Shorted solenoid to negative post on #2 Battery

[Coop9]

So, I am not very knowledgeable in this area and definitely need some help. While I was installing a new solenoid my wrench grounded out. I unfortunately had not disconnected the batteries while doing this (lesson learned the hard way) but I did have it in TOW mode...after a significant amount of sparking and leads melting I was able to get the wrench (now welded to the neg post) off. When removing the nuts one post had been damaged and is now spinning freely. I have load tested the batteries since this happened and they are holding charge and can handle a load. I have a few questions...
1. Do I need to replace the batteries?
2. Do I need to replace the cables? I will at least have to replace a couple connectors
3. Any tips on something I may be missing or should be concerned about?

Not going to lie, I'm a little head shy to move forward without getting some feedback. Batteries are expensive...

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

[Mooncarter]

I would replace the battery with the bad post. Fix/replace cables as needed. Connect everything as it should be.

Then test cart to see what/if anything has been damaged.

to BGW.

[Mooncarter]

Also tell us year/model of cart. Any upgrades, etc?

[Coop9]

Sweet thanks...I was planning on replacing the one bad battery.

A couple connectors were soldered so they need to be replaced. But I'll keep the cables.

I will re-post if everything works once I'm done.

Thanks for the info.

[Coop9]

It's a 2004 Club Car Precedent (48V)

My son and I have just installed a headlight and tail lights.

I am about to modify the cable from the charging port to the OSB so I can use the charger I had just bought... no other mods (electrical) that I am aware of.

Cheers!

And happy to be able to join!

[Mooncarter]

Originally Posted by Coop9

Sweet thanks...I was planning on replacing the one bad battery.

A couple connectors were soldered so they need to be replaced. But I'll keep the cables.

I will re-post if everything works once I'm done.

Thanks for the info.

[Fairtax4me]

If the batteries are all holding a charge, the stud can be removed and you can drill and re-tap a hole for a new stud to thread in. Just don't drill in too deep. It's especially easy if your batteries have the regular A style posts next to the stud terminals.

If any of those cables have obvious discoloration from heat damage, they should be replaced. Overheating the cables can damage the copper structure and lead to higher resistance in the cable, which means less current handling capacity and that means the cable will get hot again when the cart is running.

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Coop9

-snip-
1. Do I need to replace the batteries?

Here is an option that works great and I have done it many times.... (That sounds bad I know, but I help a lot of people... )

http://video.search.yahoo.com/search...55&action=view

[Coop9]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

Here is an option that works great and I have done it many times.... (That sounds bad I know, but I help a lot of people... )

http://video.search.yahoo.com/search...55&action=view

The post is spinning freely now...I was told that I should replace the battery as it may have turned the plates...is this accurate?

[Coop9]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

If the batteries are all holding a charge, the stud can be removed and you can drill and re-tap a hole for a new stud to thread in. Just don't drill in too deep. It's especially easy if your batteries have the regular A style posts next to the stud terminals.

If any of those cables have obvious discoloration from heat damage, they should be replaced. Overheating the cables can damage the copper structure and lead to higher resistance in the cable, which means less current handling capacity and that means the cable will get hot again when the cart is running.

Do you know what the approximate resistance for the lines should be? I'm good to replace the cables if required, but I am uncomfortable to try and splice a new cable to the controller.