Club Car 850 XRT 2015 runs slow in forward

[Carts4you]

So we have a Club Car XRT year 2014 that started running slow in forward. Reverse seems fine. The car starts up ok and then gets really slow. Here are details:

1. BPV - 51v
2. Speed sensor was replaced and problem continues
3. A new MCor 4 throttle was tested and problem continues
4. Controller is not recognizing the handheld scanner for readings and faults
5. Tested batteries under load and they keep voltage
6. Tested voltage at pin # 1 (white cable) and read 4.6 v
7. Tested voltage at pin # 15 (red cable) and read 14.4 v

Does this point to a failing controller>

[NoleFan4Ever]

When you changed the speed sensor did you check the magnet that was behind it? It could be cracked or broken.

A Speed sensor or Welded solenoid will cause limp mode.

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

When you changed the speed sensor did you check the magnet that was behind it? It could be cracked or broken.

A Speed sensor or Welded solenoid will cause limp mode.

Thank you NoleFan4Ever. The magnet was also changed with speed sensor for a new one. The solenoid does click when activated so we assume it is not welded. Should we still verify it further? Seems like in reverse it has more speed than in forward. Is there a voltage reading we can check from controller? Could the controller be failing?

[Fairtax4me]

The core of the solenoid can still click even if the contacts are welded closed. Put it in Tow mode, disconnect the pack negative and positive, Remove One of the cables from the large posts and test for continuity across the posts.

[NoleFan4Ever]

And it is very important that "when" it occurs you immediately perform the push/pull test to insure you are not in limp from the speed sensor. I have had them be intermittent many times. Just last week a member here had that occur.

And your two (2) Pin readings are correct for their respective voltages.

Have you tested the Speed Sensor? (real test, not just push/pull)

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

And it is very important that "when" it occurs you immediately perform the push/pull test to insure you are not in limp from the speed sensor. I have had them be intermittent many times. Just last week a member here had that occur.

And your two (2) Pin readings are correct for their respective voltages.

Have you tested the Speed Sensor? (real test, not just push/pull)

So we tested the solenoid, after disconnecting the batteries and one of the large terminals on solenoid. The solenoid does not have continuity in large terminals when tested.

NoleFan4Ever is the push/pull test you refer to is moving the car back or forward? This XRT does not slow down or reverse buzzer beeps when moved. We tried another speed sensor but still does the same. What other test I can do on speed sensor?

What other items can be causing this limp mode. The car starts ok but then stays slow. Any other tests we can run?

[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by Carts4you

So we tested the solenoid, after disconnecting the batteries and one of the large terminals on solenoid. The solenoid does not have continuity in large terminals when tested. So that means you are not holding a welded solenoid as FT4M was having you test for and now you can rule that one out.

NoleFan4Ever is the push/pull test you refer to is moving the car back or forward? This XRT does not slow down or reverse buzzer beeps when moved. We tried another speed sensor but still does the same. What other test I can do on speed sensor? That means the speed sensor is bad and is why you are in Limp mode. Where did you get it from? (The Amazon and China made ones are more bad out the box then have seen good ones.)

What other items can be causing this limp mode. The car starts ok but then stays slow. Any other tests we can run?

See above. We have to get the speed sensor working to get you out Limp mode.

[NoleFan4Ever]

You can test the signal for the speed sensor; with a DVM, place the black (–) probe on the battery main pack Negative post and place the red (+) probe on the green wire between the 3-pin connector and the motor speed sensor. Raise one rear wheel off ground. Slowly turn the rear wheel to rotate the motor armature. As the armature rotates, the voltage reading should alternate from 0vdc to approximately 4.85vdc. The voltage reading will fluctuate from zero to 4.85vdc and back to zero four times for each revolution of the motor armature. (The voltage reading of 4.85vdc is an approximate reading; the actual reading may vary from 4.50vdc to 5.00vdc). Replace the speed sensor if there is no voltage reading, voltage reading is not above 3.50vdc, or the voltage reading does not fluctuate as the motor is turned. If it is bad, here is an OEM replacement that will work https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...or-made-in-usa as long as it has the ADC motor (Top Hat style).

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

See above. We have to get the speed sensor working to get you out Limp mode.

Thanks. I got the speed sensors from Stentens. Never had an issue before. We tested two new ones and still got the same result. Will test the speed sensor readings and let you know.

[Carts4you]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

You can test the signal for the speed sensor; with a DVM, place the black (–) probe on the battery main pack Negative post and place the red (+) probe on the green wire between the 3-pin connector and the motor speed sensor. Raise one rear wheel off ground. Slowly turn the rear wheel to rotate the motor armature. As the armature rotates, the voltage reading should alternate from 0vdc to approximately 4.85vdc. The voltage reading will fluctuate from zero to 4.85vdc and back to zero four times for each revolution of the motor armature. (The voltage reading of 4.85vdc is an approximate reading; the actual reading may vary from 4.50vdc to 5.00vdc). Replace the speed sensor if there is no voltage reading, voltage reading is not above 3.50vdc, or the voltage reading does not fluctuate as the motor is turned. If it is bad, here is an OEM replacement that will work https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...or-made-in-usa as long as it has the ADC motor (Top Hat style).

So we tested the speed sensor at the cart connector back probing the green wire. We did not get a voltage change when turning the wheels. Now for the sake of making sure that the speed sensor is the problem (two new ones tried on) can the problem be at the connector? Should I test for this connection? It looked clean and fine but want to check off other factors that could cause this.