96 Club Car Turns over but won't start

[Woosterdelt]

Hello,
I think I have read most of the posts on this website as to this non-starting issue. I still can not get the cart running.

As above, the starter will engage and turn the engine, but the engine will not start. I thought, all it needs is fuel, spark and compression. Of those, I can only prove that it has good compression. I assumed it was a carb issue and removed the carb and cleaned it which made no difference. We have sprayed ether in the carb intake while cranking it with no success. The fuel pump squirts fuel when disconnected from the carb also.

Last fall, when this condition began, I replaced the magneto (this was a transition year cart and did not have the separate ignitor). It ran for a week and died. I took it to the club car dealer and they stated that the fuel line suction tube in the tank was getting plugged with debris, and they cleaned out the tank and installed new fuel lines. It ran fine for about 4 months then returned to the same non-starting condition.

Here is where it gets wacky. We disconnected the rev limiter. It then started and ran although with about 75% power resulting (would not climb hill as quickly as before). After about a week of use it went back to the same non-starting condition. The rev limiter was left disconnected, and the microswitches were replaced with new (all four). The cart then started and ran for 20 minutes, then died.

We put an inline spark tester on it and it seems to be getting spark. We removed the spark plug and grounded it to the block and it is getting spark. Also, when the plug is not grounded to the block, I can see a spark jumping the plug gap. Not all the time, but periodically the plug sparks. I then assumed the insulation on the plug was bad and replaced the plug. No difference, it still will not start.

In my opinion, it seems like the kill circuit is being activated by a random short (pinched wire) that I can not seem to find. Although it seems to be getting spark, I can not verify that the spark is hot enough, nor timed correctly to fire the engine.

I realize that diagnosis from afar is nearly impossible, but I am wondering if anyone here has run into a similar situation.

Thanks for your help.

[Allthingsmechanical]

Compression is the key. If your compression stays low the engine will not start. On some FE 350, the compression is controlled by an auto compression release, ACR, which can hang up from wear. When they hang up, the compression stays low, 35 psi or so, and the engine will never start. Check your engine m/n. The hang ups can be intermittent. Thx

[lockman1]

Originally Posted by Allthingsmechanical

Compression is the key. If your compression stays low the engine will not start. On some FE 350, the compression is controlled by an auto compression release, ACR, which can hang up from wear. When they hang up, the compression stays low, 35 psi or so, and the engine will never start. Check your engine m/n. The hang ups can be intermittent. Thx

Your not even reading the post!
1996 is a transition year for an FE290, and it won't have an ACR!
I noticed you posted the same thing with a KF82, again... no ACR!

I strongly suggest that you sit back, and READ before making a suggestion!

.02

[Fairtax4me]

Was the replacement magneto aftermarket or an OEM? If its aftermarket that may be the problem. Also if the RPM limiter is unhooked make sure the wires for that are taped off and not able to touch the motor or the motor plate.

Having spark at the plug is at least a sign that something is working with the coil. But it does take more voltage to get the spark to jump the gap when its under compression. If the coil is failing it may not be producing enough spark to make it run.


Free and easy thing is to take apart the carb and clean it thoroughly. The fuel bowl could have some dirt in the bottom blocking the main jet. There could be dirt or varnish in the pilot jet causing a too lean mixture when starting. These carbs are not complicated but you do need to be thorough when cleaning them and make sure everything gets cleaned out really well.

The OE carbs have a notch on the mixture adjustment screw that only allows you to turn it 1/2 turn or so. I cut the notch off with a dremel so I can completely remove the screw to clean the tip and the passage. If you choose to do this remember to turn the screw IN first and count the turns until it just comes to a rest. DONT try to crank it down tight or it WILL damage the needle and the passage in the carb.
Should be something like 1- 1/4 to 1-1/2 turn to seat it. Be sure to reinstall the screw in the same position.

There is a brass mixing sleeve in the center of the carb that does come out after the main jet is removed. You can see the top of it in the center of the venturi. Push it down with a flat screwdriver and then a few gentle taps on a block of wood should get it to fall out. Clean that and make sure all of the holes in it are clean and clear. Also blast plenty of cleaner and compressed air through the center and all of the passages in the carb body.

When reassembling be sure all of the pieces get put back in their proper places. One thing a lot of people overlook is the adjustment of the throttle plate. Carefully adjust the throttle stop screw until you can just barely see space between the plate and the bore of the carb, then back it off just a hair. You don't want the throttle plate to actually hit the bore, because there needs to be a tiny amount of space there in order to get proper airflow to pull fuel in during initial cranking. If that opening is too large the starting mixture will be too lean and you'll have very hard starting especially if the engine is cold.

Even if they're only a few months old replace the fuel filters. Make sure your air filter is clean and the intake tube is properly connected and isn't cracked (which would allow dirt into the carb, and the engine).