something shorted out

[JohnnieB]

If I understand what you are saying correctly, you are not getting full battery pack voltage between B- and A1 when the solenoid contacts are closed.

Connect the DVM negative test lead to the battery pack's main negative post and leave it there.
Attach the DVM's positive test lead to the solenoid's battery side big terminal.
If you get full pack voltage there, move positive test lead to controller side big terminal and press pedal until solenoid clocks.
If the voltage does not jump to full pack voltage and you are hearing the solenoid click (more of a clunk), the solenoid is bad.

[devybob]

I connected my DVM negative to my main negative post,and the positive to solenoids big terminal but get no voltage there. By the way I believe when I press my pedal down the click I hear is not strong, and just might be a switch I hear a not a solenoid clicking.

[JohnnieB]

The solenoid has two big terminals. One should full pack voltage on it all the time because it is connected directly to the main positive post on the battery pack.
The other big terminal on solenoid will only have pack voltage on it when the solenoid contacts are closed.

---------------
If the solenoid isn't clunking, it is a whole new ballgame.

With the DVM's negative test lead connected to the packs main negative use the DVM's positive test lead to measure the voltage at the following Pins on the controller with all the plugs in place.
With Run/Tow in Run, F/R in F, Keyswitch ON and pedal pushed, you should have pack voltage at the following:
J1 Pins 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 & 9
J3 Pins 1, 2, 3 & 4
J2 Pins 1 & 2
If any of the voltages are missing, check the wires, connections and switches connected to that pin.

[devybob]

Here are my readings
J1 pin1 and 3= 00.1
pin4 and 5= 44.5
pin6,8 and 9 =00.1

J3 1,2,3,and 4 =44.5

j2 1 and 2 = 00.3

[JohnnieB]

Your controller is bad.

The source for each of the missing voltages is the controller, so its internal power supplies are blown.

[devybob]

Thanks for your invaluable help! Now my search for a controller begins.Like I mentioned before, the controller I have on there (curtis 73326G07) but the manual says it is for a 36 volt but it worked great until I screwed it up.I wonder if that's why the resistor was never connected.The controller was replaced before and It's a lot less money than the altrax DCX400PDS but if you feel it's the right one,I"ll go with it. Thanks again for your help.

[JohnnieB]

I would go with the same controller.

PM, E-mail or call Scottb at Carts unlimited. He is familiar with Western carts and has what you need.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html

Or contact any of the BGW site sponsors.
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/site-sponsors.php

[devybob]

I thought you said that you would go to the altrex dcx400pds when I asked about 36v or 42v in another thread. Is there a way to put some kind of fuse in the line so I don't fry another controller,as you know the're not cheap.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by devybob

I thought you said that you would go to the altrex dcx400pds when I asked about 36v or 42v in another thread. Is there a way to put some kind of fuse in the line so I don't fry another controller,as you know the're not cheap.

I did, but if you don't need a programmable controller and 300A will satisfy your needs, a NCX300 might work out okay for you and they are less expensive.

I recommended talking with scottyb because I've bought several things from Carts Unlimited and he has always treated me well, and his shop is just up the road a few miles from where Western Carts are made, so he has seen a few of them.

I just troubleshoot electrical stuff mostly and don't know all the ins and outs about what controllers work best for what applications, but I am putting seven 6V batteries (42V) and a DCX400PDS in my cart. It was the #808B package with the Super-Duty solenoid and it came with a fuse.

[scottyb]

Johnnie is right. All of the Western carts came with upgraded electronics and motors to give improved performance while dealing with the added weight associated with the Western body kits. A Pkg # 808 would be the perfect match. They may cost more but they will outlast anything else and carry a 3 yr manufactures warranty.