48v upgrade problems/concerns

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by cableguy_hd

Pretty sure I tried that. I guess now my concern is why I have different readings at the pins going off of what Johnny b was saying... Or am I just being to darn anal about the whole thing. It runs great and I'm very satisfied. Just don't want to burn up anything if its not right

It's refreshing to hear you are concerned the controller isn't acting quite right.

Since the cart is running more or less as expected, I believe the reason the LED isn't doing what it is supposed tobe doing, is either the voltage on Pin-1 (Logic power) is lower than it should be, or the controller has an internal problem.

I'm not sure if your cart is wired like the attached schematic, but it should be pretty close.
As you see, the highlighted line connects to B+ through several switches, wires, connections, diodes and fuses, and any one of them could have excessive resistance, causing low voltage at Pin-1.

Connect the Negative test lead to the main negative post on the battery pack and measure the voltage at Pin-1.

If it is less than the full battery pack voltage, start moving the positive test lead to points closer to the main positive terminal of battery pack until you find it.

If you have the diode installed in the line as shown, the voltage will be 0.6V less than full battery pack voltage.

[cableguy_hd]

since it had been a few months passed when I took my batteries out I used the diagram you listed.
I did check with volt meter- neg lead on neg battery pack and pos lead on pin 1 and got 1v. I thought I did it wrong
so I need to troubleshoot all wires from B+ to controller? I'm still baffeled on why it worked and now it stoppped ( led light ) when all I did is replace batteries
I did use a diode on the solenoid.


up at 3am on a Sunday to answer questions.... Thanks

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by cableguy_hd

since it had been a few months passed when I took my batteries out I used the diagram you listed.
I did check with volt meter- neg lead on neg battery pack and pos lead on pin 1 and got 1v. I thought I did it wrong
so I need to troubleshoot all wires from B+ to controller? I'm still baffeled on why it worked and now it stoppped ( led light ) when all I did is replace batteries
I did use a diode on the solenoid.


up at 3am on a Sunday to answer questions.... Thanks

You're right, the voltage wasn't.

How the solenoid is working and the voltage on pin-1 is so low was driving me bonkers until I took a look at the stock schematic for a series cart.
My guess is that the red wire between the solenoid and Pin-1 is bad. (And those are betting odds. )

Probably got bumped or wiggled while you were working on beeper wiring.

--------
I pigged out on burgers and buttermilk and fell asleep watching the NASCAR Nationwide series race. SWMBO didn't wake me up until she went to bed around two AM and I couldn't get to sleep, so I got up.

[cableguy_hd]

Glad to hear theres another NASCAR fan here....
I'm making progress but still cant wrap my head around this. OK....
Found a bad (black in color) wire from beeper to solenoid that was in flex loom... Fixed that and now when I press pedal my light comes on like Andy stated.....
But still when I check voltage on the pin itself with pos+ lead on pin and neg- lead at pack i get
.9v It should be pack voltage right?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by cableguy_hd

Glad to hear theres another NASCAR fan here....
I'm making progress but still cant wrap my head around this. OK....
Found a bad (black in color) wire from beeper to solenoid that was in flex loom... Fixed that and now when I press pedal my light comes on like Andy stated.....
But still when I check voltage on the pin itself with pos+ lead on pin and neg- lead at pack i get
.9v It should be pack voltage right?

The voltage won't be on Pin-1 until the pedal is pushed. (Plus Key being ON and F or R selected)

The same circuit that activates solenoid also powers up the controller logic.

If the pedal is not pushed (solenoid deactivated) when you read the 0.9V, it is nothing to worry about. You most likely are using a voltmeter with a high input impedance (a good quality in voltmeters) and reading some leakage current.

If the pedal is push when you read the 0.9V, I'd take a really close look at the red wire between Pin-1 and the solenoid coil terminal.

[cableguy_hd]

No pedal wasn't pushed at the.9v reading. Just got back from a quick ride around the block. Seems fine. For some reason I thought the green light stayed lit all the time unless there was a fault. Never dawned on me to press the pedal to get a reading... Learn something new everyday.thanks