Trouble shooting 1995 36volt ez go

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by ncseadad

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1. with black probe on (pack negative (BL) ) I have pack voltage (37.1) at the following: on both large post of solenoid, B+, A, D on F/R switch, S2, S1 on motor, B & C on F/R switch and back to A2 on motor.

2. All my high current on the wiring diagram seems to be correct...NOTE: this test was done with out the resister and diode connected on the solenoid.

3. JohnnieB.....since I don't have voltage on previous test BUT I have correct current on high current...What is the next step...Do we need to back up...

Thanks
Bill

1. If you have Battery voltage at A2, the problem is between A2 and M-. That narrows it down to the cable between M- and A1, the Brushes in the motor or, the Armature windings.

2. The diode reduces arcing on the pedal microswitch contacts and the resistor reduces arcing on the solenoid's contacts.
They are not actually needed for operation, but they do extend the life of the components they protect.

3. I'm not sure how you've reached that conclusion. If the current was correct, the motor would be spinning, or something would be smoking. Normal current in the high current loop for a series cart is up to about 275A during acceleration and about 50A to 75A while cruising at top speed.

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Measure between M- and A1 with your DVM. Unless the cable is bad, it will be Zero volts.

Measure between A1 and A2 with your DVM. When the solenoid first clicks, it should be Zero volts, or very near it. If you read battery voltage, the motor is bad.
(It might be just the brushes, but considering the age, I'd ship it to Plum Quick for a complete overhaul.)

[ncseadad]

JohnnieB....You are the "MAN"..... It is the cable between (M-) and (A1)....While doing the test on your last reply, I also did a continuity test and had nothing between the above contacts. All the wires looked good and felt strong between the controller and motor, however with a closer look, I found that wire burnt completely into in a metal wiring bracket that is bolted to the frame.
This however presents another problem: When I went to take the nut loose from the stud on the motor (A1) I noticed the entire stud turns and as of now still can't get the double nut off. You can turn the stud with your fingers.

Can that be fixed? How is the stud connected inside the motor?...Is it worth it to repair? If so, can you send instructions how what I need to do to fix it, or how to get the motor out...

Thanks
Bill

[JohnnieB]

I do theoretical troubleshooting on the forum and have only worked on my own cart, so I'm probably not the best person to answer your motor removal/repair questions.

Here is what the manual for a Medalist cart says about removing motor, but I've never removed one.
(If your cart has a metal body it's probably a Medalist and if the body is plastic, it's probably a TXT)

Personally, I'd remove the motor and ship it to Plum Quick and let them do their magic on it.
http://www.plumquick.com/

Or you could open a new thread with questions about rebuilding the motor yourself and you'll probably get some replies/tips from people that have done it.