97 club car 48 volt not moving.

[Shooter111]

Hello everyone. I’ve tested everything on this golf cart and cannot get it to move. Replaced solenoid because it wasn’t clicking so I figured it was that. Now it clicks but nothing happens. Jumped the motor and it spins sluggish and only in reverse no matter how you put the cables. Tested controller and I have full power on b+ b- when tested together. Also tested from m to battery negative and also have full voltage. Tested b+ on motor and full power is heading into motor but nothing. Can this mean my motor is shot.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Continuity and Motor Testing:
If you want test the motor do this Continuity Test first. Disconnect the pack and then all the cables from the motor. (Be sure to double wrench every motor post/stud when breaking them lose or you may break them off. Spray them down with penetrating oil prior to doing it). If you have a Series motor it will have S1/S2 instead of F1/F2.

Get out your DVM and set it to the Continuity setting and:
- Test between A1 and A2 (Beep)
- Test between F1 and F2 (Beep)
- Test between A1 and F1 (No Beep)
- Test between A1 to Motor Case (No Beep)
- Test between F1 to Motor Case (No Beep)

If all those are correct as stated above then you can test the motor:

To test run a Series motor:
With all cables removed from the motor, jack the cart up at the rear and connect a jumper from A1 to S1. Then connect 12 volts positive to A2 and 12 volts negative to S2. (swap S1 and S2 to change rotation direction) You may want to have a disconnect switch in-line with the power supply as some do and some do not....

[Shooter111]

Ok all tested and motor spins but only in reverse. Cannot get it to spin forward even when swapping cables. I also just replaced the f&n switch just in case it but no change. Solenoid clicks when pedal pressed but no movement. Can you help me test my controller I have a Curtis 1204-410

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by Shooter111

Ok all tested and motor spins but only in reverse. Cannot get it to spin forward even when swapping cables. I also just replaced the f&n switch just in case it but no change. Solenoid clicks when pedal pressed but no movement. Can you help me test my controller I have a Curtis 1204-410

I have never had a motor that would run in only one direction when testing.

I would figure out what is going on with that before trying to test the controller. The best way to test it for 99.99% of us is in the cart with a working motor.

[Shooter111]

Ok but how would I even start to figure out why it only runs in one direction. That’s why I’m here looking for answers from the pros. I mean when I said I tried everything I’ve tried everything. Controller is still on the cart and I’m getting full power going in and out. What else can I do to test controller.

[movin-on]

If you did all the tests that Nole stated and it still only ran in reverse then there has to be something wrong inside the motor...The controller in a series cart does not know forward from reverse...

[Shooter111]

I agree that the controller doesn’t know forward or reverse. But shouldn’t The cart move forward or reverse which ever way it’s able to go while is fully connected

[Sergio]

If it is a Series cart then just swaping the power connections will not cause the motor to change directions.

You need to change the current direction between the two windings.

If You have the motor running in one direction, just swap the A1 and A2 or the S1 and S2 connections (either set but not both) and it will run in the opposite direction.

The correct Controller test is meter positive lead on M- and meter negative lead on B-.

It should be pack voltage as soon as the Solenoid clicks and go down to 0V when the pedal is fully depressed.

Running in a single direction only on a Series cart is either a bad FNR high current problem or a reverse micro-switch in the FNR causing throttle problems in reverse.

[Shooter111]

Ok so I tried the controller test but as soon as I touch the probes on M- and B- I’m at full power at 53.4 without touching the pedal. Then when pedal pressed solenoid clicks and goes up to 54.2. So what does it mean ?

[Sergio]

Those readings are correct and indicate a properly working Solenoid and pre-charge resistor.

Does the voltage between M- and B- go down as You press the pedal?

If the voltage on M- to B- does not go down and you have verified the voltage on the throttle signal on the yellow wire on Controller terminal #3 goes up to over 4.65v when the pedal is down, that means your controller is bad and needs to be replaced.