98' F290 Stalling Even After Major Parts Replacement...

[Doc's BoneCracker]

Originally Posted by drluv

I really appreciate the quick responses. Haven't had tome today to fool with it, probably on Monday. I did notice the other day that these engines seem to run under partial choke, i.e., there seems to be a plate that covers some of the output from the air cleaner. I haven't checked this but is it movable or stationary? What I have found is that the engine will not run when the breather hose is off and was wondering if maybe this plate is moving somehow and therefore the engine runs lean. Is this possible??

should be stationary if I'm remembering right. I do know you don't want any air leaks in the system. But I would almost promise you will find the problem is the coil breaking down after it run's for a little bit. I have also noticed when it is cooler out it seems to take longer, if at all, for it to stop running. But the hotter out the faster it stops running and takes longer to cool down the coil/igniter.

[fastercarter]

The choke button just shuts down the air supply to create a rich condition when cold. It should be spring loaded so when you let go it opens up. There's nothing fancy about it, rather crude actually but it works.

FC

[JW67]

They are also EXTREMELY air sensitive. It will not run right if even the lid for the air filter is cockeyed. You would be very suprised how little air these carts need. I am with them. I think its the coil too. Been there a few times with the campground carts I worked on. You already checked/changed everything else. It has to be the coil. But I would check all microswitches first. They can cause problems and they are cheap and easy.

[drluv]

You guys are great! I really appreciate all the knowledge you have provided. I may not have much time to work on it this week since I'm getting ready to go out of town, but I did order a new coil and still plan on checking out the air filter box and the baffle that is in there. The new starter/generator has corrected the hard to start problem and it's now charging like it should. The non-charging issue I've put up with for a while and have just simply been keeping a trickle charger on the battery to keep it hot.

Just thought I would ask before the coil comes in, but can you acutally get to the flywheel housing to remove it and get to the coil without having to pull the shell of the Club Car off? I would think so but it does look a little tight in there.

Thanks again. I'll be sure to update everyone once the problem is finally corrected...

drluv

[fastercarter]

Originally Posted by drluv

You guys are great! I really appreciate all the knowledge you have provided. I may not have much time to work on it this week since I'm getting ready to go out of town, but I did order a new coil and still plan on checking out the air filter box and the baffle that is in there. The new starter/generator has corrected the hard to start problem and it's now charging like it should. The non-charging issue I've put up with for a while and have just simply been keeping a trickle charger on the battery to keep it hot.

Just thought I would ask before the coil comes in, but can you acutally get to the flywheel housing to remove it and get to the coil without having to pull the shell of the Club Car off? I would think so but it does look a little tight in there.

Thanks again. I'll be sure to update everyone once the problem is finally corrected...

drluv

Yes you can get to it. There are a couple of tricky bolts to remove on the underside of the fan housing and one to the rear. The rear one you will just back off a couple of turns since the housing is slotted at that point. Off with muffler and its brackets and it will all become self explanatory. Allow an hour for your first one to locate those hard to find bolts but after that you'll change them in your sleep.

FC

[Doc's BoneCracker]

Originally Posted by fastercarter

Yes you can get to it. There are a couple of tricky bolts to remove on the underside of the fan housing and one to the rear. The rear one you will just back off a couple of turns since the housing is slotted at that point. Off with muffler and its brackets and it will all become self explanatory. Allow an hour for your first one to locate those hard to find bolts but after that you'll change them in your sleep.

FC

You can do it But faster might b e wrong on the rear bolt the one I did last week had slots on all the top bolts and the one right behind the dang muffler mount that he's talking about didn't have a slot. so I took muffler clear off and used a 10mm wrench then once loose take a pry bar and pull the muffler mount out just enough and the bolt will come out. I also had to take the 4 bolts that hold the fan cover to the metal shroud off first then everything came out great.

[JcXtreme72]

You can do it with out pulling the body. You can even pull the whole motor with the body still on through the seat hole. That's how I like to do coils it to leave the body on pull the motor and I've used an air drill to spin up and fire the engines to test them before I put it back in. I do have a spare fuel pump so I can run them on the bench but it's really easy to pull your fuel pump off to testing. But don't feel like you need too do it that way I just like to fire them up and let them run an hour or so on the bench to get them a bit warm.

[fastercarter]

Originally Posted by Doc's BoneCracker

You can do it But faster might b e wrong on the rear bolt the one I did last week had slots on all the top bolts and the one right behind the dang muffler mount that he's talking about didn't have a slot. so I took muffler clear off and used a 10mm wrench then once loose take a pry bar and pull the muffler mount out just enough and the bolt will come out. I also had to take the 4 bolts that hold the fan cover to the metal shroud off first then everything came out great.

What model year was that Doc ? First one I did was a 97 iirc. I pulled the the rear bolt before I realised it was slotted but pre-installed it when I saw the slot. I never had any problems with the muffler mount and certainly have never needed to use a pry bar. I just remove the whole thing. Two manifold nuts, the super big hose clamp and the forward support.http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...xhaustqa6.jpg/

FC

[drluv]

Ours is a 98', probably pretty close to your 97' but we will see as we tear into it. I just wish I would have replace the coil when I had the body off ..

[Doc's BoneCracker]

It was a Aug. 96 had the 97 and up coil but listed as the 96 and I guess I could have pulled the rear muffler mount but i had already pulled the hose clamp so and I was doing this at the camp ground not in my shop. What a pain in the a** but it worked and runs good. I left the rear shroud bolt out on reinstall.