Does this wiring look correct?

Scottn29 · 06-09-2011, 02:10 PM

Thanks for the pointers on that Dave. I was told elsewhere that I need to hold the Carb open so it can get max air.

My next step after this one (or atleast what I was thinking), is if the compression is ok, will be to put the engine back in with new spark plug, freshly charged battery, and new spark cord, and try to turn her over. Then go from there.

Dave Box · 06-09-2011, 03:16 PM

That sounds like a plan. I hope this works out for you.

Scottn29 · 06-11-2011, 01:21 PM

I am only getting about 85 on the reading, but I think my battery in the drill was dying on me, so its on the charger now and I will retry in abit. So far though, I guess it looks like it needs a rebuild. Cant find my impact :(

Scottn29 · 06-11-2011, 02:52 PM

Well i went back and redid it with a charged drill and put a small amount of oil in the piston. Compression is about 120, so I will start to put it back in and replace the parts I listed above and see what happens.

Scottn29 · 06-11-2011, 07:00 PM

Ok, so I hooked it all back up and I see no spark whatsoever. I replaced the spark plug, spark plug wire, and ignition coil (with one from Autozone for a 78 Chevy 350.

Fuel seems to be flowing.

So I searched alittle more on here and ran across this.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-c...regulator.html

So I did the test. Put my positive lead on my meter to the positive post on the solenoid, put the negative lead on my meter to the negative post on battery.

When I turn on the ignition, the engine tries to turn over, the voltage drops and does not rise on the meter reading.

What should I do next?

Scottn29 · 06-13-2011, 02:04 PM

Bump, hopefully somebody can lead me to what I need to do next.

Dave Box · 06-13-2011, 05:36 PM

Scot,
Here are my concerns. Have you cranked over the engine using the battery and the starter? If not you must do that. If the starter/generator is shot you cannot get parts for it and your project is dead before it starts (pun intended). If it is cranking on its starter, good, now do the compression test again. 80 psi will not do and if you poured oil into the bore and got 120psi that is the classic proof that the rings / cylinder are worn beyond being any good. I would like to see the test done again as it may well be that your drill just didn't generate enough speed. Don't worry about no spark just yet that will be an easy fix but I want you to be aware of the cost implication of what you are doing. As I said before you could spend $200 on a new top end only to blow out the bottom end which as you now know is not replaceable.
To review, I would.
1. Recheck the compression using the starter motor. If it is below 100psi (with no oil in the plug hole) consider a rebuild
2. Remove the head and the cylinder and rotate the crankshaft by hand. If there is any play in the big end, game over.
3. If it feels solid then I would (and remember this is only my opinion, for what its worth) strip it down all the way. Replace the main bearings and the seals. Buy the top end overhaul kit and rebuild the engine.

You should also budget for a new fuel pump although the good news is that the carburetor looks new. You are looking at a budget of say $400 so far, how does that sit with you?

Dave

Scottn29 · 06-13-2011, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Box

Scot,
Here are my concerns. Have you cranked over the engine using the battery and the starter? If not you must do that. If the starter/generator is shot you cannot get parts for it and your project is dead before it starts (pun intended). If it is cranking on its starter, good, now do the compression test again. 80 psi will not do and if you poured oil into the bore and got 120psi that is the classic proof that the rings / cylinder are worn beyond being any good. I would like to see the test done again as it may well be that your drill just didn't generate enough speed. Don't worry about no spark just yet that will be an easy fix but I want you to be aware of the cost implication of what you are doing. As I said before you could spend $200 on a new top end only to blow out the bottom end which as you now know is not replaceable.
To review, I would.
1. Recheck the compression using the starter motor. If it is below 100psi (with no oil in the plug hole) consider a rebuild
2. Remove the head and the cylinder and rotate the crankshaft by hand. If there is any play in the big end, game over.
3. If it feels solid then I would (and remember this is only my opinion, for what its worth) strip it down all the way. Replace the main bearings and the seals. Buy the top end overhaul kit and rebuild the engine.

You should also budget for a new fuel pump although the good news is that the carburetor looks new. You are looking at a budget of say $400 so far, how does that sit with you?

Dave

$400 is fine with me. I will redo the compression test tonight, but yes teh engine is starting or trying to turn over when it is all hooked back up in the cart. I only put several drops of oil in the engine, I was just worried that without any lubrication, it might mess something up. I will redo the test and report back. Thanks

madoc1 · 06-13-2011, 06:07 PM

just for a compression test you will not mess anything up. i think dave has you covered.

06-09-2011, 02:10 PM	#41
Scottn29 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 63	Re: Does this wiring look correct? Thanks for the pointers on that Dave. I was told elsewhere that I need to hold the Carb open so it can get max air. My next step after this one (or atleast what I was thinking), is if the compression is ok, will be to put the engine back in with new spark plug, freshly charged battery, and new spark cord, and try to turn her over. Then go from there.
Scottn29 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 63

06-09-2011, 03:16 PM	#42
Dave Box Respect the Cart Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rocky Mount, Virginia Posts: 2,190	Re: Does this wiring look correct? That sounds like a plan. I hope this works out for you.

06-11-2011, 01:21 PM	#43
Scottn29 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 63	Re: Does this wiring look correct? I am only getting about 85 on the reading, but I think my battery in the drill was dying on me, so its on the charger now and I will retry in abit. So far though, I guess it looks like it needs a rebuild. Cant find my impact :(
Scottn29 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 63

06-11-2011, 02:52 PM	#44
Scottn29 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 63	Re: Does this wiring look correct? Well i went back and redid it with a charged drill and put a small amount of oil in the piston. Compression is about 120, so I will start to put it back in and replace the parts I listed above and see what happens.
Scottn29 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 63

06-11-2011, 07:00 PM	#45
Scottn29 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 63	Re: Does this wiring look correct? Ok, so I hooked it all back up and I see no spark whatsoever. I replaced the spark plug, spark plug wire, and ignition coil (with one from Autozone for a 78 Chevy 350. Fuel seems to be flowing. So I searched alittle more on here and ran across this. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-c...regulator.html So I did the test. Put my positive lead on my meter to the positive post on the solenoid, put the negative lead on my meter to the negative post on battery. When I turn on the ignition, the engine tries to turn over, the voltage drops and does not rise on the meter reading. What should I do next?
Scottn29 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 63

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06-13-2011, 02:04 PM	#46
Scottn29 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 63	Re: Does this wiring look correct? Bump, hopefully somebody can lead me to what I need to do next.
Scottn29 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 63

06-13-2011, 05:36 PM	#47
Dave Box Respect the Cart Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rocky Mount, Virginia Posts: 2,190	Re: Does this wiring look correct? Scot, Here are my concerns. Have you cranked over the engine using the battery and the starter? If not you must do that. If the starter/generator is shot you cannot get parts for it and your project is dead before it starts (pun intended). If it is cranking on its starter, good, now do the compression test again. 80 psi will not do and if you poured oil into the bore and got 120psi that is the classic proof that the rings / cylinder are worn beyond being any good. I would like to see the test done again as it may well be that your drill just didn't generate enough speed. Don't worry about no spark just yet that will be an easy fix but I want you to be aware of the cost implication of what you are doing. As I said before you could spend $200 on a new top end only to blow out the bottom end which as you now know is not replaceable. To review, I would. 1. Recheck the compression using the starter motor. If it is below 100psi (with no oil in the plug hole) consider a rebuild 2. Remove the head and the cylinder and rotate the crankshaft by hand. If there is any play in the big end, game over. 3. If it feels solid then I would (and remember this is only my opinion, for what its worth) strip it down all the way. Replace the main bearings and the seals. Buy the top end overhaul kit and rebuild the engine. You should also budget for a new fuel pump although the good news is that the carburetor looks new. You are looking at a budget of say $400 so far, how does that sit with you? Dave

06-13-2011, 06:07 PM	#49
madoc1 no clue Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: spicewood, texas Posts: 3,308	Re: Does this wiring look correct? just for a compression test you will not mess anything up. i think dave has you covered.

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