HE Mod 2 cylinder

[Night]

The original equipment was an igniter and a two pole coil. It fires both plugs at the same time. I am trying this mod. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...3pg-carts.html. But I failed to notice that it is only for single cylinder. So I am looking for a coil like the original. But in an HE style.

Mark

[raydhd]

Then either the dynatek or the compu-fire like I am using should work.I have a compu-fire ignition module so I used it, but dynatek also has an excellent reputation. P.S. I see the compu-fire on amazon for $55

[nobuckbuild]

for 50 bucks why reinvent the wheel http://www.ebay.com/itm/EZ-Go-Igniti...535ad9&vxp=mtr

just swap the expensive ignitor for one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-CDI-Box-4...de696f&vxp=mtr

[my1423]

The stock coil will work but the main purpose of the mod is to up the voltage and have more power, wider gap, and hotter spark.

C849 coil can be found for 11$ or less ebay or 8$ plus shipping from rockauto.

Better site for hei conversion stuff and better diagrams and experiments.
http://home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZ...odCavCoil.html

[Night]

$9.00 at a local farm store.
I don't understand the wild price differences?

Mark

[Night]

Got the coil today. But where are the secondary coil connections? I can see two very small slits in the bottom of it. If that's the connection for the 12v input. How do I connect with it?

Mark

[cart around]

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu.../ignition.html

When the primary magnetic field collapses, it induces voltage across the secondary winding which then produces a spark.

[my1423]

The coil is designed to be bolted to the ignition module witch has an oring all the way around to keep it sterile.
The module has spade connectors that protrude into it.
Regular crimp on male spade connectors push right in but do not hold well.
On my bike conversion I used a little silicone around the spade to hold it in and make it water proof. After insertion. Also pulls right off with enough pressure if you need to change it.
Be sure to use either heat sealing spades or heat shrink tubing to keep the connections dry.

BTW Do not forget the heat sink and grease on the module or you will burn it up.

[my1423]

Originally Posted by cart around

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu.../ignition.html

When the primary magnetic field collapses, it induces voltage across the secondary winding which then produces a spark.

Exactly as the diagram except these coils have 2 secondary windings instead of one.
If you ohm them out they both go to ground on the bolt holes.
Only the primary is isolated.

[Night]

Originally Posted by my1423

The coil is designed to be bolted to the ignition module witch has an oring all the way around to keep it sterile.
The module has spade connectors that protrude into it.
Regular crimp on male spade connectors push right in but do not hold well.
On my bike conversion I used a little silicone around the spade to hold it in and make it water proof. After insertion. Also pulls right off with enough pressure if you need to change it.
Be sure to use either heat sealing spades or heat shrink tubing to keep the connections dry.

BTW Do not forget the heat sink and grease on the module or you will burn it up.

I had to trim a little of the sides of the spade terminals. I put two different shirk tubing on them. One that was just big enough for the wires. And the second one slipped over the spade connecters. Now I need to cut a bracket for it.

Exactly as the diagram except these coils have 2 secondary windings instead of one.
If you ohm them out they both go to ground on the bolt holes.
Only the primary is isolated.

I'm glad I have all this help I would have gone to a mechanic if not you people.

Mark