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Old 03-16-2011, 06:13 PM   #11
rusty shackel
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Default Re: shim the Driven-Clutch

yes that will work great with that style spring but what if there spring has no ears

then what ?
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Old 03-16-2011, 06:26 PM   #12
1989Marathon
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Default Re: shim the Driven-Clutch

My original spring didn't have the tabs(ears).
The inner sheave has the hole for a spring tab. I had to drill a hole in the outer helix.
Your clutch has the 3 holes for the spring.
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Old 03-16-2011, 06:45 PM   #13
rusty shackel
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Default Re: shim the Driven-Clutch

your correct my cam doesnt have the hole it was replace , the newer replacement ones didn't have the hole.
the hole method works great sleds have used it for years you can tune them in very easy.

rusty
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:02 PM   #14
pachanga90
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Default Re: shim the Driven-Clutch

I usually shim them 1/4" and also remove the shim between the sheaves so it closes up more,lowering your lo-range more.Shimming or the spring causes the clutch to upshift later,letting you get more low-end torque,besides changing down-shift timing.I'm gonna play with more shimming this year to find the limit.Hope this helps.
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:03 AM   #15
mikeevans860
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Default Re: shim the Driven-Clutch

I really like all your pics of your build. I have the very same cart that I am not sure what I am going to do with it yet. I have pulled the motor and I think the controller is bad. the question I have is how did you lift the front ent without the leaf spring extenders. I noticed that there were there at the beginning of your build but towards the end they and gone? I also have a 83 that I am building and I am going to try the clutch thing that you did. Anyway I just purchased new shocks for my 83 and i have included pictures.

Mike
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