Rear bearings getting noisy?

[yurtle]

I don't know the proper name, but the input bearing spins the same speed as the motor, and probably gets hot, as it's connected to the motor.

If you remember the failure, it went from really fast to completely locked up. May have experienced some unusual stresses due to a motor that locked up with a fast heavy load.

[yurtle]

In essence, the rear-end became the brake.

EDIT: I forgot your buggy does regen, so the rear-end does experience "some" braking.

[JohnnieB]

I pulled the plastic panel that covers the motor/differential and now I'm about 99.999% sure the noise is coming from the differential.

Looks like I'm going to be learning more than I ever wanted to know about a Spicer rear end.

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The tag on it says Spicer, but the company is Dana-Spicer or Spicer-Dana, so it is probably the same as the Dana. I can't make out the Spicer part number in any of my pictures, but I'll get it and do a search for a manual.

Rebuilding a differential is probably going to be beyond my physical abilities, so I'll have to find someplace that can do it for me and not rip me off too much, or screw the job too badly.

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On the brighter side, this would be a good time to change the gear ratio.
Is there anything out there between the stock 12.44:1 and 8:1?

I don't want/need more speed, but I've got stock height tires and want to keep the max RPM below 6.5k, so something in the 10:1 neighborhood would be nice.

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I had my hand on the top of the differential feeling for the noise source and was surprised by how much it rotated when I pushed the pedal, and I was being gentle. No clunking like a broken spring hanger or bad inserts, so the springs are probably "snaking" quite a bit during hard acceleration.

I don't remember what they are called, but on cars we used to attach a solid bar between the front of the leaf spring and where the axle housing attached to eliminate spring snaking and wheel hop.

IIRC. I saw the golf cart version in a TerryH's pictures.
What are those things called and were can you get them?

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

On the brighter side, this would be a good time to change the gear ratio.
Is there anything out there between the stock 12.44:1 and 8:1?

I don't want/need more speed, but I've got stock height tires and want to keep the max RPM below 6.5k, so something in the 10:1 neighborhood would be nice.

------------

I don't remember what they are called, but on cars we used to attach a solid bar between the front of the leaf spring and where the axle housing attached to eliminate spring snaking and wheel hop.

IIRC. I saw the golf cart version in a TerryH's pictures.
What are those things called and were can you get them?

not that it truly means a lot.....but I have never seen, and I have looked, for something between 12.44 and 8, but never found anything.

Are you are referring to a "PAN HARD BAR"?

[yurtle]

I would think rebuilding it wouldn't be too physically challenging. Wrestling it in and out is the hard part. I think I jacked it up and used ratchet straps to get mine in and out. Beyond that, it can be slid around pretty easily, once the motor's off.

I replaced every seal and bearing on mine, and did most of the work sitting on the floor.

[yurtle]

Here's the manual I used:

Dana Axle:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...5-28148g01.pdf

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by yurtle

I would think rebuilding it wouldn't be too physically challenging. Wrestling it in and out is the hard part. I think I jacked it up and used ratchet straps to get mine in and out. Beyond that, it can be slid around pretty easily, once the motor's off.

I replaced every seal and bearing on mine, and did most of the work sitting on the floor.

well, this would work, and how I would do it, as I have done this taking a complete VW engine out. all you really need is a nice floor jack that has a large 7" or so plate/cup, as mine does.

obviously put the cart up on stands. taking the motor off would make it easier, take the wheels off. roll the jack under the gear case and snug it up. unbolt the axle from the suspension. have some helping hands to steady it and lower it down. roll it away.

I used a similar method to install my new motor.... just placed the jack under the motor, unbolted it, let it down....it only took an hour start to finish to replace my motor.

[kernal]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

not that it truly means a lot.....but I have never seen, and I have looked, for something between 12.44 and 8, but never found anything.

What you are referring to is called a "PAN HARD BAR"

A panhard bar locates the axle laterally. "Traction bars" help reduce leaf spring warpage under acceleration.

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by kernal

A panhard bar locates the axle laterally. "Traction bars" help reduce leaf spring warpage under acceleration.

true enough......but there ya go!! PICTURES!!!! lol

worth a thousand words!

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by Sir Nuke

well, this would work, and how I would do it, as I have done this taking a complete VW engine out. all you really need is a nice floor jack that has a large 7" or so plate/cup, as mine does.

obviously put the cart up on stands. taking the motor off would make it easier, take the wheels off. roll the jack under the gear case and snug it up. unbolt the axle from the suspension. have some helping hands to steady it and lower it down. roll it away.

I used a similar method to install my new motor.... just placed the jack under the motor, unbolted it, let it down....it only took an hour start to finish to replace my motor.

I used the ratchet straps to lower and raise the rear-end. Kinda slow, but very controllable.