Running Accessaries off Key.

[todo_brane_ded]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Could you use zener diodes to step the voltage down to a single 12vt relay ? Would be very little load on the coil.. Just wondering..

Yeah, but the relays draw about 200ma and two zeners in series would have to dissipate:

P=IxE, .2X12v= 2.5 watts....that's the minimum. The rule of thumb is to double the watts so they'd have to be 12v, 5 watt zeners....pretty hefty...

Cheaper and easier to add relays in series.

[azboo]

Originally Posted by yurtle

It's as balanced as possible, based on usage. You have no idea how often I use my loads, so your assumptions are based on dung. I've had this for years and check my batteries individually every month. I'm running October 2002 batteries, so STFU.

The bulk of the load is my stereo; not B3/B4.

If you're unable to post on this forum without being insulting or demeaning to other posters, then please don't bother. Demonstrate you're superior intelligence and communication skills in a more dignified and appropriate way or please refrain from posting at all.

We don't all have to agree but respect is a universally recognized language.

Thank you and have a nice day.

Boo

[yurtle]

I appologize to the poster and to the forum. I felt like his response to my initial post to be insulting and demeaning, though I shouldn't have sunk to his level.

Instead of asking why I chose to use four fuses, he simply stated that one was unneccessary. In fact, only two fuses are required to protect each of the four 12 volt circuits.

Instead of asking why I used two diodes on my stereo capacitor, he simply stated they are unnessary. In fact, they are absolutely necessary. I have two series batteries and one capacitor wired in parallel to them. When I put the pedal to the floor, my radio would drop out due to instantaneous voltage drop. Without the diodes, the capacitor would simply dump its energy into the motor. The diodes insure the capacitor can only discharge into the radio.

Finally, the poster failed to recognize the difference between connected loads and demand loads. When I first got my cart, I measured each battery a day after having been fully charged. They were slightly out of balance, even though they had never seen any load other than the motor. I rearranged the batteries to match the demand loads. I have the ability to move loads if needed, but it hasn't been necessary.

This type of question has come up so often, I decided to show how easy it is to use an EZ-GO three position key switch and a 36 volt 25 amp relay. My key switch is wired for off, run, then run plus all accessories. The only exception is the memory for the stereo. This means when I park, I only have to turn the key off, and all loads are killed.

Again, sorry for my inappropriate attitude. I should probably avoid hungover, pre-coffee, morning posts.

Originally Posted by azboo

If you're unable to post on this forum without being insulting or demeaning to other posters, then please don't bother. Demonstrate you're superior intelligence and communication skills in a more dignified and appropriate way or please refrain from posting at all.

We don't all have to agree but respect is a universally recognized language.

Thank you and have a nice day.

Boo

[todo_brane_ded]

This will be my final post Yurdle...I apologize if I came across as condescending. It was unintentional.

I am not an amatuer in electrical design so I'll let this final post, a simplified schematic of your design, make my point....

I'll let you have the last word(s)...

[yurtle]

The top fuse isn't necessary, as that circuit is already protected by the fuse on the other leg. In fact:

Technically, I only need a 2 pole single throw relay; not a 4 pole double throw.
Technically, I only need two fuses; not four.
Technically, I only need one diode; not two.
Technically, I only need single pole single throw switches for tail light, wig-wag, and neon lights; not double pole double throw.
Technically, I don't need a switch for the stereo, as a momentary touch of the power/volume switch reduces the volume. However, the switch allows me to quickly kill it, if I need to answer a cell phone call.

I deal in industrial automation at work, so I tend to overdesign. Also, I often make do with what I already have around.

I'm also no stranger in circuit design. Here are a few of my toys:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/membe...es-energy.html

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/membe...esla-coil.html

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/membe...esla-coil.html

Adam

Originally Posted by todo_brane_ded

This will be my final post Yurdle...I apologize if I came across as condescending. It was unintentional.

I am not an amatuer in electrical design so I'll let this final post, a simplified schematic of your design, make my point....

I'll let you have the last word(s)...

[scottyb]

Yaaaawhnnnn ~ Phew are you guys done with the key switch yet? I thought I would just replace it with the OEM double switch and be done with it?

[todo_brane_ded]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Yaaaawhnnnn ~ Phew are you guys done with the key switch yet? I thought I would just replace it with the OEM double switch and be done with it?

I said that in post #15.....

The OP is using a round-keyed switch (motorcycle switch) such as I'm using with one pole and believe me I looked for one that had two.

He's been in touch with me privately and I've been giving some help....

[yurtle]

I just put on my glasses and looked at your schematic again. The reason I chose to use four fuses is so I only had to run four wires (of adequate ampacity to allow for future loads) from the batteries to my distribution box. Your schematic requires six. With six wires, you are correct in needing three fuses. Using only four wires could allow me to get away with just two. Right now, when I work on my accessories, I simply pull four fuses and all accessory wires are dead - both positive and negative. Yours leaves the negatives still connected to the battery, which could pose a problem as the EZ-GOs have a "floating" chassis. I'd rather not take any chances. I don't recall the circumstances, but if I recall, I've read 6 or 12 volts from the chassis to the batteries. I don't recall how I discovered this, but I think it was when I wired up my headlights. I went out of my way to make sure and insulate the lights, as they were negative grounded.

I'm used to working on three phase power circuits at home and work, where you have to kill all three phases, with breakers, disconnects, and motor starters.

Your schematic is typical of automotive wiring, where you are only concerned with killing the positive, and the chassis is negative grounded. Really just a preference thing, as there's always more than one way to wire something.

Originally Posted by todo_brane_ded

This will be my final post Yurdle...I apologize if I came across as condescending. It was unintentional.

I am not an amatuer in electrical design so I'll let this final post, a simplified schematic of your design, make my point....

I'll let you have the last word(s)...

[gornoman]

Ohms. It's the Law!

[todo_brane_ded]

Originally Posted by gornoman

Ohms. It's the Law!