Club car precedent will not turn on

[clubcarfl]

I have a Precedent which has fairly new batteries (measures 50v across) and was intermittently running and then just one day stopped. Not even the low voltage items will come on.

I thought it might be the starter switch and I replaced it. Did not fix the issue.

[anpgator]

When you say starter switch, are we talking about the ignition?


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[clubcarfl]

Originally Posted by anpgator

When you say starter switch, are we talking about the ignition?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

big typo on my part, yes ignition.

The reverse buzzer does not sound, nothing.

I checked with a volt meter and the starter is receiving the 46V

[PingEye3]

There is no starter on an electric cart. And the terminology is key switch not ignition, that is for gas carts. Sounds like no power to tow/run.
Assuming later than 2008 with 6-8V batts. Pull motor inspection cover, then drop down the controller cover and check the 15A fuse to see if it has blown. Should be on left side under the solenoid.

[clubcarfl]

It is a 2014 48V precedent, yes key switch

I checked the fuse and it looked fine. I tested the solenoid by hooking it up to the lower voltage side and hooked up one of the 8V batteries to the two mains.

I did not hear any click nor did the meter detect any continuity.

If the solenoid was bad, could it really prevent the golf cart from powering on anything?

[meimk]

If you are saying you are losing accessories like lights and horn (if your cart has them) it would sound more like a bad connection: lose, corrosion, pitted. How are your "low voltage" items hooked up? Do you have a 48 to 12 reducer or just wired to part of the battery pack?

[clubcarfl]

Originally Posted by meimk

If you are saying you are losing accessories like lights and horn (if your cart has them) it would sound more like a bad connection: lose, corrosion, pitted. How are your "low voltage" items hooked up? Do you have a 48 to 12 reducer or just wired to part of the battery pack?

Here is how I was testing the solenoid

I do have a reducer

[meimk]

Originally Posted by clubcarfl

Here is how I was testing the solenoid

I do have a reducer

You might be looking at this backwards. The small terminals activate the circuit through those big terminals. If that solenoid closed the circuit like that you would short across that battery the same as if you held a wrench across the battery. With the solenoid in the cart: one of the small terminals should go to ground and the other get 48 volts from the key switch - when the key switch is on and the pedal depressed enough to trigger the switch in the MCOR. Even if you had those leads on the small terminals the 8 volts would not be enough to engage the solenoid.
That said, if you have a reducer and both reducer & the drive system are not getting power it is almost certainly a "big cable" connection problem. Make sure all those connections are clean & properly tightened (only about 8ft/lbs) from the B- on the controller, through the OBC, battery pack (-), each terminal of every battery in the pack, Pack (+) to solenoid (big terminal) and on to the controller. For both the reducer and the drive system to go out at the same time it about has to be in that "big cable" circuit.

[DaveMJ]

Originally Posted by meimk

You might be looking at this backwards. The small terminals activate the circuit through those big terminals. If that solenoid closed the circuit like that you would short across that battery the same as if you held a wrench across the battery. With the solenoid in the cart: one of the small terminals should go to ground and the other get 48 volts from the key switch - when the key switch is on and the pedal depressed enough to trigger the switch in the MCOR. Even if you had those leads on the small terminals the 8 volts would not be enough to engage the solenoid.
That said, if you have a reducer and both reducer & the drive system are not getting power it is almost certainly a "big cable" connection problem. Make sure all those connections are clean & properly tightened (only about 8ft/lbs) from the B- on the controller, through the OBC, battery pack (-), each terminal of every battery in the pack, Pack (+) to solenoid (big terminal) and on to the controller. For both the reducer and the drive system to go out at the same time it about has to be in that "big cable" circuit.

Photo angle makes it difficult to see, but if I zoom in I think I can see blade terminals, so he may be connecting the correct side of the solenoid. My question would then be - is 8V sufficient to pull in the solenoid?

[clubcarfl]

That is correct, the blades are where my connection to the batteries are.

Interesting point about the amount of volts required to activate it.