Any EZGO TXT experts out there?

[msporter10]

Just realized I had this under the wrong topic thread.

So the short story is I have a 2000 EZGO TXT series cart. I have a upgrade motor, Alltrax SR controller and heavy duty solenoid.

The cart was running great. My batteries were old so I decided to make the switch to 48 volt. I pulled out my 36 volt batteries and installed a new 48 volt Eco Battery 105ah lithium.

I changed the resister on my 400 amp solenoid to a 48 volt compatible resistor.

Here is my issue.....my resistor is getting extremely hot and I am getting no clicking from the solenoid and no power to my Alltrax controller. Really odd since I have the same wiring set up. I lugged my laptop into the Alltrax and I get 4 blinking green lights. I get 51 volts on one side of the solenoid and 51 volts on all 3 big cables to the Alltrax.

Literally the only thing that I changed other than the resistor was the new Eco Battery comes with it's own charging port so I had to remove the old one. I know the old charging port had a reed switch and the new charging port just has a black and white for positive and negative to the battery.

Any EZGO doctors on here that could provide some advice?

[scottyb]

The old charge receptical had a small third wire that powered up the F&R micro switches. Did you replace that with a new 48v + source?


Fun Fact > When the resistor gets smoking hot you can bet the controller is trying to feed the motor but the solenoid is not closing (clicking)

[msporter10]

You just gave me hope Scotty. I literally have been searching the reed switch wiring and wondering if that was the issue.

Since the new Eco Battery charging port doesn't have the 3rd wire.......would I just run a wire from the positive battery terminal to the F/R Rocker Switch? Would that wire go to the neutral (middle) setting?

[msporter10]

Sorry just realized you are probably referring to the F/R not the rocker switch

[msporter10]

One last bit of info if it helps. I am getting 53 volts on the blue and gree wire of the ignition and .7 on the other two.

My understanding is the reed switch on my old charging port was part of a circuit. The previous wire coming off the reed switch was connected to my blue ignition wire. I ran the blue ignition wire straight to the position battery terminal but still no luck.

[msporter10]

ScottyB of you are still on here. You brought up a great point that the old charging port had the 3rd wire that fed the F/R micro switch. I updated my F/R to a rocker switch which has 3 positions and 3 wires. Two wires go to the SR202 F/R and the 3rd goes to the solenoid. I get 51 volts at all 3 of those.

Where are you suggesting I plug a 48+ source into exactly? It seems like there is just one connection not there keeping it from turning everything on.

[SolarRat]

After the green ignition wire it has to go through the pedal switch, which then feeds the small red wire to the solenoid.

[msporter10]

Originally Posted by SolarRat

After the green ignition wire it has to go through the pedal switch, which then feeds the small red wire to the solenoid.

Appreciate feedback as always. The wire I am referring to is the old reed switch wire from the old charging port. I know one end of that goes to the positive on the battery but I am not sure what the other end goes to. I have read several comments on other sites that say it goes to the rocker (including from ScottyB who knows his stuff) switch but I'm just not sure which of the 3 wires it would go to on the rocker. The forward wire on the rocker goes to the forward size of my SW202 F/W. The reverse wire goes to the reverse side of the SW202. The middle ( neutral) goes to the solenoid. Just not sure which one of those the other end of the reed switch wire should connect to.

[SolarRat]

Originally Posted by msporter10

Appreciate feedback as always. The wire I am referring to is the old reed switch wire from the old charging port. I know one end of that goes to the positive on the battery but I am not sure what the other end goes to. I have read several comments on other sites that say it goes to the rocker (including from ScottyB who knows his stuff) switch but I'm just not sure which of the 3 wires it would go to on the rocker. The forward wire on the rocker goes to the forward size of my SW202 F/W. The reverse wire goes to the reverse side of the SW202. The middle ( neutral) goes to the solenoid. Just not sure which one of those the other end of the reed switch wire should connect to.

Right, but if you have power at the ignition switch you have already bypassed the switches you are talking about. The reed switch sends B+ through the red wire to microswitch #2 on the original mechanical fwr/rev (which you no longer have). MS2 closes when in either fwr or rev, then sends the B+ to the ignition switch via the blue wire. You are obviously getting your power on this wire from somewhere other than the reed switch, so forget about the reed switch, you've already bypassed it.

If you are getting B+ on the green coming from the key switch but not at the solenoid, the only things in between are the pedal switch under the floor and the 4 pin molex connector that is near the solenoid/controller. Since you probably didn't mess with the pedal switch I'd highly suspect the connector is bad. They go bad often and cause no-go's or intermittent problems.

If you are getting B+ to the solenoid but it's still not clicking, check its ground. The original solenoid was grounded through MS4 on the original fwr/rev switch, and to curtis controller...and you no longer have either...

[msporter10]

Originally Posted by SolarRat

Right, but if you have power at the ignition switch you have already bypassed the switches you are talking about. The reed switch sends B+ through the red wire to microswitch #2 on the original mechanical fwr/rev (which you no longer have). MS2 closes when in either fwr or rev, then sends the B+ to the ignition switch via the blue wire. You are obviously getting your power on this wire from somewhere other than the reed switch, so forget about the reed switch, you've already bypassed it.

If you are getting B+ on the green coming from the key switch but not at the solenoid, the only things in between are the pedal switch under the floor and the 4 pin molex connector that is near the solenoid/controller. Since you probably didn't mess with the pedal switch I'd highly suspect the connector is bad. They go bad often and cause no-go's or intermittent problems.

If you are getting B+ to the solenoid but it's still not clicking, check its ground. The original solenoid was grounded through MS4 on the original fwr/rev switch, and to curtis controller...and you no longer have either...

Awesome info. So if I run the blue ignition wire to the battery + and have voltage at the blue and green.....do I need to run a battery positive wire to the rocker switch at any of those positions?