88 Marathon - still scr3wed, need electrical ideas BADLY

[BrewCityMusic]

Long and short (although I think everyone has probably read my previous threads) - cart ran great, then suddenly the spark became intermittent, then just went away completely. To (attempt to) remedy, so far I have replaced the following:

coil / plug / wire
ALL front end wiring and connectors
cleaned all "big' wiring terminals, etc
solenoid
regulator
keyswitch
accellerator switch
HEI module conversion (I even had the HEI tested to make sure it was OK)

You would THINK that there's nothing left, I tested the pulsar and it ohms out at 150 (which I was told by tech support at another vendor is still fine) - what the heck could I possibly be missing?

Here's another symptom, if it helps - when I test the coil leads I get nothing, however if I test the coil positive and ground the negative DMM lead I get around 3v while turning it over (and just for fun I tried that test with both the original ignitor AND the new HEI and got the exact same results)

I've been 3 weeks without a cart now, AAAAAARGH !!!!!! Hopefully someone can give me some other ideas to chase, forward/reverse assembly seems OK (all switches seem to be working, backup indicator, etc)

Anyone with ideas?

[BrewCityMusic]

Another development (I'm gonaa lose my happy home soon if I don't stop messing with this cart) - when I leave the DMM on the pulsar leads, there is no change in the reading as i turn the engine by hand - shouldn't there be a change (up or down ?!?) when the magnets on the rotor pass by the pulsar? I read in another thread that a guy was getting a set of "beeps" on his DMM when he rotated the engine, my DMM has no audio but shouldn't the reading at least change a little (or a lot) when passing the pickup magnets?

[Dave Box]

I don't know if your DVM will respond quickly enough to see the transition of the pulsar I suspect that it won't. You really need an oscilloscope to spot the pulses but that is beyond the reach of most guys.

I do know that 3 volts is not a voltage that you should be seeing anywhere so I would start there. It maybe a faulty ground (as mentioned in my PM) or something else. I would try this, and do feel free to reject my advice if you will.

First remove the drive belt or get it on axle stands in case she springs to life. Now the green wire to the coil derives 12 volts via the keyswitch AND the throttle being depressed so hook up your DVM to the green and the other side to the battery -ve, turn the key and depress the accelerator. Do you see 12 volts? If yes then disconnect the orange wire from the coil and hook up your DVM to the coil terminal that you removed the orange wire from. Hit the throttle again. 12 v should flow though the coil and register on the DVM. Do you see 12 volts?

Let me know

Kind regards
Dave