Club Car Precedent Surging

[JWreck]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

You need to measure the actual voltage while the car is giving you problems. Put your multimeter on the battery pack with some alligator clips. The positive lead on the main positive terminal and the negative lead on the main negative lead. Drive it and watch your voltage. Make note of the total voltage when the car starts giving you trouble. That will help us to figure out exactly what's going on. Resting voltage doesn't mean anything.

Is there a recommended test lead to use based on the amps being put out? I have a Fluke but just the probes, and thought about picking up some alligator clips anyway but a lot of them are high voltage low amps (10-15amps).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Fairtax4me]

Pretty much any alligator clips will work for a 48v system.
A voltmeter does not draw any current (amps) from the points where it is measuring. A voltmeter shows the ability of electricity to move, but not how much is moving, so amps are sort of irrelevant to voltage in this regard. The amp rating is useful to know, but is not going to affect your voltage measurement with a digital voltmeter.

All a voltmeter is doing is comparing the voltage difference between the two points where the leads are attached. Think of it sort of like a pressure gauge on a manifold. You're measuring the pressure of the system without actually using any of that pressure. It's not going anywhere, it's just pushing the needle.

The ampere rating of the leads is really only important if you plan to test current flow or amps with your meter. In which case, it really doesn't matter that much since the meter will probably be limited to only about 10 amps since majority of meters will only measure 10 amps without blowing the internal fuse, or blowing up. Amps are current. They're the measure of how much electricity is moving in the circuit, which is entirely different than voltage.
When the meter is set for Voltage, there is zero Amp flow (current) in the meter. The voltmeter is not part of the circuit, it's just sitting on the side watching basically.

That said, cheapo leads can cause problems with inaccurate readings. Use Genuine Fluke leads with your meter, and they'll give you accurate results and probably last longer than you will.

[teecro]

Originally Posted by JWreck

Is there a recommended test lead to use based on the amps being put out? I have a Fluke but just the probes, and thought about picking up some alligator clips anyway but a lot of them are high voltage low amps (10-15amps).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your not pulling any amps when you are testing voltage with a multi-meter.

[Hayterbp]

I’m thinking there is a battery issue in here somewhere based off the responses and how quickly the Battery light is coming on after the ERIC charger is saying fully charged.

I had access to several Trojan batteries that were reading much higher and installed them today. At a rest with the “new” batteries uncharged the whole pack was reading 50+. I’m going to charge it 16+ hours and then ride it around tomorrow and see if the issue still exists. If it does I will get a reading while moving.