More performance out of 295cc engine

[lkrbuilder13]

Does anyone have any good ideas on how to get more performance out of my 295 cc engine? I have a 2006 cart and I am trying to figure out if there is any way I can beef it up some. Can you put 350 Cylanders or 400 cylanders on the lower end? Right now I am just fishing for ideas, but I do know that I do not want to put a crazy engine in it like one from a snowmobile or something like that. My wife would go crazy about that. I think she is a fun hater LOL.
Thanks ahead of time for the input.
My cart has got a 6" Jakes Spindle lift, heavy duty rear springs, and Stock 25" Tires, 12" wheels off a Polaris Ranger.

[Wagnerwerks]

I have a 350 short block for sale. It had a very light knock according to the previous owner, but the cylinders look great and the crank feels tight. Shouldn't take much to get going. Your 295 head wound be perfect on it.

[StoveBolt]

350 heads on a 295 would make less compression, that's why some put 295 heads on 350s = more compression.

If the wife and kids ride it I would leave it alone, with a lift and 25" wheels it should be fast enough to be dangerous for a novice.
That's why warning stickers come with lift kits. (I know I'll take some heat for this)

[BrewCityMusic]

2006 is going to be an MCI motor, so no-go on the head swap (the 295 heads only work on the 350's if all involved are pre-MCI parts) .... There really isn't a ton You can do to the MCI engines for more power, You could swap it for a High-Perf 375 from CT Rebuilds for around $700, look at Vegas Carts and do a Big Block swap (if You don't mind your cart sounding like a lawnmower) - otherwise for more torque You could drop an inch off your drive belt and have your driven clutch rebuilt to 28 degree (total cost around $80-90) but that won't get you any more top end, just a heck of a lot more torque ...

And yeah, 25's on a TXT is just plain dangerous, I agree. Def NOT for the Kiddos

[lkrbuilder13]

I wasn't looking for more top end but I am looking for more torqe. With the stock Ranger wheels on it I actually made my adapters with 1/2" plate and flipped the ranger wheels (so the valve stem in on the inside alll the way around) so I would have the clearance on the inside, especially for the rear. This being said, that gives me a rear width of 54" and the front end is 51" wide so it feels pretty stable. I have the governer set so it goes 24mph. I in my OP i said it was a 2006, which I think so but I can't remember it for sure. It has a 296cm^3 Robins engine in it, so I am not sure if it is the MCI. Is there a way that I can tell for sure what I have in it? As for changing the angle in the clutch, is that changing the Helix? As you would do in a snowmobile! I just put a new belt on it and it now moves as the engine is starting instead of running and then starting to move and now it seems to run down the road at a lower RPM. The old belt was worn and narrower, sitting down inside the secondary more than the new on and I see where it would run at a higher RPM while at driving speeds. Has anyone milled the head on one of these? I have done quite a bit more with a 2-Stroke engines than the small 4 cycle engines and modifying them for more power.

[StoveBolt]

Originally Posted by lkrbuilder13

I am not sure if it is the MCI. Is there a way that I can tell for sure what I have in it? .

Pre to MCI had a cast iron exhaust manifold.

[BrewCityMusic]

the clearances on the MCI make it awfully tricky to mill the head (the reason You can't do a 295 head on the 350 is the pistons hit, the tolerances are that close) ...

As to the clutch, that's exactly what I mean - grab a 28deg helix and a set of 28deg ramp buttons and the difference in torque is night and day from the stock 36deg clutch - also going down from 42-41" with the drive belt will add moretorque and pickup than You'd believe - between the two mods you'll lose maybe 1-2mph up top, but it will definitely get those big 25's moving a lot better!

[kgsc]

May want to check the valves as well.. May need some adjusting..

[lkrbuilder13]

Originally Posted by BrewCityMusic

the clearances on the MCI make it awfully tricky to mill the head (the reason You can't do a 295 head on the 350 is the pistons hit, the tolerances are that close) ...

As to the clutch, that's exactly what I mean - grab a 28deg helix and a set of 28deg ramp buttons and the difference in torque is night and day from the stock 36deg clutch - also going down from 42-41" with the drive belt will add moretorque and pickup than You'd believe - between the two mods you'll lose maybe 1-2mph up top, but it will definitely get those big 25's moving a lot better!

The 28 deg rap, is that the standard one that buggies unlimited sells? Do you like using a different place?
Thanks,
Brian

[BrewCityMusic]

I tend to try and either use our Sponsors here on the site, or believe it or not shopezgo.com (the factory parts and accessories site) sometimes has even better deals on actual OEM parts. You'll want the 28 degree helix (sometimes referred to as a "Clutch Cam") as well as a set of 28 degree ramp buttons. The hardest part is compressing the clutch to pop off the clip that holds it all together (I made a simple compressor out of about $5 worth of hardware store parts that I have been using for years, I'll post a pic of it later this afternoon) ... Total cost should be around $55-60 for the cam, another $8-12 for the buttons, and if You go to a 41" belt, figure another $28-34