LED lights/head/tail lights/running lights DIY kit

[hotwls13]

It’s alive!!! Look what I created!!!!!!!

Haha, sorry, as you can tell I’m super happy with the outcome. After waaay more wiring (and trips to lowes/Home Depot) than expected, my “cheapy” lights are done.

Ended up with a 2 switch system (1 48v 1 12v) and used a relay coming off the key (so actually 3 switches to get to lights).

Thanks to everyone for all the help (esp fairtax4me, yawood and bobob).

[Fairtax4me]

Awesome! Job well done sir!

I was starting to feel like we had taken you down the rabbit hole because it seemed like you initially wanted this to be a simple install. But the way you have it done now allows you to expand if you want to later, and makes sure everything is off so you have no draw when the cart is not in use.

[hotwls13]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Awesome! Job well done sir!

I was starting to feel like we had taken you down the rabbit hole because it seemed like you initially wanted this to be a simple install. But the way you have it done now allows you to expand if you want to later, and makes sure everything is off so you have no draw when the cart is not in use.

Yeah, I kinda did go down the rabbit hole a bit. More than I originally wanted and it probably would have been a little cheaper had I just gone with a cheapy already made light kit.

But now I've got plenty of extra switches, fuse holders etc for the next project.

U can't see it very well but the fusebox is in the drivers side cubby. I plan to put in a panel/door (made out of plastic black cutting board) that basically friction fits inside the cubby and sits flush with the top of the fusebox. Then it will be "protected" from the elements and little fingers.

For now though it's nice out, we will be driving it around as much as possible.

[hawgsalot]

Ok it appears you guys know way more about this than I so need a little follow up on this thread. My cart is 04 Precedent and I was using a cheap reducer that went from 48v pack negative, 48v positive with fuse to the reducer. Then from the positive and negative to radio. All I need is radio and the lights are running off a in dash OEM reducer that doesn't turn off with key.

The way I had the radio reducer sparked like hell when hooking up which I don't like! I'm upgrading to a new Alltrax 400a controller this weekend so want to prewire new converter.

My first question is my radio turned off to the key switch with my setup above, how is that since I didn't have the reducer wired though the key switch much less have a relay?

Second question concerning new wiring. Do I need to come off B- off the new Alltrax 400a controller for the 48v negative. Then off the 48v pack positive to a relay, then to key switch, then to converter. Is this correct?

[yawood]

Originally Posted by hotwls13

Yeah, I kinda did go down the rabbit hole a bit. More than I originally wanted and it probably would have been a little cheaper had I just gone with a cheapy already made light kit.

But now I've got plenty of extra switches, fuse holders etc for the next project.

U can't see it very well but the fusebox is in the drivers side cubby. I plan to put in a panel/door (made out of plastic black cutting board) that basically friction fits inside the cubby and sits flush with the top of the fusebox. Then it will be "protected" from the elements and little fingers.

For now though it's nice out, we will be driving it around as much as possible.

Well done

[yawood]

Originally Posted by hawgsalot

Ok it appears you guys know way more about this than I so need a little follow up on this thread. My cart is 04 Precedent and I was using a cheap reducer that went from 48v pack negative, 48v positive with fuse to the reducer. Then from the positive and negative to radio. All I need is radio and the lights are running off a in dash OEM reducer that doesn't turn off with key.

The way I had the radio reducer sparked like hell when hooking up which I don't like! I'm upgrading to a new Alltrax 400a controller this weekend so want to prewire new converter.

My first question is my radio turned off to the key switch with my setup above, how is that since I didn't have the reducer wired though the key switch much less have a relay?

Second question concerning new wiring. Do I need to come off B- off the new Alltrax 400a controller for the 48v negative. Then off the 48v pack positive to a relay, then to key switch, then to converter. Is this correct?

The way you describe it you have two reducers (an OEM and a cheap one, neither wired through the key switch) is that correct? Also you have the radio connected to the cheap reducer and the lights connected to the OEM reducer. Is that correct? An OEM reducer would normally be wired through the key switch. Are you sure that yours is not?

[19thHole]

Great thread. Just what I was looking for. I just joined today as I am just starting to add to my brand new second hand Precedent.
Edit: reading further on other threads has me thinking - do I bin my 4 wire reducer (like the one being installed here) and get a better one now or should I continue the install following the instructions above?
I'm looking at stereo, light bar, rear lights, horn, usb charge point and internal light.
Thanks in advance.

[yawood]

Originally Posted by 19thHole

Great thread. Just what I was looking for. I just joined today as I am just starting to add to my brand new second hand Precedent.
Edit: reading further on other threads has me thinking - do I bin my 4 wire reducer (like the one being installed here) and get a better one now or should I continue the install following the instructions above?
I'm looking at stereo, light bar, rear lights, horn, usb charge point and internal light.
Thanks in advance.

It really depends on what you want to do. The 5-wire reducers are definitely the best and the ones from Scotty or David are very good quality. That said, I have a 4-wire one I bought on Ebay (I tried to find one that sounded like it was OK and it wasn't just the cheapest I could find). I have wired mine through the key switch with a relay and a separate switch (I'm sure you've seen my diagrams somewhere) and all the 12V circuits go through a fuse box and negative buss. It has been working like that for about three years now and bouncing around on the golf course all that time and it still works perfectly. I also use it to charge my phone and my Garmin GPS every time I play.

The 5-wire ones are easier to install and the 4-wire ones will need the additional expense of a relay or switch (or both).

So, it's your choice really but either way I would get a 30A one rather than the 10 or 20 amp because you'll need it for what you want to run.

[19thHole]

Originally Posted by yawood

It really depends on what you want to do. The 5-wire reducers are definitely the best and the ones from Scotty or David are very good quality. ....

So, it's your choice really but either way I would get a 30A one rather than the 10 or 20 amp because you'll need it for what you want to run.

You've sold me. Now I'm in Melbourne. Who and where are these sellers of fine reducers Scotty and Dave. How do I contact them.
Cheers.

[jakesnake27]

Originally Posted by 19thHole

You've sold me. Now I'm in Melbourne. Who and where are these sellers of fine reducers Scotty and Dave. How do I contact them.
Cheers.

Scottyb owns Carts Unlimited and TahoeDawgZ71 (Dave) owns Revolution Golf Cars. Both are site sponsors and you can't go wrong with either one. Click on 'Site Sponsors' at the top of the page to find their websites.