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Old 03-03-2012, 09:27 PM   #1
Stehle
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Default Testing Chargers

I have a bunch of old 36V chargers, (Manual Lesters, Textrons, etc.), but I would like to test them.

They all hum, (perhaps it is just fuses or diodes?) when plugged in to a cart & turned on. (Amp meter barely moves.), but how do you test those?

My last Lester Auto (that gave me years of service ) was taken to repair shop, and was told "it had issues" and I left with the cord, plug-adapter for the cart & a buzz in my head.

Most of my chargers cable though the shop wall, so removing for shop repair is a bit of an issue for me.

A fixed income & not wanting a inadvertent lethal charge weigh heavily on my mind right now.

Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

TIA!
Dave
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:17 AM   #2
JohnnieB
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Default Re: Testing Chargers

Almost 100% of the old chargers (Manual or Automatic) that have a transformer with a big capacitor connected to it are totally repairable.
The only component that is not typically replaced is the transformer, which is readily available, but costs about the same as a replacement charger.

If the automatic Lester carcass is still at the repair shop, get it back and give it to someone that feels comfortable working inside electrical devices.

If the transformer hums and there is low Amps on the ammeter and the battery pack is discharged a little, the most likely causes are bad diode(s), bad fuses/circuit breakers, or a bad capacitor.

All can be checked with power off.
The diodes can be checked with an Ohmmeter. (1N1184 or 1N1188 will work for replacements - Replace both diodes even if only one tests bad)
The fuses or circuit breaker with an Ohmmeter. (If fuse/breaker is blown - Make sure diodes are good before turning on)
The capacitors by substitution. (Be sure the substitute has the same MFD value.)

Attached is a schematic of a Lester manual charger, but they all work about the same.
The AC Power is on the left side of the transformer. Either a timer or a relay controlled by a control board, turns the charger on and off. (May or may not be a fuse or breaker in AC power side)
The DC output is on the left side of the Transformer. They all have two diodes mounted on a heat sink (Positive output) and the Negative output comes from the center tap of the transformer and goes through the ammeter and maybe a fuse or fuses or a circuit breaker.

Hope this helps.
John
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File Type: jpg Manual with timer.JPG (34.2 KB, 11 views)
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:43 PM   #3
Stehle
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Default Re: Testing Chargers

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
...
Hope this helps.
John
...and it DID!!

Thank you VERY much JohnnieB!

(Read some earlier posts, but lacked the details of your reply. I'm heading out to the shop tomorrow with the Fluker's in hand and do my damndest not to get bit!)
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:59 PM   #4
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Default Re: Testing Chargers

Still alive!

Okay, a day or so to find the good Ohmmeters. (The Harbor Freight free ones I've collected though the years just didn't seem suitable for this important a project.)

Wasted the rest of the week cleaning the shop to get to the shelves with the chargers. (Funny how you start off so good, but get sidetracked when you have read the many informative threads on here about "builds","4X4 conversions" & the like.)

Anyway, finally got to work on a trusty manual Lester which seemed to work fine charging my old 36v EZGO for a couple of days about the time of my first post. It seemed to die soon after my "Testing Chargers" thread. (Murphy' Law thoughts have swirled in my mind ever since!)

I tested the diodes & fuse for continuity, following the schematic JohnnieB so graciously posted for me; which is all I could really do with power off right? They all checked OK.

I started to do this to the big capacitor, but hesitated... remembering JohnnieB's post about "by substitution" and stopped. Perhaps self preservation kicked in dunno.

I will not call this adventure a failure, as it kept my mind focused and even in a small way may have been fraught with some real danger.

(Heck! It got me back into that shop for the longest time since my second stroke 2 years ago! Thanks JohnnieB!!)

New question? (Perhaps related to first.)

Is there anything else that can keep the amp meter still (barely move on your charger) & your cart not charging? I'm beginning to suspect that cart itself yet all connections to the batteries have been re-tightened today. Still no go.

What else do I need to check? Can a bad battery do that? Another connection I missed? I made a quick lap on the cart tonight; though it was very weak, it still ran.

Now this is my priority, but perhaps I can eliminate two problems with the one answer.

TIA
Fish Farmer Dave
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:15 AM   #5
JohnnieB
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Default Re: Testing Chargers

If you have more than one charger that isn't working with a single golf cart, the problem is most likely the cart rather than the chargers.

I'm reading between the lines, but it sounds like the cart sat for a while without the batteries being maintained. If so, they might be bad.

If at all possible, try charging your cart with a charger that is known to be good, or try your manual chargers with a cart whose battery pack is known to take a charge.


Also, but only if you feel comfortable doing it.
What is the battery Pack voltage before charger is attached to cart?
What are the individual battery voltages before charger is attached?
What is the battery pack voltage after charger is attach and turned on?
What are the individual battery voltages after charger is attach and turned on?
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Old 03-11-2012, 04:37 PM   #6
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Default Re: Testing Chargers

I got everything together, then dodged the rain most of the day.

I will hopefully have the metered results on all the batteries soon.

Thanks again JohnnieB!
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:20 PM   #7
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Default Re: Testing Chargers

Okay...

Before Attaching Charger (Off)

Total Battery Pack: 36.1

Individual Battery (Left to Right) :

Starting with +
6.4, 5.8, 5.6

6.1, 6.1, 6.3
Ending with -

After Attaching Charger (On)

No discernible change from my visual metered observation*.

*Perhaps Important... In the past I noticed a distinct change in the charger "hum" that they made when everything was right. Plugging in several carts almost nightly since the '80s and being on the other side of the shop wall I learned to listen for a change in pitch (hum as it were) to a more robust, deeper sound (sort of like going from tenor to bass), as you plugged them in.

Tonight I didn't hear that change and in an audible cue, the charger simply remained a tenor.

Both a manual Textron & a Lester were used, no difference there.

So what do you think?

TIA
Fish Farmer Dave
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:55 AM   #8
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Default Re: Testing Chargers

The low voltages on the front-center and front-right batteries indicate they are bad, but low voltage may be due to them being used to power 12V accessories.
I don't like the 0.3V spread between the other four batteries either, they ought to be taking a charge.

I also don't like the 0.2V difference between the measured pack voltage (36.1V) and the sum of the individual battery voltages (36.3V).
That indicates there is resistance in the interconnecting cables or connections, or it could be a mathematical issue due to rounding.
Individual battery voltages are typical stated down to 1/100th volt. (IE: a fully charged 6V battery is about 6.37V)
On the other hand, pack voltage is typically only stated down to 1/10th because 3 1/2 DVMs are typically used. (IE: a fully charged 36V pack is about 38.2V)

Without waxing poetically, please answer two questions.
What is the pack voltage before the charger is attached?
What is the pack voltage after the charger has been attached for fifteen minutes?

Also, if there is a fuse in either of the wires from the charger receptacle to the battery pack, verify it is good.


---------
FWIW: There is an aural perception of louder low frequency tones having a lower pitch than the same tone at a lower sound pressure level, but the true change is more timbre than pitch.
Whether the 60Hz hum is soft or loud, it is still 60Hz, or whatever the AC line frequency is at the moment.
It's akin to A over middle C sounding different on a guitar and piano, yet both are 440hz.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:58 AM   #9
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Default Re: Testing Chargers

The voltage reading before and after connecting the charger is an important measurement because very badly sulfated batteries (if that is the case here) have an extremely high resistance and allow very little current to flow. Also, voltage will be quite high with no/low current flow. Good luck - RAY

Last edited by bigstik40; 03-13-2012 at 12:00 PM.. Reason: clarified
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:19 PM   #10
Stehle
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Default Re: Testing Chargers

Okay, will check the pack again with another charger connected, but it seems since the amp meter needle doesn't really move on any of them... wait! I know I'll check the voltage coming out of the charger to the pack, that may also tell us something!

(Thought... I'm beginning to think ALL my chargers are bad; leading me back to the original post.) {sigh}

Thank you for all the help so far; I am seeing things quite differently now.

[edit: I have few extra batteries (older, but checked good last summer), on a float charger in a separate garage. I will replace any you deem necessary if you think that may be my charger problem. I held on to them for a rainy day... which may bit cloudy out now.]

Last edited by Stehle; 03-13-2012 at 01:29 PM.. Reason: Added Battery Note
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