Added ScottyB's Voltage Reducer

[scottyb]

Correct me if I am wrong but the reducer is off unless the keyswitch is on. Other reducers may stay on all the time but this one is switched on and off.
This connection break is not needed just something you wanted.

[Sergio]

May I suggest you put a note or redraw that "storage" switch.

It looks a lot like a SPDT wired for self destruction.

I believe you meant for the "brown" pin to be the negative for your switch 48v pilot light, but that indicator LED which would be always ON, will consume more power than the converter when is idle, I would remove it.

[Weedeaterman]

Originally Posted by Sergio

May I suggest you put a note or redraw that "storage" switch.

It looks a lot like a SPDT wired for self destruction.

I believe you meant for the "brown" pin to be the negative for your switch 48v pilot light, but that indicator LED which would be always ON, will consume more power than the converter when is idle, I would remove it.

Ok hence why I posted it! I am not a mechanic and I wanted to know. But on line and several you-tubes show the drawing the way I have it. So I am confused.

Henry

[Weedeaterman]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Correct me if I am wrong but the reducer is off unless the keyswitch is on. Other reducers may stay on all the time but this one is switched on and off.
This connection break is not needed just something you wanted.

I asked that and could not get a definite answer sir, does the yellow wire turn the unit completely off. I red in your notes no, I thought.

Quote:

TECH notes > Important note below.
Power supply in and out share a common negative (-) supply.

Installer must supply wire connections, switches, and lights.
Some early Club Car carts used negative at the key switch. For these carts a separate on/off switch is used or a key switch activated relay can be used.
This would be a relay like the one found in a cart charger.
12v accessory power can be made as simple or as complicated as you like it... But remember do not leave the reducer on full time.
It will drain the batteries down and likely shorten the reducer's useful life...
I hope this helps.

Or does this mean the yellow wire tot he key switch will turn it off?

[Sergio]

The way the better voltage converters work (buck or inverter), require capacitors on the input side.

Those capacitors need to remain charged, so there is a small amount of current (mil-amps) that flow into the converter to replenish the self-discharge rate of the capacitors.

The "Yellow" or trigger wire will disable the converter 12v output and generation circuit, so the only current being used by the converter is the capacitor maintenance current.

An LED on a switch will draw about 20ma, so it does not make sense to have one on the long term storage switch.

A plain toggle switch would be a good idea if the cart will not be used for an extended period of time (months), but don't use a switch with an indicator light.

[Weedeaterman]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The way the better voltage converters work (buck or inverter), require capacitors on the input side.

Those capacitors need to remain charged, so there is a small amount of current (mil-amps) that flow into the converter to replenish the self-discharge rate of the capacitors.

The "Yellow" or trigger wire will disable the converter 12v output and generation circuit, so the only current being used by the converter is the capacitor maintenance current.

An LED on a switch will draw about 20ma, so it does not make sense to have one on the long term storage switch.

A plain toggle switch would be a good idea if the cart will not be used for an extended period of time (months), but don't use a switch with an indicator light.

Got it now, thank you! Scratch my idea!

[Weedeaterman]

Originally Posted by Weedeaterman

I redid the drawing to show a 20 Amp Cut out switch with a indicator light. This way the reducer can be turned off for storage, the ignition switch will cover the 12 colt side for anything like the radio and or lights and or so on.

Disregard, Bad idea and not needed!

[Sergio]

Also, look for a marine radio that is listed as having "Non-Volatile Memory" for clock and presets.

Those will work a lot better with voltage converters.

[scottyb]

Another point is rather than chase down mila-amp drains, provide a maintenance charge. The lead acid batteries removed from all connections will loose 1% of their charge per day. This is a thousand times more than the amount we are discussing here. So by design they need to maintained when left for 30 days unused. Just a heads up.