Big, exploded, labeled pic of F/R assembly?

[pjmia96]

Now i'm Not Sure if this is the EXACT part you need in your situation. In my situation when this happened to me I had a spare Cam Assembly lying around. I installed it made everything nice and tight and it worked great. It might not be as easy for you but it could be I wont know for sure. (IF) this is your problem you will need the part I linked to.

http://playersgolfcars.com/index.php...roducts_id=766

Let us know what happens,

Matt

[pjmia96]

P.S, I did not buy anything from anywhere.

The link just shows you the Part with the Model #

Matt

[Silverstreak]

Thanks everyone.
I forgot to mention that I only really started having problems after I smelled something like hot plastic and tried to tighten up every bolt there was.........on the batteries and the F/R assembly. Is it possible that I tighted up something on there too much?

[scottyb]

The smell of hot melting plastic means plastic is melting.

In my experience ...
You will not fix the melted housing with sandpaper and WD40

It is time for a new HD switch.

[Silverstreak]

Does the cover for the F/R assembly normally feel a little bit warm? I'm not even sure that's where the smell is coming from. Its just a faint smell.
Would I be able to replace it with a new one myself (a non-mechanic, but fairly bright)?
Is it the entire thing under the cover that I would replace, or just part of it?
Wish I had a second cart, so I could play with taking this one apart, while still having a way to get around.
Is there something that tends to wear out this assembly?
The knob/rod is very hard to use. If I haven't greased that, would that put enough stress on the mechanism to wear it down? I have noticed that when I move the knob, it can move the big bolt in the assembly a little.
And to repeat.........might have I tightened one of the bolts on there too tight?

[scottyb]

I'm not meaning to offend but, F&R replacement or rebuilding does require mechanical ability.

Indiscriminate tightening of all the F&R bolts may have resulted in setting the rotary switch cam tension too tight. It's the larger center bolt. Not every one is destined to be their own mechanic.
Some people are better off finding a good tech and using this site to boost their knowledge base about what the tech is doing for them.

[Silverstreak]

No offense taken at all scottyb!

My old mechanic closed up shop and I'm in the process of trying to find another one in this area. We may end up having to buy a trailer to take it where ever we can find someone.
When you say the larger center bolt, do you mean the main shaft bolt that the F/R rod attaches to?
I envy you guys who maybe were raised to be exposed to this stuff, or took shop, etc. It doesn't mean I can't learn it now, but it isn't easy. I really appreciate the help I get here.

[rib33024]

yes he's talking about the main shaft bolt that the F/R rod attaches to, that bolt need to be just right to make the F/R work, if it's to tight it will hang up and be hard to shift, if it's to loose it will spark and burn things up, and can catch fire




The nut on X in the pic

[Silverstreak]

Thanks Rib.........I guess I won't know what that amount of tightness is, without a torque wrench, right?

[scottyb]

Back it off a quarter of a turn. Then see if it is improved..... 1/4 more and so on.... too loose and it will not make good contact which will arc and ruin the contacts, causing heat which will melt the studs in the housing and cause you to replace the switch.
I know you have been looking for a mechanic for more than a year, my guess you only look when it doesn't run

I wasn't raised with a mechanic. I went to tech schools and then practiced making mistakes which culminated in experience

You can learn but just remember it's gonna cost ya, You are going to make mistakes and things are going to go badly now and then. All the diagrams & info needed was provided early on in this thread.

Removed the cover from the F&R and post some detailed pics of what you see. Maybe we can tell you what you are looking at.