Run - Tow/maint. Switch question

[MuckSavage]

I was backing my part up the driveway into the garage & it suddenly stopped (no F/R, no buzzer, etc) I'm going thru the FSM troubleshooting flow chart. I got to step 62, and it tells me to replace the run/tow switch. I ran a continuity check across the switch and it seems okay. My voltages at the back of the switch are;
Red/white 31.4(t), 2.2(r). Red 38.2(t), 38.2(r). Red/yellow 30.9(t), 38.2(r). Orange/red 00.6(t), 2.1(r)

(t)=tow/maint, (r)=run.

I have no reverse buzzer & not even a solenoid click so I can't run the diagnostics. Any help is appreciated.

[JohnnieB]

Sounds like a Reed Switch failure.
Check for Battery pack voltage on the smaller of the three wires coming out of the charge receptacle.

If you get it there, check for pack voltage on J1 Pins 4 & 5. Those two should be live 100% of the time when charger isn't plugged into cart.

[MuckSavage]

I have 28v on the reed switch wire. 38.2v on pin 4, 30.2v on pin 5. This while inserting the probe into the backside of the J1 plug. Where to next?

[JohnnieB]

You're getting some strange voltage readings. Voltage coming from Reed switch is lower than voltage on J1 Pin-4, which is the other end of same wire.
Corroded connections? Bad test leads? Low battery in DVM?

Anyway the PDS is a fly-by-wire system and the controller does everything. The external switches and stuff only tell the controller what to do.
To get the controller to energize the solenoid, six sets of contacts in five switches have to be closed.
1. Reed switch
2. Run/Row switch (2 sets of contacts)
3. Keyswitch
4. F/R switch (Either F or R contacts)
5. Pedal switch

Attached is a schematic with the solenoid activation circuit highlighted.
You should have FULL battery pack voltage on all wires highlighted in red.

[MuckSavage]

Got it! 1. I switched up to a different DVOM & measured correct voltage.
2. I followed the schematic & found a loose j4 plug. Thank you JohnnyB!

[JohnnieB]

Glad to hear you got it going.