Newbie: What did I break?

[CobraEatr]

Sidenote: I'm getting 49.3V across the two solenoid terminals at all times.....in TOW, RUN, and with & without the gas pedal being depressed. I'm yanking the negative battery cable when I'm not working on it. That resistor is still getting crazy hot.

Is there anything else I can test with my voltmeter before I start buying new parts? I don't hear anything coming from the solenoid (no clicking noise) when I'm in RUN and the gas pedal is being depressed, in both FW and Rev.

[scottyb]

Carts Unlimited Tech Tips
Solenoid not working

How to verify the solenoid is actually working?
Remove the pre-charge resistor from the big terminals.
Put the voltmeter black (common) on battery main (-) and the red lead on the solenoid big terminal with the battery Main (+) cable on it
The voltmeter should read the same as the battery pack here.

Now press the pedal so the solenoid clicks and move the red lead to the other big solenoid post = this should also now read the same as the battery pack.
Now release the pedal and the power should disappear from the second big post.
Repeat the test several times to see that the solenoid is consistently closing (power at both big terminals) when it clicks and opening (power at one big terminal) when the pedal is lifted.
Solenoid not clicking

The solenoid makes a click sound when it activates or closes and another click when it opens. Power flows between the large posts when the solenoid is closed.
Solenoid activation requires battery pack voltage is present and readable with a voltmeter between the 2 small terminals. It takes + on one small terminal and – on one small terminal to activate the solenoid.
The solenoid should only be closed when the cart is running. Never leave the solenoid closed (activated) when the cart is not in use.

[CobraEatr]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Carts Unlimited Tech Tips
Solenoid not working

How to verify the solenoid is actually working?
Remove the pre-charge resistor from the big terminals.
Put the voltmeter black (common) on battery main (-) and the red lead on the solenoid big terminal with the battery Main (+) cable on it
The voltmeter should read the same as the battery pack here.

Now press the pedal so the solenoid clicks and move the red lead to the other big solenoid post = this should also now read the same as the battery pack.
Now release the pedal and the power should disappear from the second big post.
Repeat the test several times to see that the solenoid is consistently closing (power at both big terminals) when it clicks and opening (power at one big terminal) when the pedal is lifted.
Solenoid not clicking

The solenoid makes a click sound when it activates or closes and another click when it opens. Power flows between the large posts when the solenoid is closed.
Solenoid activation requires battery pack voltage is present and readable with a voltmeter between the 2 small terminals. It takes + on one small terminal and – on one small terminal to activate the solenoid.
The solenoid should only be closed when the cart is running. Never leave the solenoid closed (activated) when the cart is not in use.

Thanks Scotty. I'm going to check that when I get home. I'll probably be buying a solenoid from you tonight.

[CobraEatr]

So I'm just getting back to working on this issue again. I contacted Scottyb and he gave me a response and told me to post it in this thread.

Me to Scottyb: Using the info you provided me about testing my solenoid, I was able to read 48V from battery negative across the positive big post on the solenoid. However reading from battery negative to the negative post on the solenoid I get 0V when the gas pedal is both pressed and depressed. I have to keep the batteries disconnected at all times otherwise the resistor across the solenoid stays VERY hot regardless of if I'm on Tow or Run.

Scottyb:

If the solenoid pre-charge resistor is getting hot all the time SOMETHING is not wired up right. I can't get into detailed general cart repair here like we can on BGW but, the solenoid resistor is getting hot because the controller is calling for power and the solenoid is not closing (not activated). You can see how this cannot be right ALL THE TIME, should only happen when the pedal is down if cart is wired correctly and the solenoid is in fact bad which I doubt.

Can anyone give me some more check points?

[scottyb]

Are we clear on what solenoid activation is? THe solenoid is activated when there is battery pack voltage measured across (between) the 2 small terminals.
Please when asking about a terminals - use large or small designation for clarity.

1. Is the solenoid activated;
never
only when the pedal is down
all the time

2.
When the solenoid is activated and the pre-charge resistor is removed;
is there 48v positive on both big terminals
on one big terminal
on no big terminal

[CobraEatr]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Are we clear on what solenoid activation is? THe solenoid is activated when there is battery pack voltage measured across (between) the 2 small terminals.
Please when asking about a terminals - use large or small designation for clarity.

1. Is the solenoid activated;
never
only when the pedal is down
all the time

2.
When the solenoid is activated and the pre-charge resistor is removed;
is there 48v positive on both big terminals
on one big terminal
on no big terminal

I poked around with my voltmeter and I think you are correct that the issue isn't the solenoid, but instead something else. I found a wiring diagram online and traced all the wires down and everything appears to be connected properly. To answer your questions:

1. Is the solenoid activated. Answer - never. I don't get a clicking noise coming from the solenoid and it's not reading what it's supposed to when I press the pedal and check the terminals on the solenoid.

I found another set of solenoid troubleshooting tips online and below are what my results were:

1. Disconnect any cables from the two large terminals. Be sure to wrap the cable ends in tape, and keep the ends separate from each other.

2. With the key off, and the cart direction switch in a neutral position, set your voltmeter to ohms, and place a probe on each large terminal There should be no reading. No reading for me, open circuit.

3. Now, with the cart's direction switch in the forward position, and the key on, step on the accelerator. You should hear a click coming from the solenoid. If you do... I did not hear a clicking sound.

4. Set your voltmeter to measure ohms, and place a probe on each large terminal. You should have a reading of 0 to 0.4 ohms. Anything higher, and it means that the solenoid has faulty contacts and should be replaced. No reading – resistance is too high.

5. If you did not hear a click coming from your solenoid, then grab your voltmeter and set it to DC volts on the 200 scale, and place a probe on each of the small terminals.

6. With the key on and the cart in forward, step on the accelerator.

•If the voltmeter shows full battery voltage, and there is no click, the coil inside the solenoid has failed and will need to be replaced. I read 0V.

•If your voltmeter remains at 0, then there is a problem somewhere else in the cart.

I think this backs up what you're saying Scottyb, that there's something else wrong and it's likely not the solenoid. As far as I know, and from tracing all the wiring, everything appears to be connected properly. Does this mean that my controller has sh*t the bed?

Thanks in advance for all the help Scottyb.

[scottyb]

As you know the solenoid requires + and - at the 2 small terminals to click closed and allow battery power to the controller, motor, etc

Use your meter as described here in this short video > http://www.cartsunlimited.net/troubleshooting-tips.html
to determine if you are missing the + or the - side of the solenoid activation circuit.

Post the answer or any questions you have after watching the video.

[CobraEatr]

Originally Posted by scottyb

As you know the solenoid requires + and - at the 2 small terminals to click closed and allow battery power to the controller, motor, etc

Use your meter as described here in this short video > http://www.cartsunlimited.net/troubleshooting-tips.html
to determine if you are missing the + or the - side of the solenoid activation circuit.

Post the answer or any questions you have after watching the video.

With the batteries connected, switch set to RUN, key turned ON, forward or reverse direction selected, gas pedal pressed or depressed, I'm getting 0V across the two small terminals of the solenoid.

[CobraEatr]

I used the following link to troubleshoot my problem:

http://www.fsip.biz/Documents/Club%2...leshooting.pdf

It says that my controller is bad. So I'm going to need a new controller. I want an upgraded unit. I'm going to be adding a 6" lift and larger tires. There is a bench in the back and we will be riding with 4 people. What controller and associated parts do I need (fitment plates, etc)? I'll be ordering this from Scottyb's parts site and I need to get them on this cart running pronto. Thanks.

[scottyb]

Shoot me an email with the cart particulars and use and I'll be happy to help.
Email scottyb@cartsunlimited.net or cartsunlimited.net@gmail.com