First ride in my cart

[handtools]

FWIW my Medalist is set up real similar to yours and the best it can do is 17 mph

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by handtools

FWIW my Medalist is set up real similar to yours and the best it can do is 17 mph

Thanks. Well, then it looks like I'm right where I should be. Still would like to see what the monitor file says.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by 70oldsracer

Thanks. Well, then it looks like I'm right where I should be. Still would like to see what the monitor file says.

Me too

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Me too

Does the monitor file look like everything is good?

[Sergio]

The logs for the most part look OK, but there are a few anomaly errors every time the pedal is pressed.

It may just be a timing thing with the SR Controllers since the Pedal micro-switch provides the KSI input to the Controller.

Since You have a FN1 switch and the log showed the setting was on minimum, can You please post a picture of Your settings screen as well as the "Speed and Torque" curves?

I just want to double check the curves are not demanding current right at the time the pedal closes and what the FN range looks like.

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The logs for the most part look OK, but there are a few anomaly errors every time the pedal is pressed.

It may just be a timing thing with the SR Controllers since the Pedal micro-switch provides the KSI input to the Controller.

Since You have a FN1 switch and the log showed the setting was on minimum, can You please post a picture of Your settings screen as well as the "Speed and Torque" curves?

I just want to double check the curves are not demanding current right at the time the pedal closes and what the FN range looks like.

I have not hooked up the FN1 switch as of yet. I basically just mounted it in the dash, but haven't connected it to the controller or set it up with my laptop. I'll try to get a pic of the speed and torque curves. I really don't know how to read the file, but it looks like the most current draw I saw was 200 amps, Is that a good thing?

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by 70oldsracer

I have not hooked up the FN1 switch as of yet. I basically just mounted it in the dash, but haven't connected it to the controller or set it up with my laptop. I'll try to get a pic of the speed and torque curves. I really don't know how to read the file, but it looks like the most current draw I saw was 200 amps, Is that a good thing?

As long as the Controller is still set for "Digital Switch" you are fine, but if the Controller was already set for "FN1", then with the FN1 switch unplugged the Controller would interpret that as the minimum setting for the dial.

You actually got Armature current above 290 amps, but there are so many runs and without knowing the conditions for each run it is hard to judge if the Controller and Motor were reacting appropriately.

Some of the runs show around 60 amps during 100% throttle, that would be about right for level pavement cruising current consumption.

I think You still have a stock Motor, so keeping the "throttle rate" low helps preventing the Motor for overheating since the Motor can use way more current (if allowed) during acceleration than it can convert to mechanical rotation.

The battery voltage seems to holding up fine during high current demand, but You started the tests with a battery voltage of only 49.6v.

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by Sergio

As long as the Controller is still set for "Digital Switch" you are fine, but if the Controller was already set for "FN1", then with the FN1 switch unplugged the Controller would interpret that as the minimum setting for the dial.

You actually got Armature current above 290 amps, but there are so many runs and without knowing the conditions for each run it is hard to judge if the Controller and Motor were reacting appropriately.

Some of the runs show around 60 amps during 100% throttle, that would be about right for level pavement cruising current consumption.

I think You still have a stock Motor, so keeping the "throttle rate" low helps preventing the Motor for overheating since the Motor can use way more current (if allowed) during acceleration than it can convert to mechanical rotation.

The battery voltage seems to holding up fine during high current demand, but You started the tests with a battery voltage of only 49.6v.

The FN1 switch was an after thought, so I'm sure Scotty set up the controller for use without it. The digital voltmeter (from Scotty) on my cart was showing 51.2 volts when I started the tests. I basically just went up and down my block on smooth pavement. The first run would be down and then back up. I had my brother on the cart with me too. As you can hopefully see from the pics, my street does have a pretty good incline to it, so the first run would be considered a downhill run.

[scottyb]

Agreed, The batteries look like they are holding up under load. The motor pull near 300 amps at marker 604 and the 49v pack fell to 45v. That's good.

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Agreed, The batteries look like they are holding up under load. The motor pull near 300 amps at marker 604 and the 49v pack fell to 45v. That's good.

Thanks Scotty, that's great news, I was a little worried about the batteries. Thanks for the great products and all your help. This site is great and so are the members. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone and their families, enjoy.

Frank