First ride in my cart

[Sergio]

If You had just moved the cart right before you started to log the data, the battery voltage had not had enough time to recover, but the dash meter should have matched what the Controller measured on B+.

Just in case, make sure the cables stacking order is optimal on all terminals, meaning the big cable lugs always go first and the smaller ones on top.

If You have 2 cables on Controller B+, the motor cable goes first and the one from the Solenoid goes on Top.

I would also set the "Max Battery Amps" to 300 amps, leave the "Max Motor Amps" at the max if you want.

I would also reduce the "Throttle Rate" to the lowest value that still delivers a good driving performance for your conditions, if it is set too high not only you have jerky reactions but it also causes the OEM Motor to heat unnecessarily.

Make sure Your "Speed/Torque" curves are at zero linearized throttle position are at zero and don't go up too sharply to ensure that when the Reversing Contactor and Solenoid close the Controller is not already providing power.

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by Sergio

If You had just moved the cart right before you started to log the data, the battery voltage had not had enough time to recover, but the dash meter should have matched what the Controller measured on B+.

Just in case, make sure the cables stacking order is optimal on all terminals, meaning the big cable lugs always go first and the smaller ones on top.

If You have 2 cables on Controller B+, the motor cable goes first and the one from the Solenoid goes on Top.

I would also set the "Max Battery Amps" to 300 amps, leave the "Max Motor Amps" at the max if you want.

I would also reduce the "Throttle Rate" to the lowest value that still delivers a good driving performance for your conditions, if it is set too high not only you have jerky reactions but it also causes the OEM Motor to heat unnecessarily.

Make sure Your "Speed/Torque" curves are at zero linearized throttle position are at zero and don't go up too sharply to ensure that when the Reversing Contactor and Solenoid close the Controller is not already providing power.

Okay, starting from the top. Yes I did move my cart down the driveway first before I got it into the street and started the test. It's possible when I first turned the cart on that it was at 51.2, but not sure if it was that when I started the test, could of been 49.6, don't remember.
I'm pretty sure the cable stacking order is good, just need to check the B+ on the controller. My B+ wires go from the controller to the contactor and one to the solenoid, so I'm assuming the one going to the contactor needs to go on the controller first. Since my cart will be mostly a hunting cart, do you think I should do a test on a trip back and forth to my stand to get additional data for the actual terrain the cart will mostly be on. In the meantime, I'll make all the changes you suggested, thanks.

[Sergio]

You are correct, Controller B+ to Reversing Contactor cable goes first.

You don't want to feel like the cart is having a delayed reaction to the pedal, but the motor efficiency goes way down at the upper end, meaning its torque will increase very little with each additional amp is drawing from the controller, instead most of the additional current will be dispersed as heat.

You probably want to play with that setting a little to find the best value for your driving and don't increase it beyond the point where you can no longer feel much difference.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Agreed, The batteries look like they are holding up under load. The motor pull near 300 amps at marker 604 and the 49v pack fell to 45v. That's good.

The batteries are performing better (less voltage drop under load) than I suspected they would, but you're conflating battery amps and motor amps.

While the 296.3A was passing through the motor, only 230.9A were being drawn from the battery pack and the pack voltage had dropped to 45.7V.

Having more amps flowing through motor (and the MOSFETs in the controller) is due to the flywheel effect of feeding the motor with pulsed DC when the duty cycle of the controller's PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) output to the motor is greater than 0% and less than 100%. When the duty cycle is at 100%, straight line DC is being fed to motor, so there is no flywheel effect and battery current and motor current will be equal.

The motor having higher amp flow when not at 100% is why the cable to the motor is landed first on the controller's B+ terminal.

All in all, it looks to me like runtime will be more of a issue than performance.

[70oldsracer]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The batteries are performing better (less voltage drop under load) than I suspected they would, but you're conflating battery amps and motor amps.

While the 296.3A was passing through the motor, only 230.9A were being drawn from the battery pack and the pack voltage had dropped to 45.7V.

Having more amps flowing through motor (and the MOSFETs in the controller) is due to the flywheel effect of feeding the motor with pulsed DC when the duty cycle of the controller's PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) output to the motor is greater than 0% and less than 100%. When the duty cycle is at 100%, straight line DC is being fed to motor, so there is no flywheel effect and battery current and motor current will be equal.

The motor having higher amp flow when not at 100% is why the cable to the motor is landed first on the controller's B+ terminal.

All in all, it looks to me like runtime will be more of a issue than performance.

Johnnie, thanks a lot for your reply. The unfortunate thing is that the only thing I really understood out of it was the part about the batteries having more of a runtime issue