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Old 04-02-2012, 09:23 AM   #1
Silverstreak
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Default Big, exploded, labeled pic of F/R assembly?

I've looked through the stickies and have done a search and can't seem to come up with a very large, thorough picture of a F/R assembly. I have a 2006 TXT series. Just trying to figure out how it works.
My reverse works intermittently and I'm trying to fix it myself.
Also, if anyone could explain how it works in simple terms, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:38 AM   #2
scottyb
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Default Re: Big, exploded, labeled pic of F/R assembly?

The F&R is a rotary switch. The main housing has 4 cable terminals and the rotary cam has 4 contacts which are paired together by buss bars. There is not a lot of 'repair' that can be done especially if the switch has gotten hot and the contacts have sunk in the plastic housing.
Some people claim they have disassembled and cleaned the contacts and got them working good but, I'm skeptical as to how long this 'fix' will last. Here is the exploded view with a few tech notes from my documents. I hope this helps.
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File Type: jpg F&R Exploded View for web jpeg.jpg (125.3 KB, 0 views)
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:44 AM   #3
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Default Re: Big, exploded, labeled pic of F/R assembly?

Attachment #1 is a drawing of the high current circuit for a generic series cart.
It shows how everything is connected in series and how the F/R switch has current flowing through the stator fields in one direction for forward and the other direction for reverse.

Attachment #2 is a drawing of the cable side of an F/R switch. The four heavy cables attached to studs that go through the plastic and become the fixed (Non-Moving) high current contacts.

Attachment #3 is a picture (stolen from scottyb's website) of a F/R cam, showing the heavy copper bars and contacts that complete the circuit between the fixed contacts.

Attachment #4 is a drawing showing how to test the F/R switch for continuity (also from scottyb)

Finally, here is scotty's page on F/R switches.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/F_R_Switch_Upgrades.html

I see Scotty has posted while I was stealing stuff from his site, but I'll post anyways.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Hi Current Circuit - Series Motor - EDITED.JPG (63.6 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg TXT Series F-N-R wiring.JPG (62.8 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg F-n-R cam - img_5466_9yv7.jpg (36.0 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Ezgo F&R cam test.jpg (57.2 KB, 0 views)
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:23 AM   #4
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Default Re: Big, exploded, labeled pic of F/R assembly?

Thanks Scotty and Johnnie!
I hope I can make sense of things.
Where on these pics would I apply a little dielectric grease?
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Old 04-02-2012, 11:35 AM   #5
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Default Re: Big, exploded, labeled pic of F/R assembly?

So Johnnie......on the pic of the cam, when I turn the F/R knob, it turns the device on the right to line up on the device on the left in just the right positions to make it go forward to backwards? Is there a way of cleaning those contact points? Is that where dielectric grease goes?
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:24 PM   #6
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Default Re: Big, exploded, labeled pic of F/R assembly?

I will post back later when I have more time and try to Help You. Don't worry it is possible to repair the Switch. I'm 15 and I did it myself.

LOL

Matt
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:25 PM   #7
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Default Re: Big, exploded, labeled pic of F/R assembly?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverstreak View Post
So Johnnie......
1. on the pic of the cam, when I turn the F/R knob, it turns the device on the right to line up on the device on the left in just the right positions to make it go forward to backwards?
2. Is there a way of cleaning those contact points?
3. Is that where dielectric grease goes?
1. Actually there are Two cams in the picture, one showing the front, the other showing the back. You've got the way it works correct. The bumps at the ends of the two copper bus bars make contact with the four stationary contacts on the part that doesn't move.
2. Yes, some people have done it. I've never done it or seen it done, but having worked on high power contacts in other applications, I'm pretty sure it would only be a temporary fix.
3. Lubricate the four bumps on the cam and the four stationary contacts with it.

The F/R switch is critical to good performance, so in my opinion, it would be best to go with complete Heavy Duty switch, but you might get away with just installing a Heavy Duty Cam if the stationary contacts are too badly arced or out of position due heat softening the plastic they are mounted in.

The thing to remember is that total current passes through all the high current cables, batteries, controller, solenoid, F/R switch and motor equally, so the series chain is only as good as the weakest link in it.
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:46 PM   #8
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Default Re: Big, exploded, labeled pic of F/R assembly?

I dismantled mine and did all the rough work with steel wool and brake parts cleaner. I then put the buffing pad on the Dremel and went to work with chrome polishing compound. If it is made of copper, shine it up as best you can. Before I reassembled it, I covered everything with dielectric grease. I think my biggest problem was just the oxidation and not wear. My cart had sat outside for umpteen years after the batteries gave out collecting mildew slowly sinking into the soil from whence it arose. I dragged it out of the hole it was in with my old man's 4x4. I had lots of work to do to return it to functional status. The old gal is feeling a lot more love these days, but I'm still going to be replacing that switch in the near future.
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:14 PM   #9
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Default Re: Big, exploded, labeled pic of F/R assembly?

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Old 04-02-2012, 03:22 PM   #10
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Default Re: Big, exploded, labeled pic of F/R assembly?

Quote:
Originally Posted by kab69440 View Post
I dismantled mine and did all the rough work with steel wool and brake parts cleaner. I then put the buffing pad on the Dremel and went to work with chrome polishing compound. If it is made of copper, shine it up as best you can. Before I reassembled it, I covered everything with dielectric grease. I think my biggest problem was just the oxidation and not wear. My cart had sat outside for umpteen years after the batteries gave out collecting mildew slowly sinking into the soil from whence it arose. I dragged it out of the hole it was in with my old man's 4x4. I had lots of work to do to return it to functional status. The old gal is feeling a lot more love these days, but I'm still going to be replacing that switch in the near future.
I did much the same as Kab but only paid someone to dig it out of the hole then I pushed it on the trailer. My new HD switch and solenoid should be here today or tomorrow My switch didn't have any of the heat damage that some do so I disassembled it and cleaned it up sanding the contacts and polishing. The problem with filing, sanding, polishing the contacting surfaces is to make sure all surfaces are parallel. If, or when, I ever do it again I think I would mount the assy in a vise. Loosen the cam nut enough to slide a 1" wide 12" long strip of 600 grit emery cloth between one stud contact pair and then tighten the cam nut back down tight enough to pull the emery through without tearing. Do that with all contact pairs, many times and then move the cam to the other position rinse/repeat. Doing that maybe 3 times rotating the switch.

The problem is getting all the contact pairs to be in 100% contact at all positions. Less contact will produce heat and heat will eventually cause failure.

Pictures exploded but not labeled. Now I'm just being a smart alack
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File Type: jpg oh my.jpg (277.2 KB, 0 views)
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