Driven Clutch Nightmare

[Springbok]

Here's where I'm at. For the past two days I've been trying to remove my driven clutch to be sent out for a power spring and machining. I didn't expect this to be a huge issue given that most guys say the driven clutch all but falls off once you remove the center bolt. I wasn't so lucky.

1. I removed the center bolt, tried tapping with a rubber hammer. Nothing.
   
2. I doused the clutch with PB Blaster and let it sit overnight, tried rubber hammer again. Nothing.
   
3. More PB and a urethane hammer. Still nothing.
   
4. Put a small prybar behind in between the clutch and the case. Broke a finger off the cam assembly. At this point I knew I was past the point of no return.
   
5. Used a heavier hammer and a punch to try and hit the clutch closest to the shaft to get it off. Nothing.
   
6. More hammering, broke inner sheave. Decided to just break the sheaves off since they were just in the way and the clutch was really done for at this point.
   
7. Got a three-finger puller and put it around what was left of the sheave (which was now closer to the shaft and seemed like I'd have a good chance of removal). Nope. Sheave broke even more.
   
8. Once the sheave was pretty much out of the way I removed the spring and got the finger puller on the backside of the fixed sheave shaft. This I thought would surely be successful. Nope. The centerbolt of the puller started dishing out the center bolt hole.

The only thing I think will work now is sawing through what's left of the clutch and try not to damage the input shaft.

[Buickguy]

Yikes!
That is a problem.
I'm with you on the cut and remove. If you have a die grinder with a cutoff wheel and are careful enough, you should be able to get it off of the shaft.
My big fear would be that even cut there might be corrosion welding what left of the clutch to the input shaft.

[Springbok]

I have a Dremel with some metal cutoff attachments, maybe just cutting some reliefs and then chiseling them out might make things easier.

[sassycat]

from looking at the pic ,how about ,maybe trying a ball joint fork,or tie rod fork ..if one will fit behind it and slide over the shafte a lil you may get it off by using other shims or washers at an angle then smack the fork to make it tight against the clutch nub..seems like it would have to give,if you can get a good hit on the fork handle..just a thought..
looks like a good time for a lil heat if you keep the heat on the broke part.
seems like cuting reliefs should work also,,just be careful

[lockman1]

Do NOT use a Pickle fork!!! The aluminum trans case will crack!

Relief cuts are your best bet!

[Springbok]

I had a pickle fork that I was using...gently and with much caution, but it was too thick to get in between the case and the back of the clutch. I had already read up (thanks to Lockman) on the aluminum case and the ease as to which it may crack.

[Springbok]

Bleh.

I got the clutch down to the sleeve. Contrary to what I've heard everywhere, these driven clutches are not 100% aluminum. The sleeve that I still can't remove (pictured) is most definitely made of steel. I cut three reliefs but I can't complete them because my cutting wheel will hit the transmission case.

So I think the next step is to split the case in order to remove the input shaft so I can continue trying to get what's left of this clutch off. I've never disassembled one of these cases. Are they a big deal? Any special tools needed to get the input shaft out? It seems like I have plenty of room to remove the tranny case without having to pull the whole axle.

[Tonka329]

How about making a relief cut all the way through where the keyway is. That way, you will only need to replace the keyway??

[DOOmsman]

Heat it with a propane torch and quench with ICE water.

[KRAZYMATT]

i dont think splitting the rear end will help you much the shaft goes through from the inside and the shaft passes through a seal on the case. i dont think you will be ablke to slide the shaft out with the part of the clutch stuck on there still. try a little heat or make 2 cuts right next to each other then try prying it open i suggest cutting into where the key is so you cut into the key and not your shaft.... that sucks. pretty much same thing that happened to me.