Electric Club Car Left Rear Wheel Not Turning

[MatityahuDavid]

I have an electric Club Car that is a few years old. The 8 volt (6) batteries are from 2014. I first noticed an issue when the cart battery light came on after running for about 100 yards. The batteries seem fine. The voltmeter shows each at about 8.3 volts (standing still), about 7.9 while running (rear jacked). Cables look descent, heads are clean. Tested the solenoid and it didn't show any voltage, running or not. I noticed that at times, the left rear did not spin as fast or not at all. It's also making a noise from that area. When I help it spin, the noise disappears.

If I pull the wheel, what am I looking for? Could it be the axle? The motor?

Thank you.

[The Big Weezy]

It has an open rear differential. Which means power is applied to whichever wheel has the least resistance. It is normal for this type of rear end to spin one wheel more than the other when jacked up in the air and no load on the wheels. The noise you hear is likely the spider gears in the differential. The spider gears allow the wheels to rotate at different speeds when the vehicle is turning. If you can spin either wheel by hand and feel no drag or resistance, there probably isn't anything wrong with it. If there is drag, check you brake adjustment. If there is no unusual noise from the differential under normal operation, then I suspect there is no issue with it.

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[The Big Weezy]

Originally Posted by MatityahuDavid

I have an electric Club Car that is a few years old. The 8 volt (6) batteries are from 2014. I first noticed an issue when the cart battery light came on after running for about 100 yards. The batteries seem fine. The voltmeter shows each at about 8.3 volts (standing still), about 7.9 while running (rear jacked). Cables look descent, heads are clean. Tested the solenoid and it didn't show any voltage, running or not. I noticed that at times, the left rear did not spin as fast or not at all. It's also making a noise from that area. When I help it spin, the noise disappears.



If I pull the wheel, what am I looking for? Could it be the axle? The motor?



Thank you.

And you need to monitor battery voltage with a volt meter while it is under load. Your batteries are 5 years old. They are likely on their way out. How low does the voltage go on a sustained incline or while accelerating if you cant find a hill.

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[MatityahuDavid]

Thanks. Glad I asked (about the rear) before taking things apart.

I have a hand size voltmeter, how can I measure it under load? Meaning, do I ride for a while, stop, and quickly test? Or do you mean testing while riding?

[The Big Weezy]

You will need to hook your positive lead (red) to pack positive and negative lead (black) to pack negative. Run your meter leads out from under the seat so you can see the meter. Drive the cart and see how low the pack voltage drops while moving. In particular while accelerating from a stop, preferably up an incline. Report back with your readings. If you can't look at the meter while driving, have someone else drive to be safe.

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[MatityahuDavid]

I'll need to get some alligator grips but I'm wondering... the batteries are 5 years old and not Trojans. We bought the cart used and I suspect the battery life is gone.

[The Big Weezy]

I would agree with that. You have no idea if they were properly maintained before you got the cart. Battery life is roughly 5 years with a bunch of factors that could cause them to last longer/shorter than 5 years.

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[yawood]

I agree with all the posters about the batteries and the open differential. Just be aware that part of your maintenance schedule should be to check/fill the diff oil at regular intervals (the book says annually or every 100 hours of operation). I would also drain it and refill every few years.

The diff has a high fill plug and a low drain plug. Loosen the fill plug first (you don't want to drain it and then find that you can't get the fill plug out). Fill it until the oil is oozing out from the bottom of the fill plug.

This thread is helpful for the type of lubricant.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...end-fluid.html

[carolinaguy99]

Does anyone make a locker or limited slip for the precedent?

[MatityahuDavid]

Originally Posted by The Big Weezy

You will need to hook your positive lead (red) to pack positive and negative lead (black) to pack negative. Run your meter leads out from under the seat so you can see the meter. Drive the cart and see how low the pack voltage drops while moving. In particular while accelerating from a stop, preferably up an incline. Report back with your readings. If you can't look at the meter while driving, have someone else drive to be safe.

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Going up and down slight inclines: (1) 6.9-7.0; (2) 7.1-7.2; (3) 6.9-7.1; (4) 6.9-71; (5) 6.8-6.9; (6) 6.0-7.1. Each dropped to about 6.7 or 6.8 at initial acceleration. Didn't go far before the yellow light kicked on and later was blinking. This means that instead of 48v (total), it's getting about 40.8-42.6. That can't be good.