with a multi-meter and still the 12V circuits work, but now there is no 48V on the wires I had previously measured at 48V.

The cart WILL take a new charge via the charger port, I believe that rules the 15A fuse, but I still replaced it anyway.

Question is there more than ONE fuse? I can only find one.

There are four wires coming out of the charger port - three thick Red, Black, Grey, and one small blue wire. I have shorted what I think is the the reed switch on that blue wire, so I believe that can be ruled out.

I bought and installed a replacement solenoid.

I took a pictures of a part that I don't know what it is, it is a rectangular thing that goes into the main battery from the charger on the grey cable. It is part number 480-0222. That is the only writing on it. Please see the first attachment.

From the nest of wires is another thing that I'm not sure on - can you please help me identify it? The last two attachments are from this thing, the top and bottom views.

Thanks in advance for any help here!!!
Mike

[BobBoyce]

There is no reed switch on the charge port, there is a circuit board. That grey "wire" is not a single wire, it is a small two conductor cable that carries the sensor information from that block at the end. It is a temperature sensor, and it picks up the battery temperature from the battery terminal that it it attached to. That circuit board buried under epoxy in the charge port sends a +48V signal to the controller. So shorting it is not a good idea. You may have burned out the charge board PCB. If it is burned out, nothing will operate because the controller senses that the charger is plugged in, whether it is or is not. To test it, jumper that blue wire to +48V. If the cart works, order a new charge port and replace it.

That other sensor on the resistor mount is a termperature switch that shuts down the controller if it gets too hot.

[beepbeepbloop]

Thanks for the info!

To clarify what I thought was a reed switch was just what I think was an inline connector. By shorting it i meant i just cut out the connector and attached the cut ends together.

Ok, per your recommendation, I cut the blue wire and ran a jumper to +48V. I'm not hearing the clicking sound from the solenoid as I expected when turning the ignition switch for off to reverse, netural, or forward.

I am getting 48V across the big posts on the solenoid if that helps.

Any other suggestions?

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by beepbeepbloop

Thanks for the info!

To clarify what I thought was a reed switch was just what I think was an inline connector. By shorting it i meant i just cut out the connector and attached the cut ends together.

Ok, per your recommendation, I cut the blue wire and ran a jumper to +48V. I'm not hearing the clicking sound from the solenoid as I expected when turning the ignition switch for off to reverse, netural, or forward.

I am getting 48V across the big posts on the solenoid if that helps.

Any other suggestions?

Ok, I was trying for the quickest and simplest test first, though I suspect that your issue is much graver than that. When you wired your new guage, did you mess with the SOC guage wires in the dash at all? That is not a voltmeter, it is a digital display for the controller to output its battery state of charge calculations results on. There are 3 wires of concern there, Switched battery pack +48V, battery pack negative, and a logic level 0V/5V grey wire. If those wires interacted in any way, you will have blown your controller, and possibly every 5V operated sensor on the cart. Throttle pedal/brake pedal, and the motor encoders. From your photo, it looks like yours MIGHT have been upgraded to a Curtis controller (A black resistor mount plate with the temperature switch you asked about, vs a bare aluminum mount plate for a Danaher controller that 2011 RXVs were equipped with from the factory). You may need a test controller and test parts to suss out the extent of the damage. Where are you located, and can you post a picture of your controller?

[beepbeepbloop]

Again, big thanks for your help!

Yes, i was messing with the wires by the front dash, not sure what SOC is, but I , shorted some 48V dash wires accidentally which has left me dead in the water.

I've attached a few pics for the controller, are they legible?

I'm located in eastern Washington state, near Wenatchee. Are you local or can recommend a replace place or replacement parts?

Thanks!
Mike

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by beepbeepbloop

Again, big thanks for your help!

Yes, i was messing with the wires by the front dash, not sure what SOC is, but I , shorted some 48V dash wires accidentally which has left me dead in the water.

I've attached a few pics for the controller, are they legible?

I'm located in eastern Washington state, near Wenatchee. Are you local or can recommend a replace place or replacement parts?

Thanks!
Mike

Hey there Mike

I'm not local, but you can remove the controller and mail it to me and I can toss it on the bench to check it out. It is an early model 1206AC-5201, as used on the Danaher to Curtis conversions in the early Curtis RXV years. I do minor repairs, mostly reflash corrupted memory or replace FETs. Anything more severe, I refer to FSIP. I think you need to have 5 posts on the forum here in order to send PMs (Private Messages), but I'll send you a PM with the information on how to send it here. I don't charge for programming or testing Curtis controllers for members here. All you need to do is cover postage both ways. I use Priority Mail, a medium flat rate box is just under $14 each way to/from anywhere in the continental US. Document (take good photos) the controller wiring before you disconnect it, so you can see how to reconnect it. There are 6 bolts holding wires to the face of the controller, and a bolt at each corner that holds the controller to its mounts. The resistor mount is attached by the 2 top corner bolts. They should be metric, a 10mm socket fits them. I don't need the bolts to test it, I have plenty here. Wrap the controller with bubble wrap or wads of paper so it does not rattle around in the box.

Bob

[beepbeepbloop]

Thanks Bob - You are my hero!

Can you send the mailing and payment info to mikepolson at hotmail dot com? Thanks

[BobBoyce]

I had sent it in a PM earlier, and just sent it to your email address.

[BobBoyce]

Mike, I sent you an email with the results of the diagnostics and the error logs that I was able to pull from the logic section.

Bob

[beepbeepbloop]

You are awesome Bob! I got you email with all the diagnostics. Its really incredible how much info is available from the controller. I wonder if there is a way to interface with it, similar to the OBDII type of interfaces in cars?