1996 Club Car Power Problem at Key Switch?

[bumpinbryan]

Hi all!! I have a 1996 Club Car and am new to the golf cart stuff and of course have a problem. I have no power going to the selonoid, so i decided to start checking power at the key switch. When the key is off i have 48v at the bottom post when i turn the key on there is no power at either post. What do I need to do or check next? I do have a full 48v running from main negative post to main positive post so the batteries are good. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance!!

[OLD MEC]

Sounds like you have a digital meter IF SO GOOD. Depending on what 1996 CC you have
#1 Series Motor ( F&R lever under drivers right leg )
#2 Regen motor ( F&R rocker type switch under drivers right leg )
I am not comfortable with loss of power when switch is turned on? Are you testing from pack negative ground to switch, or across switch terminals? I would go back and confirm that you dont have a bad connection some where in your battery pack from Solenoid large post to switch circuit? OR WEAK OR DEAD BATTERY? Each battery should have 8.49volts fully charged and pack voltage should be 50.96 volts fully charged? Check your pack voltage and then each battery for condition. Compare with STICKIES under "State Of Charge Readings"
The flow of power is as follows
A- key switch
B-F&R "micro limit switch" first one on back of of F&R control housing ( 3 micro's stacked ) IF LEVER TYPE
C- depending on type of motor controls ( either V Glide "Pie Shaped" box under drivers seat with micro switch inside, OR Potentiometer under drivers floor "Plastic black box unit" with micro switch inside attached directly to pedal linkage, OR IF CONVERTED could have MCOR Potentiometer unit under passenger floor with micro inside, OR POSSIBLY A Curtis PB-6 Potentiometer with Micro on outside in almost any location that installer liked? LOTS of possiblities with cart that old?
IF MOTOR IS REGEN still same basic controls used, except for F&R controlling is done inside solid state controller, activated by rocker switch.

[bumpinbryan]

All batteries and over all test good. The f/r switch is a click switch not the one you roll from one side to another. I test the switch with the negative grounded and the positive on the bottom post of the key switch and tested 48v. Then turned the key on and have no power on the at the top or bottom post on key switch. Where should i test next or what should i check??

[OLD MEC]

At 48 volts pack output you have LESS than 50% of charge as it shold be at least 50 volts and better yet 50.96 volts for correct operation. Just to get it straight on what you have, the F&R control is a toggle switch with 3 positions ( center is neutral ), ( either side gives you forward or reverse Correct? ) This means you have one of the early REGEN ONES that came out in 1995-996 period. These I'm sorry to say gave more than their share of problems?
How about jumpering your key switch to confirm that the switch itself is not the problem? If that does solve power problem BUT still no solenoid operation advance to step "C". If juming switch does not solve problem then we are going to have to do some more advanced testing? But first I would like to see the voltage up much higher before going much further.