Running out of options.

[jabber]

I have a 1993 Medalist that has virtually no power going up hill. I have replaced batteries, contoller, motor, and potentiometer. No improvement. What should be checked next?

[fishb8]

You have replaced all those parts?

how does it run on flat street? Only other thing I could think of would be the F&R switch.

[Coltf1991]

We need more info about the cart. What motor? What controller? Programmable? WhT cables? What drive system? Stock fnr? Wheels tires? Lift? What batteries? Battery pack voltage?

Just tell everything you can about it.

[JohnnieB]

As mentioned by fishb8: F/R Switch.
Plus:
Corroded Connections.
Cables corroded and/or too small
Brakes dragging
Wheel bearings stiff.

What manufacturer and model batteries are you using? (Six 6V deep cycle golf cart batteries hopefully)
What is the battery pack Voltage? (38.2V is fully charged for a 36V system)
How steep is the hill?
How many passengers?

Sitting in the cart that is sitting on a hard level surface, you should be able to place one hand on ground and move cart.
If not, you've go excessive mechanical drag someplace.

If the pack voltage is less than about 37.5, it won't do hills very well.

Clip a DVM on battery pack and place meter where you can monitor while driving.
What does the voltage drop to on level ground?
What does it drop to an a hill?

[jabber]

The batteries are new NAPA batteries specifically for carts.

It doesn't seem to matter how many people are in the cart. I bogs down in any case.

I will check the pack voltage.

I will also use the "mechanical drag" check. I don't think it moves very easily. Should it be in neutral or does it matter if it is in F or R?

How can the F & R switch affect performance?

I don't have the cart here at the house but will check those items when I get to it in a couple of weeks. (IF there's no snow on the ground.)

Thanks so far for all the advice.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by jabber

The batteries are new NAPA batteries specifically for carts.
Hopefully they have a rated capacity @ 75 Amps of at least 115 minutes or more.

It doesn't seem to matter how many people are in the cart. I bogs down in any case.

I will check the pack voltage.

I will also use the "mechanical drag" check. I don't think it moves very easily. Should it be in neutral or does it matter if it is in F or R?
Motor is always mechanically engaged. Pedal up and key off for safety, and parking brake disengaged, but other that that, it doesn't matter.
How can the F & R switch affect performance?
Total drive current flows through the F/R switch.

I don't have the cart here at the house but will check those items when I get to it in a couple of weeks. (IF there's no snow on the ground.)

Thanks so far for all the advice.

Here's a generic diagram of a series motor cart showing only the high current drive circuit.
Your cart probably doesn't have the cable from A2 on the controller to A2 on the motor and maybe not the high current fuse, but the rest is the same.

Any significant amount of resistance (Typically caused by loose or corroded contacts/connections) anywhere in the high current drive circuit will cause a significant voltage drop when current passes through that resistance (Ohm's Law) and produce the symptom you described in your first post.

So far you've replaced the Battery pack, controller and motor. That leaves the Solenoid, F/R Switch and high current cables, which probably should have been replaced first, unless the batteries, controller and/or motor actually tested bad.

If original stock cables, you probable have 6Ga cables with open ended crimp on connectors that allow corrosion to migrate into the expose strands of copper. When you replace them, get at least 4Ga with closed end terminal lugs that are sealed between the lug an cable insulation since the air under seat has acid in it. Also replace all of them. I think there is about 13 or 14 of them, but I might be wrong, I don't have a series cart.

All electric carts slow down on hills, but with the right components you can get a Medalist with a series motor to do wheelies.

[jabber]

Johnny B

Appreciate the great detailed response you provided. It was very informative. I will be able to check the cart in a about a week. Can't wait to see what works. You have offered me renewed hope. I'm not certain I am asking the right questions since I know very little about electric carts.

Thanks again to you and all who took the time to help. Hopefully I won't need to ask again but if I do I know where to go.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by jabber

...........................
1........... I'm not certain I am asking the right questions...............
2........... I know very little about electric carts.......................
3........... Hopefully I won't need to ask again but if I do I know where to go............

1. The only dumb questions are the ones not asked.
2. In the beginning, none of us knew anything about carts, but we learned - as you are now.
3. See answer # 1.

Last but not least:
Don't be a stranger.
Let us know how how things turn out.
Post pictures of cart.

[Coltf1991]

John is the exception to this. Who knows everything about everything. But lets restate is sentence:

2. In the beginning 99.999999999999% of us knew nothing about carts(JohhnieB is the .0000000001 that did)

[JohnnieB]

Keep that up, Colton, and my tinfoil hat will no longer fit, so my bald spot will either get sunburn or frostbite depending on the way climate change leans.

My original statement is true! I actually didn't know anything about golf carts until I bought a used one.
I just happened to have known a lot of stuff about a lot of things that also happens to apply to golf carts.