Sound like a bad controller on a 2000 DS 48v?

[hannon70]

*****REVISED RESULTS AFTER CLEANING POSTS:****

Check controller input voltage. Red lead on B+ Post of controller, Black lead on B- post of controller. With vehicle lifted into the air and tires off of the ground depress accel pedal. Car will begin to run. You should see full battery voltage on the multimeter as soon as the solenoid clicks. If you don't, let me know. You're not getting full power to your controller and we will figure out why. If you see full voltage, move on...
***50.4v across batteries, 48.8 before accelerator is pressed, 50v after solenoid clicks. Full throttle=48.1v

Check controller output. Remove the #6 gauge white wire from the A2 post of the motor and secure it so that it cannot make contact with any live components or connections.. Put red lead on B+ post of controller. Black lead on M- post of controller. Gradually increase throttle. At full throttle you should see full battery voltage of car. If you do, your controller is working fine. If you don't, move on...
***27v when throttle is up, then when petal is pressed 50v, stays at 50v from solenoid clicking until all the way down

Check throttle signal to controller. Locate the small wires plugged into the blade terminals of the controller. Un-plug the Green and Yellow wires. Insert probes of the multimeter into the ends of these wires. Polarity is not important. Set multimeter to 20K ohms. With F&R lever in Forward gradually increase throttle. You should see approximately 5000 ohms at zero throttle and 0 ohms at full throttle. Post results. 5.6k ohms down to 0 ohms.

[hannon70]

I have heard that a bad diode on the solenoid can hurt the controller. True?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by hannon70

I have heard that a bad diode on the solenoid can hurt the controller. True?

True. But it doesn't sound like your controller is hurt based on the numbers you gave me. I would advise taking the motor apart and inspecting the brushes just so you can rule that out as a possibility. Back to the controller issue, you claim that it loses power "quickly". Does that mean that it runs normally for a while and then begins to weaken? If so, do the controller output test again after the car has started operating slowly. Your controller may be losing output once it heats up. I've seen this a time or two, but it's rare. Sorry it took so long to reply. It's the week of the Masters golf tournament in Augusta and I've been pulling my hair out.

[steele]

I don`t want to steel a thread ,But I`m having the sam problems with a club car 2000 ds NOT Mcor. Replaced all the throttle parts . Shaft and frame brkts with bushings. So all that is ok Batts ok Throttle pot shows 7.84 =pedal at rest 7.21just as it clicks the micro switch and 1.11 at floor.Would this be the low speed and low power ? It Don'chang as it get heated up stays same all the time. Thanks Rick

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by steele

I don`t want to steel a thread ,But I`m having the sam problems with a club car 2000 ds NOT Mcor. Replaced all the throttle parts . Shaft and frame brkts with bushings. So all that is ok Batts ok Throttle pot shows 7.84 =pedal at rest 7.21just as it clicks the micro switch and 1.11 at floor.Would this be the low speed and low power ? It Don'chang as it get heated up stays same all the time. Thanks Rick

Good talking with you on the phone. Glad we fixed your issues! Have a good day Rick.

[hannon70]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

True. But it doesn't sound like your controller is hurt based on the numbers you gave me. I would advise taking the motor apart and inspecting the brushes just so you can rule that out as a possibility. Back to the controller issue, you claim that it loses power "quickly". Does that mean that it runs normally for a while and then begins to weaken? If so, do the controller output test again after the car has started operating slowly. Your controller may be losing output once it heats up. I've seen this a time or two, but it's rare. Sorry it took so long to reply. It's the week of the Masters golf tournament in Augusta and I've been pulling my hair out.

TahoeDawgZ71, I ended up cleaning all of the posts and cable terminals to the motor before running it down. It seems that the problem lied within there because it works fine now. None of them seemed loose or corroded, just a little oxidized. Thanks!

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Excellent

[hannon70]

Uh Oh! I drove about 5 miles (fine). Then coming home it worked for 1/2 mile, then went about 5mph for 1 mile then went back to full speed for the rest of the trip, about 3 miles.
I now remember before when the cart was going slow last week, the orange wire from the fwd/rev switch was hot? It was warm this time. Thoughts?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

You need to do the throttle test and controller output test while the car is failing. That will tell you your answer