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Electric Club Car Electric DS, and Precedent golf cars |
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07-15-2020, 06:57 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 4
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1996 48V DS Headlight and horn wiring problem
Headllights and tail/brake lights used to work on my 1996 48V DS. Last winter the headlight switch locked up and would not pull out so I replaced it with a new switch.
Batteries and terminals are clean, no corrosion. I get 51V normally a few hours off charge. Cart runs fine and I have normal speed for a stock cart. The headlight/tail light auxiliary circuit is maybe a factory install. I say this because the voltage limiter is installed to the frame just to the rear of the #4 battery. A fuse block is just behind the #4 battery on the frame crossmember. Each fuse (three) are rated 20 amps and test OK. The fuse block is fed with a red 12 gauge wire from the positive post on the #5 battery, I get 17 volts from there to pack negative. A ground block is mounted to the frame where a pair of black wires from the voltage limiter terminates. I get 14V from the red wire to the ground block which tells me the voltage limiter is working. The ground block also has a pair of black #16 wires that go into a cable bundle. Exiting the fuse block are a light yellow about #14 along with a solid blue, green/white and red/white, these look like #16 and go into a cable bundle towards the front of the cart. I have no voltage at the headlights so my next project is pull the aftermarket dash panel and look at the wire color on the switch and check for voltage there. My horn does not work, removed the switch and it was open and would not close when depressed so I replaced that switch, still no horn. I have thought that my problem could be common to the horn and headlights both, possibly losing a negative return? I spent 40 years in the mining industry as an electrical engineer on underground machinery so I am familiar with trouble shooting steps. Looking for suggestions from cart wiring gurus. TIA Nick |
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07-16-2020, 04:25 AM | #2 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 73
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Re: 1996 48V DS Headlight and horn wiring problem
Are there any other 12v accy's that do work? My first step would be to verify operation of the reducer. Not by measuring voltage but by checking for operation of the reducer. Just because you have voltage doesn't mean you have current flow.
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07-16-2020, 09:11 AM | #3 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Queensland Australia
Posts: 1,332
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Re: 1996 48V DS Headlight and horn wiring problem
That reducer sounds like a 16V to 12V reducer which is taking its power from two batteries. This is possibly OEM but my advice is to swap the reducer out for a 48V to 12V unit as soon as you are finished fixing the immediate problem. Drawing power from only two batteries is not good for the balance of the pack.
In the meantime use the existing reducer to run some tests. I would disconnect the +ve and -ve wires from the reducer output (12V side) and run some temporary wires from the + and - of the reducer to the back of the lights and again to the back of the horn. Disconnect the existing wires from them before you attach the temporaries. We are testing to make sure that there isn't a short in the original wires somewhere. If they work then you know that your original wiring is not working because of a broken wire or a bad connection or two somewhere. If they still do not work then there must be something wrong with the reducer or the fused distributor. Repeat the test with your temporary wires connected to the lights side of the fuse box. You can also test the lights and horn themselves by just hooking them to a 12V car battery. Once you know that the lights and horn do work and that they work with your temporary wires then you can start following the original wiring to find out where the problem is. Don't forget that, unlike a car, the -ve should not use the chassis as an earth. There should be separate +ve and -ve wires going back to the reducer (via the fused distributor). Good luck and happy hunting. |
07-16-2020, 10:50 AM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 4
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Re: 1996 48V DS Headlight and horn wiring problem
Bruce,
That was my very next test, disconnect the voltage limiter and test with an alternate 12VDC source, separate from the cart wiring of course. The OEM reducer is in the -ve leg only, black wire from the common -point and another to the -ve on the Curtis controller. Testing to this point has been with existing wiring because it all worked last year, horn and lights both. The cart sat in a storage facility for 6 months and would not move under it's own power. I replaced two of my original Interstate batteries as they were over 6 years old and not able to fully charge. I now have four Duracell's that are four years old and two that are new. I have a 48 to 12v converter that should arrive today for installation after I determine where my wiring problem lies. NismoGriff, I have no other 12v accessories so that direction is a dead end. Tracing wiring from the battery compartment to the dash with a separate 12V source is the next step. Heat index here is 100 for the next few days so it's going to be a morning project for sure. Thanks to both for your response. |
07-16-2020, 06:00 PM | #5 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Queensland Australia
Posts: 1,332
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Re: 1996 48V DS Headlight and horn wiring problem
You're certainly on the right track.
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07-16-2020, 06:13 PM | #6 | |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 73
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Re: 1996 48V DS Headlight and horn wiring problem
Quote:
Man, I have a garage full of junk that runs off 12v that I could try lol. I was thinking maybe the old unit went bad and allowed full pack voltage to the two switches that went bad. I'm new to the golf cart stuff although no stranger to 12v stuff. |
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07-30-2020, 07:00 AM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 4
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Re: 1996 48V DS Headlight and horn wiring problem
Replaced headlight switch and horn button. Tested with 12V power supply and all works.
Removed original fuse block-fully corroded and replaced with new fuse block. Added 48v to 12v converter using original wiring. Will reinstall batteries today and smoke test. The only remaining circuits to test are tail/brake lights. Glad to be close to completion of this project. Nick |
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