EZGO Series Controller/Solenoid/Wiring Replacement

[jmevans_2]

New to the forum!

I recently acquired a 2007 EZGO TXT Series with 22" tires, 6" lift, and a rear flip seat. The cart seamed to be in decent condition on the outside but didn't run. There was dirt everywhere so I think that it was in the mud and water a lot.

I have charged and watered the batteries and get around 37 volts. (one or two constantly make a outgasing sound around the cap seal even while not charging). I am told the interstate batteries are 3 years old.

The cart is totally dead. No solenoid clicking/reverse buzzer/or controller LED (controller is Alltrax NPX 4834 which is 3 years old) I did check the motor with an alternate power source and it works.

I began troubleshooting by checking continuity in various places only to find continuity with the key on and off. I found that all the wires were burnt and most fused together. I also found the the F/R control switches were both bad and the reverse buzzer was completely dead.

Last night I rewired the key switch and replaced the entire F/R control. Tonight I will replace all of the wiring to the pedal box. I have no reason to believe the ITS or switch is bad in the pedal box.

I have not been able to get the solenoid to do anything at all or get the Alltrax controller to power up. I plan to buy a controller and solenoid this week.

Here is my question. The cart is currently set up with the NPX 4834 which is not much different than a factory controller. My local shop has a rebuild Curtis (275 or 300 amp I think) controller for around $250 which is a very appealing price. However, I will occasionally use this cart to haul deer out of the woods and may do some light offroading. The cart will primarily be used to drive around the lake in my neighborhood. With that being said, should I go with the factory Curtis controller at my local shop or order a different one with a higher amp rating?

[scottyb]

Welcome to BGW jm
Use a SR48400 minimum and SR48500 maximum. Save your money on those others, performance will be enough to make the cart do what you want to do in my experience helping.


Also start checking the solenoid activation circuit outlined in red starting at the source....

[rabbitreborn]

6" lift and 22" tires I would suggest a 500 AMP controller , 2 gauge welding cable throughout , a larger solenoid and a high torque motor.

Talk to Scotty, he can hook you up with what you need at a reasonable price.

[rabbitreborn]

oh yeah, almost forgot...... If you suspect water damage on the cart, replace the micro in the floorboard at least..... They are cheap and it is better safe than sorry......

[jmevans_2]

What happens with an underpowered controller like the Curtis 1206 for my setup? I know things get hot under high load but does it cause damage to the controller or other components or just cut off to cool down? I thought about trying the Curtis because it was so affordable and if I have issues with it handling what I want to do, I could sell it and buy a higher amp controller.


Scottyb,

I have already been looking at your site. The controllers are a little on the high side for me right now but I will have to make a decision soon.

Rabbitreborn,

Good call on the pedal box microswitch. I thought it looked rough but if they are cheap I might as well replace it.

[scottyb]

Thermal damage to these electronics is accumulative which means you can go in and out of thermal shut down several times before you start to go there easier and sooner or later it won't come back on. Why not get the stockish control?
A. the cart will not do what you say you want it to do and
B. the components will burn up or melt down due to "excessive amperage draw" given their capacity.

I hope this helps

[jmevans_2]

Scotty, I am going to take your advice. I sent you an email.

[jmevans_2]

I have a stock motor and possibly stock battery cables.

If I put the 500A controller in, will I need to upgrade my cables if I am only using the stock motor?

Will the 500A controller damage my motor?

I am trying to decied if I should go 400A or 500A. My thought is that with 500A I will have margin to add a larger motor later.

[scottyb]

Yes, yes, yes. The motor consumes amperage to produce power. This amperage comes from the battery pack. The controller both allows & restricts amperage flow from the pack to the motor. +
The amperage the controller allows to flow to the motor goes through the F&R switch, the solenoid, and all 13 cables (in a series cart) .
These components comprise the amperage delivery system. Each component, each F&R, each Solenoid, each cable, must be capable of sustaining the flow or you will have a failure.

And yes again. Many aftermarket motors require a 500 amp control so it is wise to go with this size initially.

Thanks for asking