Dangerous cart!

simple man · 08-19-2011, 04:14 PM

This is going to be a little long so please try to bear with me! A little history on the cart first. I got this cart from a marina where it was used for just about everything imaginable! I don't have a clue as to the model and my camera took a doo doo about the same time as the cart. It is an all steel body with an 80" wheelbase. It looks like the ones you see at airports for passengers. It is a series cart with the F-R switch at your right knee. The actual switch is right behind the lever ( no linkage ). The controller is a Curtis PMC model 1205-112, serial 132034. It is 24-36V, and 400A. The motor is an Advanced DC Motors Inc. Part # CH7-4001, serial# L009, rating# AU2500. It was made 11-11-97 and it is 48V. All of the microswitches have been disabled. The KS turns on the solenoid and the #1 pin on the controller. This cart was used on 48V for a long time before I got it and at least a year after I got it. It is now on 42V. It has recently sat for about 6 months and had been run on almost dead batteries before that. It has 3 marine deep cycle batteries and 1 - 6volt cart battery now. I charged up the 3 batteries with a 36V cart charger ( EZ-GO Textron " total charge " 12 hour timer, 36V. The original charging plug was destroyed so the charger has jumper cable clamps on it and I hook it up that way. The 1 - 6V battery gets charged from an automotive 10 amp charger. The cart used to run fine, except if you pushed the pedal all the way it would cut out until you eased off the pedal a little bit. Now for the real problem, with the F-R switch in either position ( except neutral ) when you turn on the key the cart moves violently! I'm not sure if it is at full power, but it will squal the tires in reverse on a concrete floor! I have checked all the wiring as to hookup ( by the controllers manual which I downloaded ). The pot box reads 2.5 ohms ( pedal up ) and it goes to 8,500 ohms ( pedal completely depressed ) I read through the entire manual and I understand that there is an open circuit shutdown between pins 2 and 3, and also if you have 0 ohms across pins 2 and 3, the controller applies no current to the motor. I took off the leads to pins 2 and 3 at the controller ( open circuit ), put the cart in reverse, turned on the key and the motor runs. I put a small jumper wire across pins 2 and 3 ( 0 ohms ) same result. I think the controller is bad. Do these go bad just sitting? I thank anyone who read this book and can make some sense out of this for me!

scottyb · 08-19-2011, 04:21 PM

This thread could just as easily be named 'dangerous man'.
The controller is rated below the voltage you are using, my guess is it has failed.
All of the Micro switches are in it for safety reasons, it makes little sense to defeat them all. They are cheap compared to the danger bypassing them presents in my opinion.

simple man · 08-19-2011, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottyb

This thread could just as easily be named 'dangerous man'.
The controller is rated below the voltage you are using, my guess is it has failed.
All of the Micro switches are in it for safety reasons, it makes little sense to defeat them all. They are cheap compared to the danger bypassing them presents in my opinion.

Yours are some of the most informative posts I have read! This cart was " modified " long before I got it! I'm trying to just get it usable again. I have the micro's for it, I just haven't put them on yet. From everything I have read about controllers, mine seems to have passed the stress test for years! Are these rebuildable by yourself, or should I just get another one? I live near a junkyard that gets carts in every once in awhile. There is also a shop pretty close to me for parts. I'm on social security and don't have much to spend. This cart is not worth spending a lot on anyway. It's mainly just an old workhorse! Thank you for the quick response and I'll be looking for a controller! Also, as an afterthought, will the 48V motor be alright to run on 36V?

Legendary Golf Carts · 08-19-2011, 04:55 PM

You can run a 48v motor on 36v, you just wont get the full power from it.

simple man · 08-19-2011, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Legendary Golf Carts

You can run a 48v motor on 36v, you just wont get the full power from it.

Thanks for your info! I will try to find a 48V controller if I can. The solenoid is already 48V too. This cart gets used mostly on dirt roads and hunting trails. Speed is no issue to me, but torque is! The cart also has foam filled tires, which cause drag. I found that out when I went to push it by hand! Yeah, like I said before, it used to run great on 48V. I also need to get the correct batteries too. I saw a lot of posts on battery size, type, and use.

Legendary Golf Carts · 08-19-2011, 05:22 PM

Controller type changes speed, the more volts, the more torque. If it is torque your after get a lower amperage controller and go 48 volts. It wont cost much more than 36 volts if you have to buy the batteries anyway. And foam filled tires? There's something I've never seen on this forum before!

simple man · 08-19-2011, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Legendary Golf Carts

Controller type changes speed, the more volts, the more torque. If it is torque your after get a lower amperage controller and go 48 volts. It wont cost much more than 36 volts if you have to buy the batteries anyway. And foam filled tires? There's something I've never seen on this forum before!

I found that out when I went to put air in them! I also found out they weigh a freakin ton!

Furyous · 01-16-2012, 04:12 PM

Simple Man- can you give me some feedback on that motor? I just ordered one on EBay but cannot find any specs. If youreusingit to pull boats and stuff, it will probably work n my application. I have a stretched and lifted Western with 22"tires that will probably need plenty of oomph.

yurtle · 01-16-2012, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Legendary Golf Carts

Controller type changes speed, the more volts, the more torque. If it is torque your after get a lower amperage controller and go 48 volts. It wont cost much more than 36 volts if you have to buy the batteries anyway. And foam filled tires? There's something I've never seen on this forum before!

Volts is speed and amps (current) is torque.

simple man · 01-16-2012, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Furious

Simple Man- can you give me some feedback on that motor? I just ordered one on EBay but cannot find any specs. If youreusingit to pull boats and stuff, it will probably work n my application. I have a stretched and lifted Western with 22"tires that will probably need plenty of oomph.

I really haven't been able to find out a lot on it. This link gives some info on a few motors, but I have never found specs for my exact motor! This will be an educated guess:

http://evalbum.com/advdc
I'm going to say it's one of the first two that measure 6.7", as they are both within the 48V range.

08-19-2011, 04:21 PM	#2
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,408	Re: Dangerous cart! This thread could just as easily be named 'dangerous man'. The controller is rated below the voltage you are using, my guess is it has failed. All of the Micro switches are in it for safety reasons, it makes little sense to defeat them all. They are cheap compared to the danger bypassing them presents in my opinion.

08-19-2011, 04:55 PM	#4
Legendary Golf Carts Gone Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 341	Re: Dangerous cart! You can run a 48v motor on 36v, you just wont get the full power from it.

08-19-2011, 05:22 PM	#6
Legendary Golf Carts Gone Wild Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 341	Re: Dangerous cart! Controller type changes speed, the more volts, the more torque. If it is torque your after get a lower amperage controller and go 48 volts. It wont cost much more than 36 volts if you have to buy the batteries anyway. And foam filled tires? There's something I've never seen on this forum before!

01-16-2012, 04:12 PM	#8
Furyous Flat Out Hooked on Carts Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 1,115	Re: Dangerous cart! Simple Man- can you give me some feedback on that motor? I just ordered one on EBay but cannot find any specs. If youreusingit to pull boats and stuff, it will probably work n my application. I have a stretched and lifted Western with 22"tires that will probably need plenty of oomph.

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08-19-2011, 04:14 PM	#1
simple man Gone Wild Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Bunnell, Florida Posts: 2,408	Dangerous cart! This is going to be a little long so please try to bear with me! A little history on the cart first. I got this cart from a marina where it was used for just about everything imaginable! I don't have a clue as to the model and my camera took a doo doo about the same time as the cart. It is an all steel body with an 80" wheelbase. It looks like the ones you see at airports for passengers. It is a series cart with the F-R switch at your right knee. The actual switch is right behind the lever ( no linkage ). The controller is a Curtis PMC model 1205-112, serial 132034. It is 24-36V, and 400A. The motor is an Advanced DC Motors Inc. Part # CH7-4001, serial# L009, rating# AU2500. It was made 11-11-97 and it is 48V. All of the microswitches have been disabled. The KS turns on the solenoid and the #1 pin on the controller. This cart was used on 48V for a long time before I got it and at least a year after I got it. It is now on 42V. It has recently sat for about 6 months and had been run on almost dead batteries before that. It has 3 marine deep cycle batteries and 1 - 6volt cart battery now. I charged up the 3 batteries with a 36V cart charger ( EZ-GO Textron " total charge " 12 hour timer, 36V. The original charging plug was destroyed so the charger has jumper cable clamps on it and I hook it up that way. The 1 - 6V battery gets charged from an automotive 10 amp charger. The cart used to run fine, except if you pushed the pedal all the way it would cut out until you eased off the pedal a little bit. Now for the real problem, with the F-R switch in either position ( except neutral ) when you turn on the key the cart moves violently! I'm not sure if it is at full power, but it will squal the tires in reverse on a concrete floor! I have checked all the wiring as to hookup ( by the controllers manual which I downloaded ). The pot box reads 2.5 ohms ( pedal up ) and it goes to 8,500 ohms ( pedal completely depressed ) I read through the entire manual and I understand that there is an open circuit shutdown between pins 2 and 3, and also if you have 0 ohms across pins 2 and 3, the controller applies no current to the motor. I took off the leads to pins 2 and 3 at the controller ( open circuit ), put the cart in reverse, turned on the key and the motor runs. I put a small jumper wire across pins 2 and 3 ( 0 ohms ) same result. I think the controller is bad. Do these go bad just sitting? I thank anyone who read this book and can make some sense out of this for me!

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