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Electric Club Car Electric DS, and Precedent golf cars |
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12-13-2020, 08:40 AM | #11 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 44
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Re: Solid state conversion and 36 to 48 volt
I almost mounted my angle support like you did under the frame. but chose to mount on top and bolt in, I did however have to add 2 washers under the front bolts on the controller to make level and not cause a bind.
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12-13-2020, 08:47 AM | #12 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Central Florida
Posts: 211
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Re: Solid state conversion and 36 to 48 volt
I debated on leveling the controller. I still might. i used the added support to mount my voltage reducer as well. We are adding the street legal LED light kit as well. I was not going to swap the motor but ran into a speed bump and decided to change it. I am glad I did. The motor bearing in the one I took out is really rough feeling. I would suggest the motor swap as well if you are able.
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12-13-2020, 09:13 AM | #13 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 44
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Re: Solid state conversion and 36 to 48 volt
I did the full Scotty upgrade- 500 amp and motor with cables, may have running today.. No rush for me. Still have to mount my 48 to 12v reducer, all new lights and wiring and lift and side skirts.
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12-14-2020, 08:03 PM | #14 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Central Florida
Posts: 211
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Re: Solid state conversion and 36 to 48 volt
So i was able to get to the wire mock up, the foot pedal install, FnR rocker switch wired up and my 48 volt batteries arrived. Now to pick up new battery cables and i can check it out to be sure its all correct and running.
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12-14-2020, 09:10 PM | #15 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 44
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Re: Solid state conversion and 36 to 48 volt
look for my posts and build, similar to yours
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12-19-2020, 04:48 PM | #16 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Central Florida
Posts: 211
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Re: Solid state conversion and 36 to 48 volt
so i am at the point where im trying things out to be sure its all hooked up correct.
Scotty B i may need your input on this. with everything hooked up according to the diagram I am getting a heavy clicking in both forward and reverse on the switch (not yet snapped into the case) but then nothing at the wheel. I checked the LED on the alltrax for code(s) and this is what i get. 3-green then 1-green and 6-red. The 3 green is 0-5 V throttle and the 1-green and 6-red is pre-charge failure. I've looked over the schematic diagram to be sure all the wires are connected where and how they are supposed to be. It all seems to be in place. I am sure it must be something simple at this point. Any input is greatly appreciated. just trying to get it running before Christmas. and i still need to hook up lights, back seat etc. but first things first get it to run. |
12-20-2020, 06:55 AM | #17 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: S.E. Mi.
Posts: 531
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Re: Solid state conversion and 36 to 48 volt
This thread might help your troubleshooting .
https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=163973 |
12-20-2020, 07:47 AM | #18 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 44
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Re: Solid state conversion and 36 to 48 volt
double check you wires at the solinoid and reversing contactors. Also double check your cables to the motor. Be sure to use the correct wiring diagram scotty sent, there are 2 sides and you can easily flip it and not realize it, there are differences.
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12-20-2020, 08:57 AM | #19 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Central Florida
Posts: 211
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Re: Solid state conversion and 36 to 48 volt
thanks for the link handtools and for the input sycraft. i will check later today and report back what happened or didn't happen.
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12-20-2020, 06:24 PM | #20 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Central Florida
Posts: 211
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Re: Solid state conversion and 36 to 48 volt
Ok so I feel like a total idiot. but what's new.
I made sure which schematic I was following. Apparently i was following both Scotty B's and the Alltrax one. The main difference was the location of the motor wires. once i realized i had used a combination of the two i put away the Alltrax one and made a checklist from Scotty B's instruction schematics. I broke it down into several parts and which wires should be hooked to where. Some of it was repetitive but it worked out. I used the go pedal, motor, solenoid, reversing contactor, and then the controller for my isolation points. I did swap some of the motor wires on the reversing contactor. and when I got to the solenoid i realized I had an extra wire from the large post on the negative side of the solenoid to the negative post on the battery pack. Why I still haven't figured out but I removed it from the equation and now it works like a charm. The icing on the cake was the FnR switch was in the correct position (f to forward and r to reverse when switch in that position) so I had to just snap it in place. lol Now I have to finish the street legal wiring and lights install. Hook up the digital volt meter that came with the conversion kit and put the new back seat on and finish putting it all back together. I want to thank everyone who provided any and all input and Scotty B for the kit. I hope this thread helps someone else in the same boat. piece of advice would be simply just use Scotty's instruction schematic and put away out of sight the Alltrax book so not to mix anything up. - If I can't laugh at myself someone else will LOL |
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