Did I Fry My Voltage Reducer

[WIN.308]

I have a 48v setup in my 2002 Series with a scottyb voltage reducer. In trying to get 12v to hook up my spray rig I accidentaly arced the 12v wire coming out of the reducer onto the frame, blowing the fusible link. Replaced the fuse but now no headlights. I have so many darn wires and its been awhile since I installed this stuff so I'm not sure what to check. Could I have fried the reducer? Thanks much....

[rib33024]

yes you could of fried the reducer, you do know that you DO NOT ground any wires to the frame on a cart, all grounds go straight to the battery post/ground

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by WIN.308

..............I have so many darn wires and its been awhile since I installed this stuff so I'm not sure what to check..............

This might be a good time to:
1. Trace out those "darn" wires.
2. Eliminate using the cart's frame (accidentally or intentionally) as a part of any electrical circuit.
3. Draw a wiring diagram for future reference.

You should be able to determine if the voltage reducer is toast or not by measuring its output voltage.

If the voltage reducer put out a higher voltage before the fusible link blew, the light bulbs may have burnt out also.

The current that took out the fusible link, might have taken out the light switch also.

Sorry I cannot be of more help, but I don't know where or how those "darn" wires are connected either.

[WIN.308]

LOL thanks...I guess to check voltage I should see around 12v with one lead on the wire coming out of the reducer and the black lead on a negative battery post?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by WIN.308

...I guess to check voltage I should see around 12v with one lead on the wire coming out of the reducer and the black lead on a negative battery post?

I don't know for sure, but I would like to believe whoever designed your voltage reducer had the foresight to isolate the output from the input.

There ought to be two wires (+ and -) for the 12V output and they should not be connected in any way to the + and - from the battery pack.
Nor should one side of either input or output be connected to chassis of Voltage Reducer.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

I don't know for sure, but I would like to believe whoever designed your voltage reducer had the foresight to isolate the output from the input.

There ought to be two wires (+ and -) for the 12V output and they should not be connected in any way to the + and - from the battery pack.
Nor should one side of either input or output be connected to chassis of Voltage Reducer.

Mine has a 48 volt positive, a 48 volt remote on/off, which is connected to my key switch, but the negative is common for the 48 volt side and the 12 volt side, which I wanted. That allows me to power my stereo from the converter, which is switched, but use 12 volts from the battery pack for my stereo memory wire.

[WIN.308]

Thanks for the replies...What I meant to ask is: To check my voltage reducer to see if it is still performing correctly (since my headlights no longer work), I'm thinking I take my Fluke, touch the red lead on the Fluke to the 12v wire coming out of the reducer, touch the black Fluke wire to a negative battery terminal, and I should see around 12 or 13v on the Fluke, if it is more than 12 or 13v, I can assume my reducer is toast? Or is that not the correct way to check it?

[Gonkulor]

Originally Posted by WIN.308

Thanks for the replies...What I meant to ask is: To check my voltage reducer to see if it is still performing correctly (since my headlights no longer work), I'm thinking I take my Fluke, touch the red lead on the Fluke to the 12v wire coming out of the reducer, touch the black Fluke wire to a negative battery terminal, and I should see around 12 or 13v on the Fluke, if it is more than 12 or 13v, I can assume my reducer is toast? Or is that not the correct way to check it?

Disconnect both (+) and (-) output wires from everything the reducer might feed and check across them. Nothing in the reducers output circuits should have anything to do with your carts battery system.

[Gonkulor]

Seeing that you purchased this from Carts Unlimited you should be guaranteed the reducer doesn't have a secondary chassis ground. Beware of adding components that may have a chassis ground, even if an item installed has 2 wire leads coming out of it. I always meter my components, one lead to the metal box, chassis, whatever it is and the other lead once to the negative and positive wire for a reading. Then I swap the leads around and do it again. Just to be sure.

[WIN.308]

Thanks much Gonk, I really appreciate your response, will check the reducer as instructed.